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Discussion starter · #82 ·
My screen goes black also once I click on the image and go back. I'm on my IPad if that makes a difference?
Mine does the same thing. Sometimes if I wait just a bit when i go back it won't do it. Think it's an apple issue. Doesn't do it on a PC.
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·

Philbricks just a note. I put some Black RTV silicone around the hole where the 90's are to keep water from running down the backside of the heater. Also on the mounting screws I put silicone and stainless fender washers to seal and spread the load on the plastic. Might help. :)
Looks good!
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
For some reason I can't view the pics. Says "invalid attachment". I'm also thinking of getting the heater kit before next winter.
What pics? Heater install? If you want what I have PM me and I'll send you anything I have. Old pics will go away because we can only down load so many pics. I can email lots more than I can put on here one at a time. Also I can email you a pdf on the heater install instructions which shows how to take the dash apart even if your not installing the heater. :smile2:
 
My dealer installed heater, front tip out window glass, rear window, roof, and is going to install upper doors when they come for $380 labor I figured I couldn't go wrong at that price.
I was going to have my dealer install mine but I enjoy working on my ride so I did it myself and after I saws the crappy job they did on the "setup" I paid for I am glad I did it myself!!!
 
Yea I understand that. I usually like to do things myself and not worry if it's done right too but there's plenty of other things I want to do to it already. Where the back plastic bolts to the tailgate I noticed a gap in one corner so I took the torques bolts out to look at it and noticed they over tightened the corner bolt and broke the plastic the bolt fastens too.
 
The "instructions" became "guidelines" on step 2. Polaris says there are 5 push pins securing the upper dash panel. Counting the 2 that go through the front fender/hood assy and the upper dash there are 7. Yay Polaris. :rolleyes::rolleyes:

Also, when you "remove six screws and four push pins securing main dash panel" I suggest you also remove two torx screws securing the front fender in each door jamb. It helps to get the dash panel out from behind them.

More to follow as I progress...
 
My "luck" has not let me down (sarcasm). The inner-most bolt that goes through the firewall wasn't tightening down all the way...and it wouldn't come back out. The dealer tech might have called it "good enough" but I couldn't.
Had to cut the head off the bolt with a Dremel and pull the core assembly back out. Turns out that nutsert wasn't seated well so it was just spinning in the case. The heat from nipping the edges off the head of the bolt got the bolt stuck in there too. Disassembled the core assy to get some Vise-grips on the nutsert and the remains of the bolt to get it out. Kept the Vise-grips on the insert and used another bolt to compress it more for a good seat. All good and got it mostly reinstalled. I'll hit the hardware store for another bolt tomorrow.

I made a couple changes along the way too.

-I installed 1.5" fender washers and 1.5" rubber washers on those 3 firewall bolts. I'm not going back to a leaky firewall like my Rzr had.

-I personally don't like the limited range of motion of the rectangular defrost vents or the fact that they don't completely close up to keep dust/dirt/crap out of there. I made an executive decision and installed the round lower vents in the upper dash instead. My Rzr had these style in the Firestorm heater and they worked very well. I'll order 2 more round vents (hopefully from MCC for half what Polaris will want) and put them in the lower (center console) holes. It occurred to me too late that I could've just used the rectangular vents down there but I had already drilled the holes. Oh well.

Big thanks to my hottie co-pilot for helping and putting up with my colorful language today. :grin2:


Plan is to finish up tomorrow after getting one new bolt and (hopefully) some 45° fittings for the hoses.
 
More progress today but it's not complete. Couldn't source 45° fittings without using 2 fittings each. More fittings = more chances for leaks so I went with 90° like Alaskan suggested.
I'm in a pretty good sized city but couldn't find anybody that had a vent similar to the round ones in the kit. Hoping I can save about 50% and order straight from MCC rather than Polaris.

More observations:
-the "instructions" give a specific torque value for the hose clamps...they're spring clamps! We have zero control over the amount of torque they apply.

-I hate spring clamps in tight spaces...and I have the special pliers made just for them.

-they tell you to clamp off the radiator hoses to cut and install the tee fittings. On the lower hose this is do-able but it leaves a crappy cut on the hose. On the upper hose the cut is to be placed practically in the center of the machine above the winch. Good luck getting 2 sets of pinch off pliers, a knife and both hands in there. I yanked that whole hose out and assembled it on the workbench.

-multiple test-fittings of that hose after assembly (prior to installing the clamps) showed me that the tee was touching the winch contactor bracket and the hose itself was going to rub on the winch bracket. I wrapped a piece of scrap clear hose around it to protect it from chafing. I used clear so I could spot any leaks in the tee junction (and because that's what I had laying around).

-comparing the amount of mud/rocks/debris collected around the suspension and wheelwell to the lack of such behind the Grizzz-Tek radiator guards tells me they were a smart purchase. Good job Randy!

-the hottie took her time with the Dremel and a sander making sure the dash vents fit just right. She reported back that the indentations cast into the backside of the dash for the vents are indeed the correct size. Kudos Polaris (see, I'm not ALWAYS bashing them).

-duct work and reassembly tomorrow. I have another major addition that I'm hoping will be delivered by Thanksgiving. ;)
 
heater hose connections

I assume the factory Polaris heater tells you to tap into the upper and lower radiator hoses? Some aftermarket heaters say this is not a good way to do it and one hose for sure needs to come from the engine. What are your thoughts for the best coolant flow and coolant temp?
 
I found it easier to pull the lower hose and put a milk jug underneath. This way you can make all your cuts in the hoses without spilling any coolant. I also jacked up the front of the machine about a foot. There will only be about 1/2 gallon of coolant. Didn't spill one drop!
 

Attachments

I assume the factory Polaris heater tells you to tap into the upper and lower radiator hoses? Some aftermarket heaters say this is not a good way to do it and one hose for sure needs to come from the engine. What are your thoughts for the best coolant flow and coolant temp?
Six of one, half dozen the other. Either way you still have a hose running from the engine up to the heater core. Unless they are using an insulated hose from the engine up their system is going to lose some temp along the way same as any other system. I will give Polaris (or MCC the maker of the heater kit) credit for adding another thermostat to the system though. This forces all the coolant through the heater core until the coolant temp reaches 195*. The aftermarket heater in my Rzr didn't have this and took longer to get heat into the cab.
 
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