[Newt2006]

Helping a friend who just purchased a 2018 general deluxe nearly identical to mine. As the title states this machine is very unstable on paved secondary roads, gravel logging access roads even trails this is not while trying to spin or even accelerate but steady speed 10mph and up. It wants to dart around left/right like the front end is worn out or toe is way out of whack but it isnt. It only does this in turf mode when the rear diff is open, once rear diff is locked it's a different machine, drives like it's on rails, no darting, very stable at any speed like mine. Nothing is loose or worn out as far as suspension or bearings go, have had it off the ground and everything is tight and spins free, tire pressure is good, even rotated tires. it does have adjustable control arms front and rear, the only thing I havent checked is the toe ( not camber, its good, yes I know the difference) on the rear wheels, this is the only thing that makes any sense to me is if one or both the rear tires is towed in or out and is pushing it left to right when rear diff is open? I know this is generally not something that is adjustable but this seems to be an uncommon issue to me as well. It's mind blowing how different this machine drives from unlocked to locked diff. Locked diff 65 on black top with one hand on the wheel no problem taking in the sights. open diff and 40 with 2 hands tight on the wheel feeling like it could run off the road at anytime if you tried to turn up the radio. Any input is appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

[lueck89]

Is something broke by the "adjustment point" of a control arm? Maybe it's going back into place when you're looking at it? Look closely... SATV A arms are known to break at the adjustment point if that's what's on the machine...

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[Newt2006]

Is something broke by the "adjustment point" of a control arm? Maybe it's going back into place when you're looking at it? Look closely... SATV A arms are known to break at the adjustment point if that's what's on the machine...

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Hey Lueck, we actually just checked that last night nothing broke or out of place with control arms, when he described it to me I expected to find worn bushing, bearings etc. But everything is rock solid. And yes satv arms are what's on it.

 

[Johnny 7]

Some tires will cause this too.
Years ago, one of our Rangers did the exact same thing with the factory tires. Put on a different set and it fixed the problem. Could you be this lucky?

 

[Newt2006]

Some tires will cause this too.
Years ago, one of our Rangers did the exact same thing with the factory tires. Put on a different set and it fixed the problem. Could you be this lucky?

This has crossed my mind to and will probly be the next thing I try this evening is swapping my wheels/tires to his, although rotating the tires made zero difference, and see what that does for it. Thanks Johnny

 

[DallasO]

Helping a friend who just purchased a 2018 general deluxe nearly identical to mine. As the title states this machine is very unstable on paved secondary roads, gravel logging access roads even trails this is not while trying to spin or even accelerate but steady speed 10mph and up. It wants to dart around left/right like the front end is worn out or toe is way out of whack but it isnt. It only does this in turf mode when the rear diff is open, once rear diff is locked it's a different machine, drives like it's on rails, no darting, very stable at any speed like mine. Nothing is loose or worn out as far as suspension or bearings go, have had it off the ground and everything is tight and spins free, tire pressure is good, even rotated tires. it does have adjustable control arms front and rear, the only thing I havent checked is the toe ( not camber, its good, yes I know the difference) on the rear wheels, this is the only thing that makes any sense to me is if one or both the rear tires is towed in or out and is pushing it left to right when rear diff is open? I know this is generally not something that is adjustable but this seems to be an uncommon issue to me as well. It's mind blowing how different this machine drives from unlocked to locked diff. Locked diff 65 on black top with one hand on the wheel no problem taking in the sights. open diff and 40 with 2 hands tight on the wheel feeling like it could run off the road at anytime if you tried to turn up the radio. Any input is appreciated, thanks in advance.

Check the Toe In, open diff lets it drift and locked diff commands it to go straight.

 

[deanrowski]

I would do a quick STRING around all fours alignment check just to see if you can spot any anomaly with rears, Also do a thread count on rear arms at adjustment point just to make sure they are both similar.

 

[Newt2006]

Check the Toe In, open diff lets it drift and locked diff commands it to go straight.

Thanks Dallas I have checked the toe/camber in the front and had it everywhere from 1/4 toe out to 1/4 toe in and everywhere in between, with diff unlocked toe in actually yielded the most stable driving, on blacktop anyways, but picked up a bad steering wheel shake at 50 or so which I see as normal with that much toe in with tires fighting each other. It's now set at 1/8 toe out witch handles great with rear diff locked, unlocked not so much.

 

[Newt2006]

I would do a quick STRING around all fours alignment check just to see if you can spot any anomaly with rears, Also do a thread count on rear arms at adjustment point just to make sure they are both similar.

Great Idea Dean,I believe this will be my next test before swapping my wheels/tires to his, seeing as I know the front is in, I made some alignment plates out of angle iron that bolt in place of the wheels/tires that have always worked great for me setting toe when suspension is loaded using 2 tape measures, I see similar setups for sale online but made mine years ago for next to nothing in about 20 mins.

 

[lueck89]

It's now set at 1/8 toe out witch handles great with rear diff locked, unlocked not so much.

It should be set to just slightly toed in or dead straight. When you're driving, it'll automatically toe out just a touch. So you dont want it to go more, it'll just burn the front tires off...

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[Newt2006]

It should be set to just slightly toed in or dead straight. When you're driving, it'll automatically toe out just a touch. So you dont want it to go more, it'll just burn the front tires off...

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Lueck, I believe most would agree that own and do there own wrenching on these buggies that slight toe in vs out and everything in between comes down to personal preference and what you do and where you ride your machine most of the time. I personally prefer slight toe out for offroad riding. the short on road stretches we run it does fine also, on pavement I would prefer slight tow in generally makes the steering feel heavier and more planted/stable. While zero toe I would agree would seem like the sweet spot I dont much care for the feel, kinda of like it can work for either on/offroad but not great at either one if that makes sense. Tire wear has been pretty normal in the 5k miles I've owned my machine granted were talking about 1/8 of an inch anyways and honestly if you have any play no matter how minimum in absolutely anything in the front end, which unless it just rolled off the showroom floor it probly does, this measurement is just a baseline anyways, to me a good drive down the road and back has always told me more than the tape measure when it comes to final setting, like you said toe can and will change when you drive down the road, tire size, tire design, air pressure, front end health, all play a role in that.

 

[Newt2006]

Just an update on the issue, @Johnny 7 nailed it. We swapped tires this evening mine to his and his to mine, the issue followed his tires to mine, and his was cured, oddest thing I've ever seen for tires that still have good tread and dont appear to have any abnormal wear, that being said these tires do seem to have a rounded profile and a smaller contact patch in the center witch I assume is what is contributing to it. Thanks for all the responses i guess it goes to show sometimes the simplest things can be the easiest to overlook.

 

[Buelligan666]

What tire pressure do those tires have in them?

 

[Newt2006]

What tire pressure do those tires have in them?

Currently setting at 8psI, have had them as high as 14 and as low as 4 with no correction to the issue either.

 

[Buelligan666]

Currently setting at 8psI, have had them as high as 14 and as low as 4 with no correction to the issue either.

Some people run the max PSI listed on the sidewall. Only reason i asked.

 

[Papermaker]

Nice find!

 

[Denny]

Not sure you’re driving 40 in turf mode. I only use it in my yard. Tough on vehicle powering in 1w/d

 

[Newt2006]

Not sure you’re driving 40 in turf mode. I only use it in my yard. Tough on vehicle powering in 1w/d

Not sure why you wouldn't drive with the rear diff unlocked if you have the option and when extra traction isnt needed, its easier on everything, no tire scrub when turning, less axle stress, trans stress etc. list goes on. All modern vehicles on the road today utilize some form of a open differential or limited slip which is a open diff until traction is lost.

 

[lueck89]

Not sure you’re driving 40 in turf mode. I only use it in my yard. Tough on vehicle powering in 1w/d

Wrong. It's simply an open diff. No hurting it doing any speeds...

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[34Ford]

Glad you figured it out. I can say my '18 is street legal here in NC and I regularly drive on the roads with the turf mode on, but I have 30" BFG KM3 utv tires for the roads with no balancing weights and she is smooth.