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Thanks for the suggestion Spggy. I may try that when the warranty runs out.

I had thought about just filling it up with good ole 140W gear lube. But then I read somewhere that the Hilliard diff uses very thin, low viscosity oil to ensure that the sprags release the instant that the rear wheels stop slipping. If the front clutch should remain stuck in the engaged mode, the front wheels will attempt to back drive the transmission through the front diff and prop shaft when the back wheels regain traction. The resulting stresses can break stuff, like the sprag cage in the front diff I would imagine.
 
Spggy,

Got any idea how much of that tube they put in the diff?

If I recall correctly, it only takes about 14 oz of lube. So too much and you have to get the Passenger side a couple of feet in the air or it all runs out the fill plug hole.

Thanks,

Pirate
Checked with my service guy (not a Polaris outfit). The Gear Oil instructions state to add 2.5 fl. oz of Gear Oil treatment per 16 fl. Oz. of oil. So as the Hilliard diff requires 8.5 oz of oil it only needs 1 to 1.3 oz of this Gear Oil.
They said they did not have to take any diff oil out to do this.
 
Checked with my service guy (not a Polaris outfit). The Gear Oil instructions state to add 2.5 fl. oz of Gear Oil treatment per 16 fl. Oz. of oil. So as the Hilliard diff requires 8.5 oz of oil it only needs 1 to 1.3 oz of this Gear Oil.
They said they did not have to take any diff oil out to do this.
Went to an Off Road Expo in Phoenix today. A company called B-L Tech was selling an improved Alignment Bushing for the Hilliard diff., called a Hub Hornet. $199.
The manufacturer website is HubHelper and dealer is B-L Tech Hub Hornet. Has anyone looked at these or installed one?
Seems like a "good thing" to me.

Polaris front differential aerospace cantilevered bushing drive-hub alignment product. Lifetime warranty. Made in the U.S.A.

The degenerative process that leads to intermittent front drive, broken roller cages, bent & broken armature plates, and complete front differential failure starts with the drive hub bushings. Due to their design, the center drive hub bushing sees very little lubrication under use and tends to wear quickly. When it wears, internal parts start to come in contact with each other and see loads they were never designed for. Designed to work with heavy duty roller cages, armature plates and bearing kits for a completely bulletproof Polaris front differential. Keep everything running as it should in your Polaris front differential and order the B-L Tech Hub Hornet today.

Does your Polaris© front differential;
Rattle like a can full of marbles ?
Make loud growling, whining and grinding sounds ?
Fail to reliably shift into and out of 4WD, when selected ?
Shift into 4WD when 4WD is not selected ?
Have more than 1/16 inch play at the inner CV joints ?
Leak oil from the axle seals ? and

If you shake one front CV does the other side shake also ?


Optimum Offroad
optimumoffroad.com
6969 Speedway Blvd. Suite 106
Las Vegas, Nevada 89115
​702-724-1051
 

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Anyone know if the propshaft part numbers given in this thread is also the correct part numbers for the '16?

When I search those part numbers it says fits '17 and '18 but no mention of '16.
1333918
1333919
1333927

I just purchased a used '16 with only 321 miles and it grinds like marbles in the front end. Don't know if the
service bulletin would apply to a second owner or not. I would be willing to purchase the parts and install myself
to make this thing right.

Thanks for any info.
 
Just had the new shaft with the CV joints installed (under warranty). Polaris had replaced the original drive shaft last year with a different shaft that was either clocked differently or different design (which ever). The 'can of marbles' noise was greatly reduced but not eliminated. When I brought it in for the other fixes doors, stickers, steering etc. I asked them if they could replace the drive shaft with the most current shaft (CV). Honestly I didn't think that they would but this is has been a very good dealer to work with. Anyway, got it home and took a quick spin and there is no noise and the drive train is noticeably smoother. Also, I am very pleased with the door fix. doors close with little effort and the new look is good.
 
Anybody who had the prop shaft recall done just get the front shaft replaced? my dealer told me today they only replace the front shaft not rear or carrier?
 
I have a 2018 Polaris RZR XP1000 Trail and Rock Edition. It has the same problem with the propeller shaft, so replacing with a 2018 shaft is not going to correct the problem. The CV joint is weak and will inevitably fail. It is a severely poor design to have the CV buckle in such a high torque operational point on the machine. I ended up replacing the stock shaft with a one piece rcv shaft. It's quite pricey, but I rock crawl and race; so I can't afford a failure on in the field. If it fails on the trail or track, you can be dead in the water. Plus, it can force other catastrophic failures concurrently in conjunction with the shaft. Here is where I got mine. https://www.sidebysidestuff.com/rcv-performance-ultimate-prop-shaft-polaris-rzr-xp-4-1000.html
 
Dealer ordered parts for our 2016 today. Looking forward to hearing something other than the front
diff when riding....

A big thanks to the guys on the forum for the heads up and service advisory numbers.
 
Spggy,

A question...read your post above again....

Please explain the two sentences below that I copied out of your last response.

Fail to reliably shift into and out of 4WD, when selected ?

Shift into 4WD when 4WD is not selected ?

Its just me wanting to make sure you understand how the Polaris "On Demand" AWD works.

Thanks,

Pirate
 
Spggy,

A question...read your post above again....

Please explain the two sentences below that I copied out of your last response.

Fail to reliably shift into and out of 4WD, when selected ?

Shift into 4WD when 4WD is not selected ?

Its just me wanting to make sure you understand how the Polaris "On Demand" AWD works.

Thanks,

Pirate
Pirate.
Those are not my words, they are from the writeup by Optimum Offroad.
I understand your point that how they describe the 4WD operation is not how the On Demand 4WD works.

Their main point though is that they have an improved Hub Bushing over the stock version.
My reason for posting all this is whether anyone has looked into this Hub Bushing and/or had any issues with the stock version.
 
Spggy,

Thanks for the update.

So the new hubs have much better splines for the axles?

Talking with Jeff at JJandA Racing Products...who does the blueprinting and other upgrades to the Hilliard Diff...he sees the major problem being the splines wearing and the axles getting loose.

Thanks,

Pirate
 
This getting a bit beyond my pay grade for technical mechanical issues!

But if you go to HubHelper the manufucturer sight they say this:

"The B-L Tech Hub Hornet, Output Hub upgrade (see Figures 2 and 3) corrects the problems associated with a worn-out, wobbling drive hub assembly. We replace the low tolerance, poor-wearing OEM center bushing with our precision, hardened, American-made, patent-pending retrofit bearing-and-shaft assembly."

The demo they showed me at the Phoenix Show certainly had the Stock hub bushing (presumably a new one) as having a lot of play in it compared the solid Hornet version.
 
Picked up our General from the dealer this morning. Replaced both front and rear shafts.
Quieter and much smoother now.

Thanks again to you guys on the forum for posting the service advisory number and your
dealer experiences.

Just a heads up for anyone with a '16 or '17 needing this service. The service advisory expires this November
of '18. Sorry I don't remember the day but think it was the 30th. If you need it, get to your dealer now.
 
I have a 2018 G4 with 1350 trouble free miles. I know the 2018 has the updated CV/U-joint combo. However, I'm hearing impaired but I can hear a rattle in the cab while moving. My wife hears it as well but we can't pinpoint where its coming from. She thinks it's just the plastics and cage rattling and she's probably right. We have full cab enclosure with heat and Probox top. We are currently running Camso tracks but I can also hear it with tires. I've gone thru everything inside and under dash looking for something loose and have found nothing.

Before I look further, I'd like to know from those of you who had the driveline/front diff rattle, at what speeds did it occur? Did it occur in 4wd only or was it constant no matter what mode you were in? Was it real loud so that it's very obviously a problem? Any info describing the noise with be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
ProstarMaine,

It might be the front differential. The part that can be noisy is the rollers in the cage that is mounted over the exterior of the Output Hubs. They can be quite loose as your rollers are between the Output Hubs...a good finish parts, the rollers, good finished parts and the interior of the ring gear...a cast and only partially machined part...so the clearance can be as much as 0.035" to 0.040". Which can be very noisy.

JJandA Racing Products provides a blueprinting that brings that clearance down to 0.0005", yup a half a thousandth clearance. Then its quiet. I've had mine done for the RZR 800 an the General. Never know when the front differential locks up and unlocks. Nice for $99

For me, its also been loose front A-arm fasteners loose. Don't ask me how they got loose...but gads what a rattle. Did some digging and found that Nylock nuts should only be used once, maybe twice. OK, new fasteners on both front sets...bolts, washers, Nylok nuts...and I put blue Loctite paste on all threads. That was that noise. But some of it may have been the Passenger front wheel bearing going. Was going to try out my new Two Guys Hobby bearing greaser...but turned out I couldn't get the hub off...and when I did...the bearing came apart...balls rolling everywhere. As yours is a 2018, before you buy a bearing greaser...pull one and see if it has a slot in the center of the inner race that will take grease. The new bearings have a groove, but it doesn't go all the way through the inner race...so no greasing. Not sure if that's good or bad.

You might look at the Carrier bearing between the driveshafts and make sure it is a straight a line as possible between the CV joint and the shaft splined end through the carrier bearing.

You might inspect the brake pads. I've recently heard of folks that pop up a small rock, it gets inside one of the holes in the rotor, scars the brake pad or gets shoved into the brake pad. And makes noise.

There's a few things to check...

Pirate
 
Thanks Pirate, these are things I will keep on file for the next time. Fortunately for me, the nosie turn out to be the plastic windshield wiper cover rattling on the windshield frame. I trimmed the edge down slightly to clear the windshield frame and the noise stopped. I wish everything was this simple!
 
Not getting my hopes up, but would love to see a recall at some point...Fingers crossed....What I'm looking forward to is people getting a 2018 General and joining the forum so we can get there perspective on the front end noise...If on the 2018 models they do not have the noise I will then go back to my dealership to get mine swapped out..
My 2019 has the front end noise also. Performance is not affected. But the noise is a nuisance.
 
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