Wiring the Turn Signal kit
First effort is to remove the upper dash cover to expose the back of the instrument cluster and determine if the green directional arrows in the instrument cluster can be used for turn signal indicators.
Its clear that the windshield must be removed. I had the dealer install the windshield and the electric windshield wiper accessories. I also had the dealer install the heater/defroster accessory.
First thing was to remove the windshield wiper. Note in the pic that the wiper at rest is parallel to the top edge of the windshield. Pop up the cover over the end of the wiper and note that there is a nut holding the windshield wiper on. Use a 13mm socket to remove the nut. With a little gentle nudging the wiper will come off.
Remove the rubber grommet, the large nut and washer on the wiper motor shaft. I used a crescent wrench as I don’t have metric deep sockets that large.
Then remove the “anti-rotation” bolt to the Driver’s side of the wiper shaft. Use a 10mm socket. I used my cordless impact as the bolt is more than 2” long.
Wiggle the wiper motor and it will back out of the windshield plate. It will hang safely out of the way.
The windshield washer nozzle does not have to be removed. Simply clamp off the fluid hose to the nozzle and pull it off.
Turn the four windshield clamps 90 degrees, and with help, lift the windshield off and set it aside.
Now remove the following Push Rivets:
The five across the front of the upper dash panel.
The two on each front fender forward of the windshield.
The two on each front fender down the vertical face of the fender inside the cab, door open.
With these all removed and with help, you can lift up on the fender, in front of the forward edge of the upper dash and begin to wiggle the upper dash rearward. I found the most difficult part of this to be getting the upper dash edge that laps over the front cage down tubes. Work one side at a time and it will move.
The pic below shows the limit of movement I have on my upper dash panel. I used soft faced squeeze clamps to support the upper dash.
Forward of the steering wheel you can see that little grey rectangle. That is the instrument cluster wiring Here’s another better view of the plug. There is some extra room in the instrument cluster “box”, but before drilling holes, tilt the steering wheel all the way up and see if you have room.
Reach underneath the grey plug and there is a ½” lever latch. Push up on the lever at the end furthest from the plug interface and gently pull the plug out. The wiring harness has enough length to get the plug out of the dash and onto a towel or blanket over the under hood area.
In the pic above you can see two little somethings at the corners of the plug horizontal joint. Those are small clips that must be pried gently apart to open the plug.
In the pic below you can see that pin locations 6 and 7 have a blue cover over them. This is a ½” long blank that can easily be removed with tweezers or an exacto knife.
Pin 6 is the LEFT TURN SIGNAL INPUT
Pin 7 is the RIGHT TURN SIGNAL INPUT
My hope is that by having the turn signal system apply power to Pin 6 or Pin 7 it will cause the green indicator light to blink, just as in an automobile.
But first, I want to verify that’s how things work and not short out or melt the plug!!!
If you look at the face of the plug it uses the smallest tube connectors I’ve been around. Checked everywhere in town, nothing even close!!
So what to do? I took a look at how long the plug is, and how deep a wire must go to make contact with the pin in the instrument cluster. Turns out to be just about 1 ¼”.
So after several unsuccessful efforts I stripped a the end of a piece of 18 gauge wire to 1 ¼” and used a soldering iron to coat the wire with lead free solder. Thus making it rigid for inserting in the plug.
The pic below shows my test wire for clarification if needed.
Sure enough, with one end of the test wire connected to the HOT post on the under hood distribution block, the plug connected to the instrument cluster, and the soldered test wire pushed into the Pin 6 port, the left turn green indicator lights up.
With the soldered test wire pushed into the Pin 7 port the right turn green indicator lights up.
A couple of notes:
Using my good Craftsman digital multi-meter. On the under hood distribution block, from ground to the HOT post I read +12V. From the ground to the SWITCHED post I read -12V. I have no idea why. Yet! But if I connect my test wire to the SWITCHED post, turn the key on and insert the soldered wire into Port 6 or Port 7 I get nothing. Connect the test wire to the HOT post and the green indicator lights come on. Not sure if the motor needs to be running. But not able to do that yet with the front diff out.
It looks as though I can use the appropriate color wire, solder coated for 1 1/4” and pushed into the plug until the light illuminates…the wire will stay in place and do as intended.
Next post will be installing the turn signal switch on the steering column and test to see that the green indicators will blink with the turn signal flasher.
Pirate
First effort is to remove the upper dash cover to expose the back of the instrument cluster and determine if the green directional arrows in the instrument cluster can be used for turn signal indicators.
Its clear that the windshield must be removed. I had the dealer install the windshield and the electric windshield wiper accessories. I also had the dealer install the heater/defroster accessory.
First thing was to remove the windshield wiper. Note in the pic that the wiper at rest is parallel to the top edge of the windshield. Pop up the cover over the end of the wiper and note that there is a nut holding the windshield wiper on. Use a 13mm socket to remove the nut. With a little gentle nudging the wiper will come off.

Remove the rubber grommet, the large nut and washer on the wiper motor shaft. I used a crescent wrench as I don’t have metric deep sockets that large.
Then remove the “anti-rotation” bolt to the Driver’s side of the wiper shaft. Use a 10mm socket. I used my cordless impact as the bolt is more than 2” long.
Wiggle the wiper motor and it will back out of the windshield plate. It will hang safely out of the way.
The windshield washer nozzle does not have to be removed. Simply clamp off the fluid hose to the nozzle and pull it off.
Turn the four windshield clamps 90 degrees, and with help, lift the windshield off and set it aside.
Now remove the following Push Rivets:
The five across the front of the upper dash panel.
The two on each front fender forward of the windshield.
The two on each front fender down the vertical face of the fender inside the cab, door open.
With these all removed and with help, you can lift up on the fender, in front of the forward edge of the upper dash and begin to wiggle the upper dash rearward. I found the most difficult part of this to be getting the upper dash edge that laps over the front cage down tubes. Work one side at a time and it will move.
The pic below shows the limit of movement I have on my upper dash panel. I used soft faced squeeze clamps to support the upper dash.

Forward of the steering wheel you can see that little grey rectangle. That is the instrument cluster wiring Here’s another better view of the plug. There is some extra room in the instrument cluster “box”, but before drilling holes, tilt the steering wheel all the way up and see if you have room.

Reach underneath the grey plug and there is a ½” lever latch. Push up on the lever at the end furthest from the plug interface and gently pull the plug out. The wiring harness has enough length to get the plug out of the dash and onto a towel or blanket over the under hood area.
In the pic above you can see two little somethings at the corners of the plug horizontal joint. Those are small clips that must be pried gently apart to open the plug.
In the pic below you can see that pin locations 6 and 7 have a blue cover over them. This is a ½” long blank that can easily be removed with tweezers or an exacto knife.
Pin 6 is the LEFT TURN SIGNAL INPUT
Pin 7 is the RIGHT TURN SIGNAL INPUT

My hope is that by having the turn signal system apply power to Pin 6 or Pin 7 it will cause the green indicator light to blink, just as in an automobile.
But first, I want to verify that’s how things work and not short out or melt the plug!!!
If you look at the face of the plug it uses the smallest tube connectors I’ve been around. Checked everywhere in town, nothing even close!!
So what to do? I took a look at how long the plug is, and how deep a wire must go to make contact with the pin in the instrument cluster. Turns out to be just about 1 ¼”.
So after several unsuccessful efforts I stripped a the end of a piece of 18 gauge wire to 1 ¼” and used a soldering iron to coat the wire with lead free solder. Thus making it rigid for inserting in the plug.
The pic below shows my test wire for clarification if needed.

Sure enough, with one end of the test wire connected to the HOT post on the under hood distribution block, the plug connected to the instrument cluster, and the soldered test wire pushed into the Pin 6 port, the left turn green indicator lights up.

With the soldered test wire pushed into the Pin 7 port the right turn green indicator lights up.
A couple of notes:
Using my good Craftsman digital multi-meter. On the under hood distribution block, from ground to the HOT post I read +12V. From the ground to the SWITCHED post I read -12V. I have no idea why. Yet! But if I connect my test wire to the SWITCHED post, turn the key on and insert the soldered wire into Port 6 or Port 7 I get nothing. Connect the test wire to the HOT post and the green indicator lights come on. Not sure if the motor needs to be running. But not able to do that yet with the front diff out.
It looks as though I can use the appropriate color wire, solder coated for 1 1/4” and pushed into the plug until the light illuminates…the wire will stay in place and do as intended.
Next post will be installing the turn signal switch on the steering column and test to see that the green indicators will blink with the turn signal flasher.
Pirate