Polaris General Forum banner
21 - 25 of 25 Posts
Update on the general/rzr suspension swap... the front A-arms from a rzr xp 1k 64" or a turbo xp 64" machine will fit the general non-xp. The mounting points to the frame tabs are the same. The rzr A-arms have larger ball joints therefore you will need the carriers, hubs, calipers, shocks, and tie rods. Doing this swap will void the factory sway bar from working. It will have to be removed. On the rear there are 4 options that I've found ... (Option 1)... it will require general xp 64" rear A-arms and moving one of the inside frame mounting tabs on the general or (Option 2)... modifying a set of the general xp rear A-arms to fit the mounting tabs on the general non-xp or (Option 3)... there is a company that builds a weld-in kit for a trailing arm set up from a rzr xp or (Option 4 "easiest")... run 2 inch spacers on the rear which I DO NOT recommend. Some individuals will say this 4" wider swap isn't worth the trouble or too expensive. This swap is definitely cheaper than taking a loss on selling your general non-xp and puchasing a new general xp If you shop around for the parts. There is a ton of the rzr xp and turbo xp parts on the used market. This swap is the same on a rzr 900s or rzr 1000s because the suspensions on the general 1000 non-xp, 900s, and 1000s are the same. In my experience in the southeastern trails and mountains a 64-68 inch machine is a great "middle of the spectrum" width for getting around the trails and being very stable. There's not much information on this subject so I hope this helps. I will have a video on our YouTube channel when I get this swap completed. (General XP front A-arms are not the same width mounting point to the frame as the non-xp general therefore this is the reason for getting rzr xp A-arms)
 
Update on the general/rzr suspension swap... the front A-arms from a rzr xp 1k 64" or a turbo xp 64" machine will fit the general non-xp. The mounting points to the frame tabs are the same. The rzr A-arms have larger ball joints therefore you will need the carriers, hubs, calipers, shocks, and tie rods. Doing this swap will void the factory sway bar from working. It will have to be removed. On the rear there are 4 options that I've found ... (Option 1)... it will require general xp 64" rear A-arms and moving one of the inside frame mounting tabs on the general or (Option 2)... modifying a set of the general xp rear A-arms to fit the mounting tabs on the general non-xp or (Option 3)... there is a company that builds a weld-in kit for a trailing arm set up from a rzr xp or (Option 4 "easiest")... run 2 inch spacers on the rear which I DO NOT recommend. Some individuals will say this 4" wider swap isn't worth the trouble or too expensive. This swap is definitely cheaper than taking a loss on selling your general non-xp and puchasing a new general xp If you shop around for the parts. There is a ton of the rzr xp and turbo xp parts on the used market. This swap is the same on a rzr 900s or rzr 1000s because the suspensions on the general 1000 non-xp, 900s, and 1000s are the same. In my experience in the southeastern trails and mountains a 64-68 inch machine is a great "middle of the spectrum" width for getting around the trails and being very stable. There's not much information on this subject so I hope this helps. I will have a video on our YouTube channel when I get this swap completed. (General XP front A-arms are not the same width mounting point to the frame as the non-xp general therefore this is the reason for getting rzr xp A-arms)
Are you tuning the shocks to your vehicle?
 
Hi Melanie, did you ever do a suspension swap. I have a 20' general that I'm starting a 64" suspension swap on. I'm in Alabama if that's comparable to your terrain. I want more suspension travel and a better ride. Any help is appreciated.
Sorry new to the thread and also very interested in this if anything‘s been done and responses on how it worked I’d sure appreciate it heads up on how and what you did thank you
 
I have been hearing lots of stuff about trailing arms.

they have their place. Polaris chose a-arms on the rzr "S" and the General (and xp) for a reason.

Trailing arms soften the ride a little, and give you a little more control, in a racing situation, or really fast trails. Their downsides. The radius rods are exposed to trails debris (rocks....), the trailing arms themselves are exposed to ruts rocks stumps etc, and I have experienced both situations where the radius rods hang up on rocks (bent one on a brand new rzr xp) and in a really bad situation on the same xp rzr, had the right side trailing arm get hung on a rut which lifted that wheel up just enough to give the other wheel traction and "rear steer" the machine (sorta like a zero turn mower), and this was on a hillside trail where turning was unacceptable and frankly dangerous. That was in fact a dangerous situation when it steered itself to the cliff side which was obviously less than confidence inspiring. Later in the day I drove a General XP up the same trail and it was trouble free, a little more confident in the ruts. It was effortless other than a little bit of a rougher ride.

--but--when we put the xp out in the faster trails, dunes more or less, the general couldn't touch it. But there was a weight difference too.

also on the trailing arm setup, the tires tend to "toe" and they also tend to camber quite a bit during suspension travel which can affect how it handles in the more technical typical trails that we have here. In the dunes and in a more racy situation, that stuff is of little issue. Pro R addressed the toe issue with a toe link that runs inside the trailing arm.

Polaris tested this stuff, and that's why the trail S and rzr S all have a-arm suspension (they are designed for trail riding) where the pro r, pro xp, turbo xp and xp 1000, are all trailing arm style-they're more "racing" thatn trail riding, although it seems people often use them on the trails here.
 
21 - 25 of 25 Posts