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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Mine runs about 174 but idling for awhile brings it to 205 degrees. Thats when the fan clicks on and brings it to 192. Lots of snow plowing runs it from 192 to 205 due to low gear/low speed running.
 

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Here's what I do...

1) Turn the key on and allow all the relays, etc. to get set.

2) Crank the motor for a few seconds then let off.

3) Turn the key all the way off and let sit for a few seconds.

4 ) Repeat step one then two.

Mine usually starts right up if I do this. If I don't, I could crank it until the battery were dead and it wouldn't ever start. This is on a '22 with less than 1,100mi. It has done this since new.

Someone else told me it was the neoprene seals used in the fuel rail.

A dealership I called had no idea about the problem and didn't know where they'd start in recommending a fix.

Using this procedure I was able to start mine yesterday after a very cold morning. The engine temp on the display read 7 degrees and it started right up.



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This is exactly what I have to do with mine when it gets cold, it works every time so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The cooler you can get your running coolant temp, the better! JMO
Pirate
OK speaking of running cooler, I have not changed the coolant yet. I have some Polaris coolant to use when I do. But is that the best coolant to use?
What coolant do y'all recommend?

And what's the best way to get it all drained out?
Any tips would be appreciated,
M
 

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OK speaking of running cooler, I have not changed the coolant yet. I have some Polaris coolant to use when I do. But is that the best coolant to use?
What coolant do y'all recommend?

And what's the best way to get it all drained out?
Any tips would be appreciated,
M
Coolant is Coolant IMO. There's nothing performance about the "performance" stuff, just a gimmick

IMO just don't mix colors and IMO try to stick with the green stuff. Seems like the orange stuff eats head/intake gaskets..

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2021 general deluxe, 2 seat
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Here's what I do...

1) Turn the key on and allow all the relays, etc. to get set.

2) Crank the motor for a few seconds then let off.

3) Turn the key all the way off and let sit for a few seconds.

4 ) Repeat step one then two.

Mine usually starts right up if I do this. If I don't, I could crank it until the battery were dead and it wouldn't ever start. This is on a '22 with less than 1,100mi. It has done this since new.

Someone else told me it was the neoprene seals used in the fuel rail.

A dealership I called had no idea about the problem and didn't know where they'd start in recommending a fix.

Using this procedure I was able to start mine yesterday after a very cold morning. The engine temp on the display read 7 degrees and it started right up.



Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
It's done this since new and you didn't take it to the dealership to make them fix it? It's hard to imagine how a machine that new would need a valve adjustment. I'm in southern California and a cold day for me is 50 so don't have that issue. Does all you out there have in cold weather areas have this issue? I doubt that.
jsonduck
 

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Does all you out there have in cold weather areas have this issue? I doubt that.
jsonduck
No. My 22 starts the same in warm/cold weather unless I have 91 octane gas in it. Crank for about 3 seconds and it fires right up, idles normally ect...

These guys that gotta go through this "start" procedure have a fuel drain back issue I'd guess. The way it sounds anyways....

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2016 Polaris General Deluxe, 10% OEM
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Coolant is Coolant IMO. There's nothing performance about the "performance" stuff, just a gimmick

IMO just don't mix colors and IMO try to stick with the green stuff. Seems like the orange stuff eats head/intake gaskets..

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Hmmm...Engine Ice is a light blue. Maybe that's the secret to running cooler???
Pirate
 

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Or it's a gimmick that you've fallen for...
O come on now...don't cheap shot me!!
I moved to the Engine Ice when I replaced the Polaris Radiator with the Super ATV HD radiator. The Super ATV radiator is a beautiful piece of TIG welded aluminum work. It offers a third more cooling
area, that helps. Filled the coolant system with Engine Ice as it was a bit less expensive than Polaris coolant and Amazon prime had it at my door in two days and I didn't have to drive 40 miles to the dealer. The Gilomen Innovations full ECU program includes a bit of richening of the air fuel mixture and than reduces coolant temp some. I use a UTV Inc. "Fan Override" kit and have the cooling fan running from the time I leave camp until I return to camp.
Combine all these...and yeah, it runs cooler. Exactly which contributes how much, you know, I don't have a clue. None of the components was that expensive. So I went with all of them.

I've since added a MTNTK Blowhole fan. I ran the black and *********** wires forward to under the hood and connected the white wire to the UTV Inc. Fan Override relay and the black wire to my
brass ground bolt. Thus the Blowhole fan runs when the coolant fan does. Which is my choice.
Pirate
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
It's done this since new and you didn't take it to the dealership to make them fix it? It's hard to imagine how a machine that new would need a valve adjustment. I'm in southern California and a cold day for me is 50 so don't have that issue. Does all you out there have in cold weather areas have this issue? I doubt that.
jsonduck
Mine used to start just fine. Its only in the past few months it started this hard starting thing.
 

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I was hoping you'd bring all of that up....

So ok, you've done all of that. Let's say that a stock general runs 200*. I think that's a fair average...

Now your engine ice is supposed to help take out up to 50* (their claim), but lets go conservative with 10*. So you should be 190*. You've claimed numerous times on this forum that the gilomen ecu tuning is richened up and also good for about 10* cooler. So theoretically you should run 180* now. You've also added a "beautifully tig welded SATV radiatior". That's good for 26% more cooling than stock (once again their claim). So let's say 10* on that radiator. So now you should run 170*. Add in the UTV Inc fan override switch and that should get things even better for you not?

But just a day or 2 ago you said you were running 185-190* before your transmission replacement and 194* post transmission replacement....

So either you fell for several gimmicks or something isn't working in your system properly...

My stock cooling system (other than my 2nd thermostat replacement and gilomen tune) runs 185* all day long unless I'm really working the snot outta the machine, then it'll get up to 195-200.

So don't tell me I'm giving you a "cheap shot"...I'm able to connect dots here...

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
OK, so when I plow snow, I'm running at 5 mph or less, in 4X4 and low gear. The fan comes on at 205 degrees and brings it down to 192.
I take it this is bad?

Any technique's to getting all of the old coolant completely out before I add new? Where do I drain it from?
M
 

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2016 Polaris General Deluxe, 10% OEM
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Well, one cannot expect each of these to give you the full coolant temperature drop when combined. Each by themselves. Perhaps. But that was never my intent.
I didn't like rolling down a trail at 192 to 200 degrees. Why? I dunno. Just seemed hotter than necessary. My experiences the the previous 25 years had been with air cooled engines. So the RZR 800 was a big change. I installed the UTV Inc. Fan Override kit on the RZR 800. And used it all the time the machine was moving. That cut the coolant temp. How much. Sorry, I don't remember.
Early in the life of the General I added the UTV Inc. Fan Override switch and that helped by close to 10 degrees. I had done the Polaris recall to replace the Steering Column fastener and the ECU reprogramming in September 2017. I got my DuraClutch kit just about the same time and installed it. Had no problems until we got to Gold Camp, AZ in January 2018. First day out we got about 8 miles from the RV Park and experienced the Misfire Detection issue. We experienced it quite few times that day. Contacted DuraClutch and began doing some field engineering for them. They sent me different weights, different belts, then another Primary Clutch. Nothing changed. We returned to Colorado the middle of February 2018. That's when I found Terry Gilomen. I purchased a new ECU with his full program. That was the end of the Misfire Detection issue. But talking with Terry, he told me about richening the mixture a bit and that would reduce the coolant temperature by perhaps ten
degrees and provide perhaps eight or nine more horsepower. Sounded good to me!
I believe it was early in 2019 and we were in Arizona, that I read about the SuperATV HD radiator. The cost wasn't much more than a stock radiator, and being a curious Mechanical Engineer, I ordered one when we got home to Colorado. Open the box and was immediately impressed with the construction. Managing a number of major boiler repair in Coal Fired power plant boilers I've seen lots of welding. The TIG welding on this radiator was impressive. The welder a true attention to detail. Now, to be honest. It took me more than a month to figure out how to install the radiator and get it standing vertical. Today the lower bracket you get with the kit, I think, is from the drawing I shared. SuperATV's top bracket, it's better than mine. But, I had to completely drain the coolant system to make the radiator change. I had seen Engine Ice mentioned somewhere. So I thought, why not give it a shot. Bought it online at Amazon for a decent price, delivered in two days. And filled the coolant system and bled it in accordance with the Polaris instructions at the Bleed Screw. So all of this work was completed by Spring 2019 before we headed to Moab for the ROTR.

In Moab my coolant temp rand in the 175 to 187 degree range. Going up grades makes the coolant temperature rise. I have to think that's a function of the size of the coolant passages in the engine, the length of the coolant hoses between the engine and radiator and the efficiency of the water pump. Probably some of each. The coolant system operated in this temperature range until April 2022. We were at Sand Hollow. On our second day, having a great time on the sand, then heading back to camp. The right side bearing of the Idler shaft failed catastrophically, the case broke open. The break being probably 6 inches in length. The outer race of the bearing at the right side of the transmission, Idler shaft, broke into seven pieces, the ball retainer strips broke into numerous pieces and the balls were released into the transmission. So we were DONE for the trip. I ordered a Rev6Sports remanufactured transmission with lots of upgrades including the 12% gear reduction.
I only have about 350 miles on that transmission. Yes, from April 17th to September 16th the General was a hanger queen for a variety of reasons.
But getting out riding again I noted that the "normal" coolant temperature had risen to 194 degrees F. Thus far I suspect the gear reduction in the "H" range of the new transmission is the reason.
The rpm at a given speed in "H" is now the same rpm as in "L". So running the higher rpm may be the reason.

I believe what I read on Engine Ice was a 10 degree coolant temperature drop when driving. I never expected 50 degrees.
Again, making all the changes, I never expected the full advertised coolant temperature reduction with each one. Thermodynamics doesn't work that way. Some of the "upgrades" I did in my search for a cooler running engine were just curiosity. I've been retired since June 3rd, 2011. I've been a gearhead since I was a kid on the farm starting in 1967. (If I didn't want to walk a mile or more when the '51 Chevy truck quit..it was learn to fix it or walk. So I got an auto mechanics book and started learning.) Some of it was always dreaming of having a Mopar muscle car that I couldn't afford while paying for the Engineering Degree. So here I am, something gets my curiosity, I'll purchase it, install it, and see if I can get it to work. I have a good number of things in boxes that I couldn't get to work. But that's the way it goes. But it does help me answer questions here on the forum.
Perhaps this helps a bit??
Oh, and where did the Pirate handle come from. Clipped in a right and turn on a Harley, in Albuquerque, on May 23rd, 2008. Trauma to left optic nerve has left eye totally blind. Wore an eyepatch for two years. Now a laser engraved lens. Pirates often have an eyepatch over one eye. Me too. So moved from Iceman in the biking world to Pirate in the UTV world.
Pirate
 

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OK, so when I plow snow, I'm running at 5 mph or less, in 4X4 and low gear. The fan comes on at 205 degrees and brings it down to 192.
I take it this is bad?

Any technique's to getting all of the old coolant completely out before I add new? Where do I drain it from?
M
It's just warmer than some would like... some guys run those temps with no issues. Some guys feel it's to warm and could lead to premature wear... it's up to you to decide.

If you're looking for a good way to drain/fill your system, @TaterTots did a nice write up not too long ago. Look it up, it's step by step...

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So here I am, something gets my curiosity, I'll purchase it, install it, and see if I can get it to work.


Perhaps this helps a bit??
It's great that you want to try things out, but to recommend some products to others that aren't proven to help in others situations isn't good either. It's just a waste of time/money for the other person. Ow if these items made your general run significantly cooler, i could agree that your trials have done something. But it just doesnt seem like your trusls have gained you much if anything at all... That's where my issue comes in. You've tried this stuff, you've recommended this stuff to people. But in reality your machine doesn't run any cooler than a stock machine can...

Now I realize that yours isn't stock, but to recommend engine ice, utv fan override and a SATV rad to people for an over heat issue I think is a waste of money/time. These items don't seem to do anything great. Now I'm not saying their terrible or bad either. They maybe great replacement parts for guys that are looking to change coolant or guys that have a hole in their radiatior or guys that are looking to be able to control fan operation manually... but these items aren't a "over heating" fix....


Please don't take this the wrong way, you do have a ton of knowledge about stuff I have zero knowledge of and are a great person to have on this forum...

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It's done this since new and you didn't take it to the dealership to make them fix it? It's hard to imagine how a machine that new would need a valve adjustment. I'm in southern California and a cold day for me is 50 so don't have that issue. Does all you out there have in cold weather areas have this issue? I doubt that.
jsonduck
I didn't know it was an issue until the cold set in. Unfortunately that is also the same time I started a 6 week guiding period.

I couldn't be without my machine while it sat at a dealership hoping for a cure. Now that it is winter, I may certainly take it to them for repair. I may not since this issue has an easy work around.

Time will tell if it annoys me enough to deal with my lousy dealership service department or not.

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2016 Polaris General Deluxe, 10% OEM
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But really, all of the things I have done will help a General run cooler. If you're looking for a single step...
First is the Gilomen Innovations ECU program. Look at their website for a listing of the good things it will provide.
Second is the UTV Inc. Fan Override kit. Having control over the cooling fan will help your machine run cooler.
Third is Engine Ice. I'm sure it helps reduce coolant temperature some. One of my big reasons for going with it, it's not toxic. I have a pair of 15 pound rescue dogs. They don't come down to the Toybarn that often. But I do not want to lose one or both of them due to lapping up a toxic anti-freeze.
Fourth is the SuperATV HD Radiator. Looks to me like the kit has come a long way since I bought mine. If you smash a radiator, or have one that develops a leak around a hose connection. These aluminum radiators, that I know of, aren't repairable like the brass radiators in antique automobiles. The HD radiator is a about the same price as a Polaris radiator. So it's something to consider.

Of course if you have questions...don't be afraid to ask! Remember, the only dumb question is the one you don't ask!
Pirate
 

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OK, so when I plow snow, I'm running at 5 mph or less, in 4X4 and low gear. The fan comes on at 205 degrees and brings it down to 192.
I take it this is bad?

Any technique's to getting all of the old coolant completely out before I add new? Where do I drain it from?
M
Nope, not a think wrong with that. That's about how Polaris designed it to run and to meet emissions regulations. If the job gets to be larger and the temp gets up to 210-215 and fan on, the temp
doesn't come down until you lift the plow. It might we worth looking at options to help keep the temp in the Polaris range.
Pirate
 

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OK, so when I plow snow, I'm running at 5 mph or less, in 4X4 and low gear. The fan comes on at 205 degrees and brings it down to 192.
I take it this is bad?

M
Forgot to mention it...


When plowing get your speed up. 5 mph isn't enough. Get that snow flying do it lays flat, otherwise all you do is create a berm that ends up plugging the plow up.


I plow at 15-25 mph, low gear and 4x4...

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