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Hi everyone! I’m just now installing the tusk seat heaters in my seats on my 22 xp4 deluxe and wondering if any electrical savvy folks could lead me in the right direction. Would any of you know what wires would be low and what wires would be high on the heaters to wire up correctly to the switch pros panel? Thanks
 

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2022 General XP 4 Trailhead Edition
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I played around with it some but didn't have the time needed to figure it out this spring. I was hoping to use matching switches to the rest in my dash. I think there might be a resistor in the switch that changes the amperage based on the high or low position. If I'm right if a person could figure out the right resistors it could be done.
 

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Got our Tusk seat heaters installed and will be working on the wiring when a buddy can come over to help run the wire. My body is shot.
Anyway I had hooked up the power and used a test light to check to be sure everything worked.
On one hookup, one pin heats up on low and the other pin on high. On the other hookup neither pin heats up on low and one heats up on high. This works the same on both sets of heaters that I have, so it isn't one not working.

So I am wondering, the lead that both pins heat up would be the seat and the other lead where one pin just heats up on high would be the back or upper part of the seat.

For the ones with the Tusk seat heaters, can you verify if only the seat heats up on low?
 

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Clayton has them….I THINK he said ass and back on both settings. I have a set in the garage for winter project…I may be able to verify on my tractor battery if no one replys
 

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OK, was thinking about this and wondered if maybe the one that lights up on low and on high, has to be plugged in to make a circuit? Anyway I did plug that one into the seat heater and left the other one that didn't light up on low, when the other one was plugged in, the one that didn't light did light up the test light on low and then on high also. That is as long as the other one was plugged into one of the seat heaters. So that mystery is solved.
Sorry if I confused some people but it is figured out now.
Thanks to all.
 
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So you should have both seat and back heaters working on low and on high.
 
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Thinking pretty seriously about getting seat heaters.
Probably the Tusk brand.
Thanks Kc81c for confirming that the heat is actually controlled (Hi/Lo), vs. just turning on/off either the seat back or seat bottom depending on switch setting.
Are the wires up to the switches just low current control wires?
Thanks.
 

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My wiring showed 18 gauge on the Tusk seat heaters.
 
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Went for a ride yesterday with my bride and she was certainly impressed with the heaters. Since her cancer ordeal she is cold and the Polaris heater takes awhile to heat up, so these heaters also take a minute or two to heat up but they really work well.
When the seat is bare and you aren't sitting on them, it feels a little warm but not much. Then you go and sit on them and they are much warmer. Maybe it is just me but I thought they might not be working correctly until we sat on them.
Each seat heater comes with a 7.5 Amp fuse, so they can't be taking much juice.
I didn't hook them up to the battery, I ran them up under the hood to my Blue Sea Fuse Block.
If you are on the fence whether to buy these or not, I definitely recommend them especially if your "navigator" gets cold easily. Not hard to put in either but you want an air or electric staple gun! I bought an electric Dewalt from Home Depot and it works slick.
Just remember to get Stainless Steel staples. Some have used 3/8'' but I used 1/2'' stainless steel staples.
Home Depot has it all.
 
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Good information, thanks.
The heaters arrived yesterday and I plan to start installing them today. The way I work, it will probably take a few days of a couple slow hours/day.
Have a pneumatic stapler, but need to check if the staples are SS (which might mean a trip to town that will burn a couple more hours).
Will keep expectations low as to how the seats feels when not sitting on them.
Now I just need to get over to the coast to ride (way too cold here for us now without an enclosed cab)
 

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Being I mounted my wiring under the hood, I needed to extend some of the wires so they reached where I wanted them. My wires were 18 gauge.
So measure out first from where you are going to connect them to, just to know if you will need wire and connectors to extend the length.
 
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Got the heaters installed and they work great.

My comments for installing the Tusk seat heaters in a G2 are:
  • Agree 100% that while they don't feel warm to the touch, they get plenty warm. Also, since there is more voltage available when the alternator is charging the battery, they get hotter when running the motor than just sitting in the shop with the motor off (P=E^2/R). On a 40 degree day, with open cab, the low setting is just fine.
  • Yes, if you want to mount the switches in the dash, you will probably want (need) to extend the wires. Also, as others have noted, the switches are not the same size cutout as the other panel switches (they are slightly smaller). So cut with care.
  • Modifying the seats was easy peasy, just take your time. No idea how well an electric stapler would work, but the pneumatic stapler was sweet. I would not want to use a manual stapler. My seat bottoms have grooves in the foam right in the center for Velcro to help tension the seat fabric. So I first glued the heater into the grooves (3M adhesive spray), and then I glued the Velcro strip on top of the pad so as to make the seat bottoms retain their original (from the factory) look. No idea how long this glue will hold but the original glue holding the Velcro had already failed anyway so it really isn't a big deal if it doesn't work out. I also drilled two small holes in the seat plastic, near where the wires emerge from under the seat fabric, and used a small zip tie to secure the wires to the plastic I then sealed these holes with some silicone on the seat backs (holes in the bottom of the seat bottoms are OK). The factory used 3/8" long non-stainless staples with a 1/2" crown. No need for longer staples since they just hold into the plastic seat frame, so I used 3/8" long stainless staples with a 3/8" crown (available at Home Depot).
  • I routed the power leads up to the power bus (connectors) in the front of the machine.
  • I am not impressed with the connectors (two per seat) and would like to replace them with one connector that is a bit more water resistant.
  • No written instructions were provided (I consider consider written instructions to be the mark of a good, detailed orientated, manufacture), so you will probably want to watch the video.

I like the seat heaters and would recommend this product (or similar) to anyone who rides in cool weather. But due to the lack of instructions, incorrectly sized switches, funky connectors, and wires that are too short to reach the dash (in all fairness, the manufacture recommended the switches be placed in the console where the wires would be be long enough....but geez, just another 12" of wire is all that would be needed for, I suspect, most machines), I would give the product 4 out of 5 stars.
 

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Got the heaters installed and they work great.

My comments for installing the Tusk seat heaters in a G2 are:
  • Agree 100% that while they don't feel warm to the touch, they get plenty warm. Also, since there is more voltage available when the alternator is charging the battery, they get hotter when running the motor than just sitting in the shop with the motor off (P=E^2/R). On a 40 degree day, with open cab, the low setting is just fine.
  • Yes, if you want to mount the switches in the dash, you will probably want (need) to extend the wires. Also, as others have noted, the switches are not the same size cutout as the other panel switches (they are slightly smaller). So cut with care.
  • Modifying the seats was easy peasy, just take your time. No idea how well an electric stapler would work, but the pneumatic stapler was sweet. I would not want to use a manual stapler. My seat bottoms have grooves in the foam right in the center for Velcro to help tension the seat fabric. So I first glued the heater into the grooves (3M adhesive spray), and then I glued the Velcro strip on top of the pad so as to make the seat bottoms retain their original (from the factory) look. No idea how long this glue will hold but the original glue holding the Velcro had already failed anyway so it really isn't a big deal if it doesn't work out. I also drilled two small holes in the seat plastic, near where the wires emerge from under the seat fabric, and used a small zip tie to secure the wires to the plastic I then sealed these holes with some silicone on the seat backs (holes in the bottom of the seat bottoms are OK). The factory used 3/8" long non-stainless staples with a 1/2" crown. No need for longer staples since they just hold into the plastic seat frame, so I used 3/8" long stainless staples with a 3/8" crown (available at Home Depot).
  • I routed the power leads up to the power bus (connectors) in the front of the machine.
  • I am not impressed with the connectors (two per seat) and would like to replace them with one connector that is a bit more water resistant.
  • No written instructions were provided (I consider consider written instructions to be the mark of a good, detailed orientated, manufacture), so you will probably want to watch the video.

I like the seat heaters and would recommend this product (or similar) to anyone who rides in cool weather. But due to the lack of instructions, incorrectly sized switches, funky connectors, and wires that are too short to reach the dash (in all fairness, the manufacture recommended the switches be placed in the console where the wires would be be long enough....but geez, just another 12" of wire is all that would be needed for, I suspect, most machines), I would give the product 4 out of 5 stars.
I was thinking about gluing the pads down into the grooves as well. Then use the silver tape on the groove to stick the Velcro to….you just stuck them to the heating pad correct?
 

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This only applies to the seat bottoms as the backs don't have an issue with the grooves that a little trimming can't fix.
  • I first laid out the pads where I wanted them and marked where the grooves were.
  • Turned the pads over and remarked the groove locations with lines using a felt tip pen.
  • Put blue painter tape around the lines on the bottom of the pads to eliminate overspray.
  • Likewise, put blue painters tape around the outside of the grooves in the seat bottom foam.
  • Sprayed the bottom of the pads (only where marked) and the grooves with adhesive.
  • Let adhesive dry some.
  • Glued down by starting at one end of the grooves and slowly working my way to to the other end being mindful to spread the whole pad as smooth as possible.
  • Then I peeled the tape off the sides of the pads to stick them down.
(Note that you will not have to trim the sides of the seat pads because once they are in the grooves, they don't cover as much of the seat bottom and don't interfere with the outer grooves)
-Then I repeated the process to glue the hook portion of the Velcro strip onto the part of the heater pads that were in the grooves.
- At the front of the seat, there will be some overlap of the pad. You can either cut that off (where there is no heater elements) or fold it over. If you fold it over, because of the grooves, there will be a fold. I simply cut a little angled piece out (like you would do when bending sheet metal) so it folds flat. Then I used the silver tape provided in the kit to hold the ends down as per the on-line video instructions.

Hope this helps, though I probably made this sound much more complicated than it was.
 

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This only applies to the seat bottoms as the backs don't have an issue with the grooves that a little trimming can't fix.
  • I first laid out the pads where I wanted them and marked where the grooves were.
  • Turned the pads over and remarked the groove locations with lines using a felt tip pen.
  • Put blue painter tape around the lines on the bottom of the pads to eliminate overspray.
  • Likewise, put blue painters tape around the outside of the grooves in the seat bottom foam.
  • Sprayed the bottom of the pads (only where marked) and the grooves with adhesive.
  • Let adhesive dry some.
  • Glued down by starting at one end of the grooves and slowly working my way to to the other end being mindful to spread the whole pad as smooth as possible.
  • Then I peeled the tape off the sides of the pads to stick them down.
(Note that you will not have to trim the sides of the seat pads because once they are in the grooves, they don't cover as much of the seat bottom and don't interfere with the outer grooves)
-Then I repeated the process to glue the hook portion of the Velcro strip onto the part of the heater pads that were in the grooves.
- At the front of the seat, there will be some overlap of the pad. You can either cut that off (where there is no heater elements) or fold it over. If you fold it over, because of the grooves, there will be a fold. I simply cut a little angled piece out (like you would do when bending sheet metal) so it folds flat. Then I used the silver tape provided in the kit to hold the ends down as per the on-line video instructions.

Hope this helps, though I probably made this sound much more complicated than it was.
Nope, just fine😎
 

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After putting mine in, I'm wondering if they need to be glued or taped or anything. I can hear the tape crinkling up when i sit on the seat. As tight as the seat is I honestly don't see how the heating pad can roll up or move any. But this is by far one of my favorite add-ons that I have done. And one of the cheapest also! I would also add to your instructions to not take the seat skin fully off. I left mine stapled on the top 1/4 of the seat to help it stay lined up. You can reach all you need to that way. I wish I would have had your post to read when I put mine on. I turned them on and they never got warm on my hand so I thought I might have cut a wire when I was trimming them up. After riding for a couple min with them on the high setting I knew they were working when I saw my wife turn it down to the low setting!:LOL:
 
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