Wheel bearing greasers
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3,331 Posts
I bought one off eBay for $17.50, and it works great. You definitely want to get one with the hole in the middle, so you don't have to take everything apart. Makes it a pretty quick job.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-SPORTSMAN-RZR-GENERAL-ACE-AXLE-IN-WHEEL-BEARING-GREASER-TOOL-44MM-GREASE/132266804770?hash=item1ecbb74622
https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-SPORTSMAN-RZR-GENERAL-ACE-AXLE-IN-WHEEL-BEARING-GREASER-TOOL-44MM-GREASE/132266804770?hash=item1ecbb74622
I have the Tiger Tool and love it.
All 4 wheel bearings on the General are 44mm.
Its unbelievable how little grease is in a brand new Polaris bearing. I just installed new Polaris bearings
in Dads RZR. Decided to add a little grease since I already had the Tiger Tool greaser.
The new bearings held 15 pumps of grease straight out of the plastic package. My General bearings held
around 20 pumps each at 300 miles.
You just want to add grease until you first see and hear the grease exiting the bearing. Do not force more grease
after the absolute first sign of being filled. Its easy to blow the seals if forcing too much grease.
All 4 wheel bearings on the General are 44mm.
Its unbelievable how little grease is in a brand new Polaris bearing. I just installed new Polaris bearings
in Dads RZR. Decided to add a little grease since I already had the Tiger Tool greaser.
The new bearings held 15 pumps of grease straight out of the plastic package. My General bearings held
around 20 pumps each at 300 miles.
You just want to add grease until you first see and hear the grease exiting the bearing. Do not force more grease
after the absolute first sign of being filled. Its easy to blow the seals if forcing too much grease.
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279 Posts
Wow MMX, nice. That is a whole lot less expensive than Two Guys and looks like the o-rings do the job just fine at directing the grease into the split race. My only question is why the person making them is just doing this as a charitable hobby, they can't be making any money charging $17.50 and free shipping.
I kinda hate to say this but I'm going to...
I look for Polaris to change their bearing design to eliminate the hollow groove in the
center of the bearings. They sell a ton of replacement bearings and these new greasers
will certainly be cutting down on their sales. Look for a new "improved" completely sealed
bearing coming your way in the near future.
I look for Polaris to change their bearing design to eliminate the hollow groove in the
center of the bearings. They sell a ton of replacement bearings and these new greasers
will certainly be cutting down on their sales. Look for a new "improved" completely sealed
bearing coming your way in the near future.
Joined
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3,331 Posts
It worked very well. My machine had 720 miles on it, when I used that greaser. Took 20-21 pumps per bearing, which has been in line with others I've read about. It was $17.50 well spent. I think that guy has sold hundreds of those things, so surely he's made a profit.
I bought the 44 mm Wheel Bearing Greaser from Havoc. It was $49.00 so I figure it has to be the best one .. right. I also bought a Lincoln Pneumatic Grease Gun cuz pumping a Grease Gun 80 plus times sounded a lot like work. Thats my story, so I'm gunna tell the way I want to.
I bought the Holy greaser. I got the greaser and the tool to hold the spindle while you break the axle nut loose. $40 shipped I think.... Haven't used it yet. Machine just got it's 25 hr service. I'll have to try it out soon.
ETA: double checked PayPal. $37 for the Holy Greaser and spindle tool shipped.
ETA: double checked PayPal. $37 for the Holy Greaser and spindle tool shipped.
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279 Posts
A bit off topic but can’t resist. I’ve got a hand pump Lincoln grease gun which works about as good as any... when I bought the front end loader backhoe I figured I better get a pneumatic one considering the 80 zerk fittings. Well I was only able to get the first tube to feed grease and I’ve tried every trick in the book and wasted about 5 tubes of grease... so Stufarmer, if you want a 2nd Lincoln pneumatic fun for free just tell me which direction I should throw this one, it’s yours
. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
WoWoWoWoWo !! Just when I thought I had that trick licked ..A bit off topic but can’t resist. I’ve got a hand pump Lincoln grease gun which works about as good as any... when I bought the front end loader backhoe I figured I better get a pneumatic one considering the 80 zerk fittings. Well I was only able to get the first tube to feed grease and I’ve tried every trick in the book and wasted about 5 tubes of grease... so Stufarmer, if you want a 2nd Lincoln pneumatic fun for free just tell me which direction I should throw this one, it’s yours.
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13 Posts
I bought one on Ebay, very similar to MMX. Remove axle nut/washers and pull hub off. Grease away. I had one ride prior to greasing (FL = water) and water shot out of the bearings and got me right in the eye.
Moral of the story - these bearings come very dry and they sell safety goggles for a reason!
Moral of the story - these bearings come very dry and they sell safety goggles for a reason!
Well guys...I got two questions and some information to share...
Purchased a Two Guys Hobby wheel greasing tool. Arrived here last Friday. Just looking, a very nice piece of work!!
Got started on Saturday. Took the axle nut off the Driver front axle, took the lower A-arm frame bolts out, pulled the A-arm out of the frame tabs and pulled the axle.
Then pulled the Hub and set it aside. Piece of cake!
Primed the tool so I would know how many pumps it took to fill the bearing. Inserted it in the Bearing Carrier, put the back on, spun the wing nut snug and put 17 pumps of grease in the bearing.
Reassembled in reverse order and back together.
Moved to the Passenger front. Took the axle nut off. Removed the bolts from the lower A-arm and removed the axle. And then it started.
I simply could not get the Hub to come out of the bearing. It would wobble a bit...but would not move. OK. So tried some blaster hoping it would free things up a bit. Nope.
So put the Lower A-arm back in place and put the bolts in.
Got an impact socket as close to the ID of the bearing as possible and a 5" extension. put that in the bearing and started tapping on the extension...not moving an iota!! So hit it a little harder, nope not moving.
So moved the Bearing Carrier/Hub assembly to the hydraulic press. Nope, no way to set it up that wouldn't damage something. So back in the frame and whacked it harder. Finally came out...when the bearing came apart. The inner half of the inner race was on the Hub. The rest of the internals fell out...all over the floor.
Every effort to get the bearing out of the Bearing Carrier was a flop too!
So I finally used a burr to cut through the inner race on the Hub until it came off.
Used the same burr to cut through the outer race until it too relaxed from the interference fit and came out.
So here's the question...Should the Hub slide in and out of the bearing, mounted in the Bearing Carrier, easily? The Driver side did.
The axle splines go through the Hub and the 180 ft-lbs torque on the axle nut, the two slightly domed washers, and the back of the bearing inner race...the Hub turns with the axle and the wheel turns with the Hub.
So does that squeeze mean that the bearing inner race turns with the Hub? And thus having a few thousandths clearance between the OD of the Hub and the interior of the bearing correct? That after assembly the two will not rotate separately?
Lastly, the information. The wheel bearing is Polaris PN 3514822 on all four corners. My original bearing has a second number on it 0531548 and it has two separate inner races with the gap for greasing.
My new bearing is Polaris PN 3514822 and that is engraved on the bearing. But the other number is 0531812 and this bearing has a single inner race. it has a groove in the center. But if they are two pieces, its pressed together tightly enough that there is not an open groove for grease. Will try greasing it after assembly...but I don't think it will take a bit.
May change the idea of periodically greasing the bearings if they are truly a "sealed bearing" now.
Just lots of thoughts, questions and info...
Pirate
Purchased a Two Guys Hobby wheel greasing tool. Arrived here last Friday. Just looking, a very nice piece of work!!
Got started on Saturday. Took the axle nut off the Driver front axle, took the lower A-arm frame bolts out, pulled the A-arm out of the frame tabs and pulled the axle.
Then pulled the Hub and set it aside. Piece of cake!
Primed the tool so I would know how many pumps it took to fill the bearing. Inserted it in the Bearing Carrier, put the back on, spun the wing nut snug and put 17 pumps of grease in the bearing.
Reassembled in reverse order and back together.
Moved to the Passenger front. Took the axle nut off. Removed the bolts from the lower A-arm and removed the axle. And then it started.
I simply could not get the Hub to come out of the bearing. It would wobble a bit...but would not move. OK. So tried some blaster hoping it would free things up a bit. Nope.
So put the Lower A-arm back in place and put the bolts in.
Got an impact socket as close to the ID of the bearing as possible and a 5" extension. put that in the bearing and started tapping on the extension...not moving an iota!! So hit it a little harder, nope not moving.
So moved the Bearing Carrier/Hub assembly to the hydraulic press. Nope, no way to set it up that wouldn't damage something. So back in the frame and whacked it harder. Finally came out...when the bearing came apart. The inner half of the inner race was on the Hub. The rest of the internals fell out...all over the floor.
Every effort to get the bearing out of the Bearing Carrier was a flop too!
So I finally used a burr to cut through the inner race on the Hub until it came off.
Used the same burr to cut through the outer race until it too relaxed from the interference fit and came out.
So here's the question...Should the Hub slide in and out of the bearing, mounted in the Bearing Carrier, easily? The Driver side did.
The axle splines go through the Hub and the 180 ft-lbs torque on the axle nut, the two slightly domed washers, and the back of the bearing inner race...the Hub turns with the axle and the wheel turns with the Hub.
So does that squeeze mean that the bearing inner race turns with the Hub? And thus having a few thousandths clearance between the OD of the Hub and the interior of the bearing correct? That after assembly the two will not rotate separately?
Lastly, the information. The wheel bearing is Polaris PN 3514822 on all four corners. My original bearing has a second number on it 0531548 and it has two separate inner races with the gap for greasing.
My new bearing is Polaris PN 3514822 and that is engraved on the bearing. But the other number is 0531812 and this bearing has a single inner race. it has a groove in the center. But if they are two pieces, its pressed together tightly enough that there is not an open groove for grease. Will try greasing it after assembly...but I don't think it will take a bit.
May change the idea of periodically greasing the bearings if they are truly a "sealed bearing" now.
Just lots of thoughts, questions and info...
Pirate
No need to remove axle with the Tiger Tool bearing greaser and others mentioned in this thread.
Should have greased your bearings sooner as the one side was seized. It should have slid right off like the other side.
I recently replaced the bearings in Dad's RZR and both sides were seized and fell apart with race
remaining inside the carrier just like your passenger side. He had never greased them thinking they were
a true sealed bearing. We were able to pull the inner races from both with a two armed puller.
As I said above:
"I look for Polaris to change their bearing design to eliminate the hollow groove in the
center of the bearings. They sell a ton of replacement bearings and these new greasers
will certainly be cutting down on their sales. Look for a new "improved" completely sealed
bearing coming your way in the near future."
Should have greased your bearings sooner as the one side was seized. It should have slid right off like the other side.
I recently replaced the bearings in Dad's RZR and both sides were seized and fell apart with race
remaining inside the carrier just like your passenger side. He had never greased them thinking they were
a true sealed bearing. We were able to pull the inner races from both with a two armed puller.
As I said above:
"I look for Polaris to change their bearing design to eliminate the hollow groove in the
center of the bearings. They sell a ton of replacement bearings and these new greasers
will certainly be cutting down on their sales. Look for a new "improved" completely sealed
bearing coming your way in the near future."
I got the same grease tool MMX had mentioned and buzzed through all four bearings in about a half hour. Removed the caliper and axle nut and the hub slid right out. I don't know if I just lucked out or if my dealer may have greased the bearings before I bought the unit, but each one only took about four pumps of grease. Torqued everything back down with a bit of lock tight on the caliper bolts and away I went.
Pirate, im not sure if I am answering your question but the inner race should move with the hub after it is torqued. The outer race remains still in the other part, "knuckle" i suppose.
Pirate, im not sure if I am answering your question but the inner race should move with the hub after it is torqued. The outer race remains still in the other part, "knuckle" i suppose.
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