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2021 General 4 XP Ride Command
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering from those who went with the Tusk Soft Upper Doors for the 4 door Generals, how they like them. The price difference in the Tusk vs Polaris keeps getting bigger and bigger. At first I was pretty set on the Polaris Canvas Upper Doors, but now they are over $1700 !
Anybody that has the Tusks, I would love to hear your thoughts, $1000 difference really has me leaning towards the Tusk now.
 

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I did it.

They don't fit too well. Overall they do but plan on bending, adjusting doors, tweaking to get them to fit decent. Even then you will have gaps that may be difficult to cover

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2021 General XP4 1000 Deluxe w/ Ride Command
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I have a set on mine and I put a set on my buddy's XP4 as well. I'm happy with them for the money I paid. I couldn't justify spending an extra $1000 to accomplish the same thing. They did take a little bending and tweaking, as well as door adjusting to get them to fit like I wanted. I think some of that could be the roll cage on the General though. The canvas material doesn't seem as tough as what the Polaris brand ones are, but again, they are cheaper. Overall I am happy with the Tusk ones. If you do purchase them, don't trust the drill templates alone. On both sets that I installed, the stakes were off slightly. I put the drill templates on and held the upper door up as close as I could and adjusted the template from there.
 

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I have some gaps in mine that I'd really like to get rid of. The driver side rear door will not seal along the front edge and the front door corners have large gaps. No way to get those covered.



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2021 General 4 XP Ride Command
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks @KineKilla ! Those pictures are helpful. I do plan on hopefully having my machine for years to come, so maybe it is going to have to be the buy once, cry once mentality.
 

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My research told me that there would be fitment issues with the Polaris ones as well. A testament to the fit and finish Polaris makes a priority.

I figured that if I had to bend, tweak and deal with gaps and fitment issues I may as well not pay $1,000 more.

I may buy some thicker door seals for that one back door. The door itself has a gap at the top of that same seal. I attached a ratchet strap and tried to bend the actual door frame but didn't get much out of it.

Not sure yet how I'm going to deal with the front corners. I thought about buying the triangle shaped fillers that come with the Polaris doors. I believe they charge an arm and a leg just for those pieces though.

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2021 General XP4 1000 Deluxe w/ Ride Command
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My back doors look like that too. The kids don't complain sitting in the back seat, so I kind of forgot about it! The front door blocks most of the weather coming in in that spot so it hasn't seemed to be a problem yet.

The small corner in the front door is in front of the hinge so it would swing in when opening the door, making the door jam up. That's why they are cut off like that. I thought about making a small cap that would somehow bolt to the roll cage in that corner that the door could seal up against, but it hasn't been a problem for me yet.
 

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The problem from what I've seen with all the soft uppers is that I read polaris has a 1/2" spec for square on the cages. That's a lot of movement that can be "ok". It's impossible for any manufacturer to make something that would fit well for that. That's where the "tweek to fit" has to come for all of the upper doors....


Now I only have a G2. BUT my polaris doors fit much better than any of the tusk brand that I've seen on this forumn... I brlrive the polaris brand uppers are built heavier than the tusk or spike. But it's up to the buyer to decide what's right for them...

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1/2" tolerance is hardly a tolerance at all. Mostly a margin of error.

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1/2" outta square is a lot for a 2'x2' opening. Now try to make something that could fit/seal (has to do both) that area.... that's gonna be difficult...

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What I was trying to say is that for $35,000+ being 1/2" out of square is frankly ridiculous and Polaris should be embarrassed if that is their standard by which quality is measured.

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2022 Polaris General 1000 Premium
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I had them on my 2 seater, had to do some adjusting and use some door seal foam in a couple small places, the only leaks were front bottom corner and we usually stuck a small rag in there, I can say them and my inferno heater, I rode in my Crocs with snow on the ground and didn't get cold👍
 

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2020 XP1000 2 seater
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I have 2020 Siezmik doors on my 2020 general xp1000. A little difficult to install but I worked it out and they fit well. Last year when I was reinstalling them for winter, I permanently fixed the mounting plate for easier installation in the future. I use them when it is more than 20deg below. They work great. Last year I scratched them up pretty good and they sold me new ones for $50 each. Nice. This year I just peeled the velcro window off of the frame instead of taking the door apart to remove it. It's just fine to leave the frame on.
I realize when you've installed Polaris uppers you can just pull them off, but as for cost don't be afraid to look somewhere else.
 

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Just wondering from those who went with the Tusk Soft Upper Doors for the 4 door Generals, how they like them. The price difference in the Tusk vs Polaris keeps getting bigger and bigger. At first I was pretty set on the Polaris Canvas Upper Doors, but now they are over $1700 !
Anybody that has the Tusks, I would love to hear your thoughts, $1000 difference really has me leaning towards the Tusk now.
I installed a set of Tusk doors on our G4. Didn't want to spend the $ on the Polaris uppers as I've read in this forum that there were fitment issues with them also. The Tusk doors fit ok, and for my purposes will do fine although there are some gaps. As you read the other comments here, believe them. Don't trust the drill templates completely. for one thing, the placement of the templates isn't terribly clear and the templates themselves (basically a sticker that is cut to a "similar" contour of the area that needs to be drilled) aren't perfect. Also, don't make the mistake of leaving the templates on your doors for a long time. The adhesive they use on them is very strong and if left in the heat for a day, they are a bitch to get back off and will probably leave adhesive on your door that you've got to scrub off and/or pull of some of the door paint, which both happened to me.
The steel used is pretty cheap and soft, which is good for bending and tweaking but also bad since moving the uppers on and off the machine can bend them out of shape. The post pockets on my install were weird. Some of them slide right in and others i had to grind the paint off the posts just to get them to fit into the pockets. i initially thought the pocket brackets were misaligned in the doors but even after taking the brackets off the door frame and trying to slide them on the posts they wouldn't go. Some posts seemed too long and had to trim the length to get them to drop in fully and grind off paint. the welding looks like it was done by a 5 yr old, but what can you do. there are some sharp edges on the metal also, so be aware of that.
all and all, i paid $699 through Amazon and was glad to have them on a few cool wet rides. The gaps are visibly noticeable but they don't seem to let a ton of air blow in.
Don't plan on getting them installed in a hurry. Take your time, check and recheck the template locations. Verify by holding the upper door up to the lower door. might be worth cutting the templates off the sheet and using masking tape to get them on location. then you could easily adjust them on the doors before finally drilling the holes in the plastic.
if you're doing a G4 install- when you do the rear doors, don't worry about the front and rear door seals being close together. The rear door upper has to mate well with the small filler panel that actually gets bolted in by the rear seat headrest area. There is a little forgiveness on the bolted in filler panel and rear upper door as far as tweaking the templates to keep the back edge of the upper door so it comes into contact with the filler panel when the rear door is closed. The front edge of the rear upper door panel is just going to sit on the flat vertical ROPS support that's behind the drivers seat. i made the mistake of trying to keep the front upper and rear upper door seals to be closer together which left a gap between the rear upper door and the filler panel. had to make oversized holes in each to bring them together once i realized what I'd done wrong.
 

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2022 General XP 4 1000 Deluxe Black Crystal
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I installed a set of Tusk doors on our G4. Didn't want to spend the $ on the Polaris uppers as I've read in this forum that there were fitment issues with them also. The Tusk doors fit ok, and for my purposes will do fine although there are some gaps. As you read the other comments here, believe them. Don't trust the drill templates completely. for one thing, the placement of the templates isn't terribly clear and the templates themselves (basically a sticker that is cut to a "similar" contour of the area that needs to be drilled) aren't perfect. Also, don't make the mistake of leaving the templates on your doors for a long time. The adhesive they use on them is very strong and if left in the heat for a day, they are a bitch to get back off and will probably leave adhesive on your door that you've got to scrub off and/or pull of some of the door paint, which both happened to me.
The steel used is pretty cheap and soft, which is good for bending and tweaking but also bad since moving the uppers on and off the machine can bend them out of shape. The post pockets on my install were weird. Some of them slide right in and others i had to grind the paint off the posts just to get them to fit into the pockets. i initially thought the pocket brackets were misaligned in the doors but even after taking the brackets off the door frame and trying to slide them on the posts they wouldn't go. Some posts seemed too long and had to trim the length to get them to drop in fully and grind off paint. the welding looks like it was done by a 5 yr old, but what can you do. there are some sharp edges on the metal also, so be aware of that.
all and all, i paid $699 through Amazon and was glad to have them on a few cool wet rides. The gaps are visibly noticeable but they don't seem to let a ton of air blow in.
Don't plan on getting them installed in a hurry. Take your time, check and recheck the template locations. Verify by holding the upper door up to the lower door. might be worth cutting the templates off the sheet and using masking tape to get them on location. then you could easily adjust them on the doors before finally drilling the holes in the plastic.
if you're doing a G4 install- when you do the rear doors, don't worry about the front and rear door seals being close together. The rear door upper has to mate well with the small filler panel that actually gets bolted in by the rear seat headrest area. There is a little forgiveness on the bolted in filler panel and rear upper door as far as tweaking the templates to keep the back edge of the upper door so it comes into contact with the filler panel when the rear door is closed. The front edge of the rear upper door panel is just going to sit on the flat vertical ROPS support that's behind the drivers seat. i made the mistake of trying to keep the front upper and rear upper door seals to be closer together which left a gap between the rear upper door and the filler panel. had to make oversized holes in each to bring them together once i realized what I'd done wrong.
Thanks for the detailed report! ON R.M. now and put the Tusk ones in the cart. For the price plus I plan to only use in the colder winter months sounds like this is the way to go. Would love the full doors but way too expensive.
 

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@Robin-Stones and @KineKilla Looks like the Polaris brand doors comes with a plastic filler piece that closes up that front corner on the front doors.
Do you think you could put those in and seal it up?

View attachment 77928
Probably, yes. I priced them and didn't like what I found though.

I got Seizmik to send me some fillers. Here's the thing...

They don't work with the Lock and Ride glass windshield. They also don't work with the Seizmik mirror brackets.

So, at the end of the day I am still looking for a solution.

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