[Rocklong]

I just emailed Stephanie at duraclutch telling her about the problems I’m having. (Same as pirate). Maybe they’ll figure it out.

 

[Pirate]

Yesterday's efforts:

Took out the first DuraClutch belt that had been squealing and slipping. Inspected and found nothing to speak of. So took some 150 grit Emery Paper and just roughed up the contact faces.

Blew the dust out of the clutches. Took exactly one minute. So not that much.

Reinstalled the belt and closed up the CVT.

Did the Box Canyon trail again today. Pretty much a blue trail the way we did it.

Drove the first 13 mile in silence, no squealing no hearing the belt slip, no check engine light.

Stopped to wait for others, stepped on the gas and a long squeal...dang

Not a whole lot further along and the machine goes into limp mode. So stop, turn the key "OFF", then restart the engine and take off, its out of limp mode. 3/10 ths of a mile later the check engine light goes out.

Now a note here, we rode 49 miles today. The machine went into limp mode four times. Not one time did it make sense. Wasn't into the gas pedal to get over and obstacle, not climbing a steep hill. All four times just rolling along and bang, it goes into limp mode. All four times just stop turn the engine off, restart and take off...its out of limp mode. In each of the four occasions, in 3/10 ths of a mile the check engine light went out.

All through the ride I could hear the belt slipping and knew it was, cuz there certainly wasn't 100 hp under the gas pedal.

Packing up tomorrow and headed home to Colorado. Will see what DuraClutch proposes and start in from there.

More to come,

Pirate

 

[Rocklong]

Mine alway does this when I’m coasting along to a corner with very light throttle. I hear a squealing noise until after the upshift then it goes away. I have never smelt burnt belt or even looked at the belt since the clutches where installed. I just figured it was the sound of the clutches and it could very well be. I emailed Stephanie yesterday about the problem and she forwarded my email to the owner of duraclutch and said they have had this complaint from others also.

 

[Pirate]

Stephanie tells me they have two clutches back from customers and are using them in their investigation.

Mitchell, the owner is a retired Polaris Engineer and uses his contacts a Polaris. I'm not sure who Tim is, but he and Mitchell are working on the issue.

As a Mechanical Engineer, I suspect this is not a single "problem" issue. Thoughts:

It might have to do with the Primary Clutch weights,

And they interact with the clutch packs that make the DuraClutch work?

What impact might the spring in the Primary clutch and/or the spring in the Secondary clutch have?

Is there something about the slightly shorter belt? And perhaps the manufacturer of the belt?

Is there something in the Recall reprogramming of the ECU that has created the misfire code and limp mode.

and lastly, I believe this DuraClutch issue is specific to the General.

I hope to hear from Stephanie this coming week and will share all I learn.

Pirate

 

[Rocklong]

A big chunk broke out of my belt today and left me on the side of the road. Not abusing it at all something isn’t right. I know they will make it right not to worried.

 

[Rocklong]

Belt

Here’s pics of the belt.

 

[Rocklong]

Talked to Todd at hunterworks and Stephanie at duraclutch today. Both great companies to deal with. Not only are they sending me a new belt they are sending all new clutches also. Great customer service!!!

 

[Pirate]

Rocklong,

The new clutches you're getting are probably more related to the recent belt slippage issues that your particular issue.

I've done that to a belt in my RZR 800. I always stuffed a clean micro fiber cloth in the CVT cooling air exhaust before I did a good washing of the engine compartment.

One time I forgot to pull the cloth out, and in about 30 minutes I failed a belt just as you have...the belt got too hot!!

I'd check your cooling air intakes and outlets and make sure there is no blockage.

And perhaps think about how you were driving when it happened, and see if that leads to a reason for excessive heat. I installed a Team Alba temperature gauge in the CVT of my RZR 800,
its incredible how fast the belt can get hot and how difficult it is to drive so that the belt doesn't get too hot.

Just thoughts,

Pirate

 

[Rocklong]

I’m to scared to even know how hot the belts get. Haha

 

[Pirate]

You would be amazed. I was sorta depressed after I put the temp gauge in. I'll be danged if I could keep it out of the red...even with a blow hole fan!

So yes, its scary how hot the belt was for the 7 riding seasons prior....

Pirate

 

[ZacCatDaddy]

Not sure its a DuraClutch issue. I got to thinking about it and this past Summer we had the recall to reprogram the ECU...and what was it for...a misfire and injectors continuing to feed fuel to misfiring cylinder and creating a fire hazard in the exhaust system.

And that got done a couple of months before we could get our DuraClutch set-ups.

Been rolling things around in my mind all day out on the trail...the last two days.

So first I got a check engine light...and that led to code 65590...which on second re-start...a couple of miles headed back to camp...it went out and machine ran just fine.

Removed the belt....maybe a couple of teeth cut a bit. So changed out. Did away with slight chip on pull from start.

Next day, no noise, but right out of nowhere the check engine light is back. So pulled off the trail took about a 20 minute lunch break, then back on the trail. Just a few minutes later the check engine light went out an all was good.

Today, a lot of rough terrain. Kept it in "L" and found that I could easily roll along at up to 17 MPH in "L" without feeling like I needed to be in "H". Then coming out shifted to "H" and just let it roll. No "tromp on the gas pedal". Just rolling along on and off the gas as needed. No problems at all! Did hear the "chirp" twice but was it the belt slipping? I wouldn't think so from the terrain we were in!!

So are we having a problem that Polaris introduced with the reprogramming of the ECU? Could it be that in a particular engine braking situation a cylinder or both, misfires and that is enough to trip the 65590 engine code?

And my big wonder...what does it take to reset the 65590 code so we're not stuck in limp mode?

How long does it stay in "alarm"?

What is done to get the check engine light to go out and the machine return to running normally?

Hmmmm....

Pirate

I just threw this code 7655901. The G is bone stock. It was this first ride after having the recall work done (steering shaft, turf mode relocate). They didn’t say anything about reflashing my ECU. They don’t open until tomorrow so I can’t ask until then.

Also how did you clear the code?

 

[duberz]

Got those same codes when I was running gates belts. Changed out to a oem and problem solved

 

[ZacCatDaddy]

I checked the belt. There is a small wear mark on it. I cleared the check engine light by driving in LOW at 4-5k rpm. Then rode it around for a bit, no issues. Drove it on the road wide open sounded fine, but it’s when I let off the throttle that it throws the code. And it sounds like it’s only firing on one cylinder? Any suggestions beside a belt? It’s on order.

 

[ZacCatDaddy]

Sorry I forgot to post the picture in the last post.

 

[Paul H]

I’m still getting the codes at speeds over 60km/h. No issues at lower speeds. I’m going to give this a try. I figure I don’t have anything else to lose.

GILOMEN INNOVATIONS - Boat | Motor | Snowmobile | ATV | Polaris | Seadoo | Yamaha | Skidoo | Repair | Gilomen Innovations | Service | Shop | Northfield Minnesota 55057

https://youtu.be/lEWmjpfRAlA

 

[Johnny 7]

Paul
Did you check to see the cost of it?
What happens if down the road your dealer needs to do some change again to the computer, will that screw up this flash?

 

[Paul H]

Paul
Did you check to see the cost of it?
What happens if down the road your dealer needs to do some change again to the computer, will that screw up this flash?

I'm well out of warranty, so unless Polaris is coming out with a new flash to cure the misfire codes, my General won't be going back to the dealer anytime soon.

Here's the link to pricing.

1000 General - GILOMEN INNOVATIONS

With the US/CAD exchange and shipping, it's going to run me around $600. I'd like to see a cheaper fix, but as it stands, I can't get a good day of riding so it's better for me to pay this then have the General sitting in the garage.

 

[ZacCatDaddy]

Paul has yours been in for recall work? Do you know if they reflashed your ECU? I think there was a recall due to injectors staying open/possible fire hazard.

 

[Paul H]

Paul has yours been in for recall work? Do you know if they reflashed your ECU? I think there was a recall due to injectors staying open/possible fire hazard.

Yes, mine had the re-flash. It wasn't used much since the re-flash, approximately 100kms (60 miles), so I'm really leaning more towards the idea that this is the cause. I've removed my secondary and my primary. Nothing looks out of sorts there and the belt(s) seem fine.

 

[anarchyxf36]

Paul i can honestly say that just because the belt "seems fine" doesn't mean it actually is. It could be something as dumb as a slight deviation in the belt that's causing an abnormal vibration that the clutch sensors are picking up on. Polaris sensors for the belts on there machines i've learned are more picky and tempermental then a chick with PMS and a hunger craving...

EDIT : Nvm, just realized how long ago this post was... XD