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Premium Member
2016 Polaris General Deluxe, 10% OEM
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4,813 Posts
Lilrez,
That's how we all learn. Reading posts on this forum. Ask about anything. Do your best to accurately describe your question or problem.

Different than this thread...there are a lot that the response is, like the old line, "this post is stupid without pictures"

Glad I could offer a bit of help. Personally I'm using small LED's in chrome housings from DEipowersports.com like these:
69417

I mounted them just below the instrument console. Easy to see and easy to use.

Pirate
 

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Premium Member
2020 XP1000 2 seater
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55 Posts
Well folks, many, many thanks for the knowledge that is posted here in this forum. I now have my sequential turn signals working with the arrows in the dashboard. The voltage regulator did the trick. At first the led sequential turn signals didn't work because of the low draw, but when I added the beepers they had enough draw to work. Now it's all working fine, and I don't drive down the road with my left turn signals on, with the arrows flashing and the beeper beeping.

I would post pictures, but I have tried before with disastrous results.

Thanks for all the help, Jim
 

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Premium Member
2020 XP1000 2 seater
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55 Posts
One more thing. When wiring the voltage regulator make sure that you use the feed from the plug and play that is always hot. Using the power that goes off with the key, will reset the clock.
Jim
 

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2018 Polaris General 1000 Ride Comand
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357 Posts
I am assuming Ryco has figured this out as I see a video on the General FB page of the dash indicators working.
 

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General EPS 1000
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9 Posts
Just saying I followed your direction to connect the light in the instrument panel (and by the way thank you for the info)and when I got them connected they would work with key on engine not running but when I started the engine and the voltage got above 13.5V they would quite. I ordered a inline voltage regulator and installed it in the battery power feed to the instrument panel set it to 13V and now my lights work like they should with engine running. I would like to say you and the other members have been very helpful on this site and I just wanted to share info as well. The connection's terminal number's were 4 and 5 on the plugin that are positive and neg. are the wire's I tied into. The only draw back is the voltage on the instrument panel does not show charge voltage after doing this.
So you spliced into the red/white striped wire (pin#4) to panel with the voltage regulator? (with brown pin#5 being common ground) Is that right? Where in the cabling did you do this? Can you please suggest a voltage regulator model ?
Thanks in advance!
Sparks
 

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Premium Member
2016 Polaris General Deluxe, 10% OEM
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4,813 Posts
Sparks, whew, this is an oldie. But mine did not work. I had to install a pair of Design Engineering small LEDs in a chrome bezel.
I understand that Corbin now makes a plug & play turn signal kit that used the console blinker arrows.
I was way early in the General years for any of many accessories to be available. I installed my own turn signal kit in May 2016.
Pirate
 

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General EPS 1000
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9 Posts
Sparks, whew, this is an oldie. But mine did not work. I had to install a pair of Design Engineering small LEDs in a chrome bezel.
I understand that Corbin now makes a plug & play turn signal kit that used the console blinker arrows.
I was way early in the General years for any of many accessories to be available. I installed my own turn signal kit in May 2016.
Pirate
Hi Pirate,
Just for my own curiosity, I put my 2 amp charger on the battery. The cluster turn signal indicators were working until the battery voltage rose through approximately 14 volts then stopped indicating. So I will be installing a voltage regulator in line with the red/white wire and the brown wire (ground) and as Jumpy and I think Berniep experienced, this should allow the indicators to function all the time. Your detailed instructions for installing the pins to 6 and 7 were great and very much appreciated! (2017 General) Thank You !
 

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Premium Member
2016 Polaris General Deluxe, 10% OEM
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4,813 Posts
Let us know how it works out. I could get my left blinker light to work. But after a few seconds it would quit.
I came to learn that the working of the arrows in the console is in the electronic brain in the console.
I hope it works. Share how you did it...and I'll probably do it....this Winter.
Pirate
 

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General EPS 1000
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9 Posts
Let us know how it works out. I could get my left blinker light to work. But after a few seconds it would quit.
I came to learn that the working of the arrows in the console is in the electronic brain in the console.
I hope it works. Share how you did it...and I'll probably do it....this Winter.
Pirate
I will report back when completed. I too, noticed that the right indicator arrow is more sensitive than the left.
 

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General EPS 1000
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9 Posts
I will report back when completed. I too, noticed that the right indicator arrow is more sensitive than the left.
It is now completed, in an hour and a half. with testing along the way. With a Protooma Voltage Converter from Amazon for $11.99, outputs a steady 12.33 volts ( 3 amps max. rated) as the supply input climbs through 14 volts. I only cut the red/white striped wire behind the cluster, ran two wires to the converter in the front and picked up ground at the terminal block to the two ground wires from the converter. This was easier than I expected having to cut only one wire and making connections and mounting the converter under the hood. So the turn signal indicators in the instrument cluster now work perfectly all the time .As others have stated, the cluster will now only read a steady 12.3 volts, which doesn't bother me.
Thanks to all that suggested this fix and the pinning of the cluster plug.
 

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Premium Member
2016 Polaris General Deluxe, 10% OEM
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4,813 Posts
OK now Sparks...we need pics and a wiring diagram of how you got it done.
I want to do as you have done, but haven't looked behind the instrument cluster since my installing turn signals in 2016.
Please and Thank you!!
Pirate
Oh, and is one of these the correct converter? It's all I found through an Amazon search for "Protooma Voltage Converter"
Human body Rectangle Font Magenta Circle

Rectangle Font Number Circle Paper product
 

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General EPS 1000
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9 Posts
Hi Pirate,
Scroll down to the 3 amp version for $11.99 on Amazon. Three amps is adequate for this application however the higher amp ones pictured should also work . I don't have pictures however here is the procedure. First remove the upper steering wheel height control bolt. Unsnap the black plastic bezel? around the instrument cluster to view the cable from from the back of the cluster. Carefully cut open the black cloth friction tape around the wires. Locate the white/red striped wire and cut it so you have two ends that you can connect to two wires (preferably different colors) to run to the voltage converter. Connect the wire going into the cluster to the converter output and the wire that is coming from the harness to the converter input. Connect the two negative wires from the converter to any convenient vehicle ground. Reassemble, tape and cable tie where appropriate. Mount voltage converter. This is how I installed the converter/regulator, however anyone attempting this (or any repair) must be responsible and cautious so as to avoid any damage. Thanks!
 

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Premium Member
2016 Polaris General Deluxe, 10% OEM
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4,813 Posts
Sparks,
To all, I have taken sparks great solution and added pics from my efforts back in 2016. The pics do a pretty good job of showing the steps Sparks lays out in the post above.
So this one?
Product Azure Rectangle Violet Font

ordered it just now. This device takes battery voltage, as high as 14.3 Volts DC...on Pirate's General...and drops it to a steady 12 Volts DC. Which, reading Sparks posts is what is required for the
turn signal indicators to work.
To start with, figure out where you want to mount the Converter. One glance will tell you it's water proof an can be mounted any way necessary. My under the hood is getting pretty crowded so I
may mount it to the firewall below the brake Master cylinder.
So remove the tilt wheel bolt at the upper end of the tilt cylinder, allowing the steering wheel to tilt down as far as possible. As shown below:
I have the steering wheel resting on a jack stand to keep it in place...sorta.
Hood Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Car

Remove the black bezel around the instrument cluster. It just pops off with a bit of work getting it loose all the way around.
This will allow you to move the instrument cluster toward the steering will and provide access to the backside of the instrument cluster.
After these two steps things will look like this:
Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire

The wires from the wiring harness go into a plug, which plugs into the back of the instrument console.
Note the Red wire with the White stripe. In Polaris wiring diagram the wire is R/WH. As seen below:
Gas Composite material Electrical wiring Engineering Machine

Locate the R/WH wire and cut it so you have two ends that you can connect to two 16ga wires (preferably different colors, perhaps a Red wire to the R/WH from the connector. A Blue wire
from the wiring harness.
Be oh so very careful if you decide to unplug the wiring harness from the instrument console. I wasn't and broke the gray piece of the connector in the pic. Searched everywhere on the web to
find a replacement. I now have a complete wiring harness, less the instrument console connector, in a box. Only an $800 minute of stupidity on Pirate's part.
The Converter has four wires (don't have mine yet but the Amazon ad shows four). A Red wire, a Yellow wire and two Black wires.
The Red wire you've connected to the R/WH wire, from the connector, connects to the Red wire from the Converter. The Blue wire you've connected to the R/WH wire, from the wiring harness, connects to the Yellow wire from the Converter. The two Black wires are Ground wires. Connect them to a ground location under the hood. Pulse bar ground or Three terminal ground.

With the Ignition key "ON", you can test the turn signals and make sure all is working well.
Everything good? Tape up the wiring harness where you cut into it. Perhaps add some split loom wire cover too!
Set the instrument console where it belongs and snap the black bezel in place.
Raise the steering wheel and reinsert the top bolt and tighten to spec. 10 ft-lbs I think.

You're ready to roll!!
Sparks, did I get it right? Just trying to provide a little more info on the install.
Thanks for taking the time to share the solution with us!!!
Pirate
 

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General EPS 1000
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9 Posts
Sparks,
To all, I have taken sparks great solution and added pics from my efforts back in 2016. The pics do a pretty good job of showing the steps Sparks lays out in the post above.
So this one?
View attachment 78109
ordered it just now. This device takes battery voltage, as high as 14.3 Volts DC...on Pirate's General...and drops it to a steady 12 Volts DC. Which, reading Sparks posts is what is required for the
turn signal indicators to work.
To start with, figure out where you want to mount the Converter. One glance will tell you it's water proof an can be mounted any way necessary. My under the hood is getting pretty crowded so I
may mount it to the firewall below the brake Master cylinder.
So remove the tilt wheel bolt at the upper end of the tilt cylinder, allowing the steering wheel to tilt down as far as possible. As shown below:
I have the steering wheel resting on a jack stand to keep it in place...sorta.
View attachment 78110
Remove the black bezel around the instrument cluster. It just pops off with a bit of work getting it loose all the way around.
This will allow you to move the instrument cluster toward the steering will and provide access to the backside of the instrument cluster.
After these two steps things will look like this:
View attachment 78111
The wires from the wiring harness go into a plug, which plugs into the back of the instrument console.
Note the Red wire with the White stripe. In Polaris wiring diagram the wire is R/WH. As seen below:
View attachment 78112
Locate the R/WH wire and cut it so you have two ends that you can connect to two 16ga wires (preferably different colors, perhaps a Red wire to the R/WH from the connector. A Blue wire
from the wiring harness.
Be oh so very careful if you decide to unplug the wiring harness from the instrument console. I wasn't and broke the gray piece of the connector in the pic. Searched everywhere on the web to
find a replacement. I now have a complete wiring harness, less the instrument console connector, in a box. Only an $800 minute of stupidity on Pirate's part.
The Converter has four wires (don't have mine yet but the Amazon ad shows four). A Red wire, a Yellow wire and two Black wires.
The Red wire you've connected to the R/WH wire, from the connector, connects to the Red wire from the Converter. The Blue wire you've connected to the R/WH wire, from the wiring harness, connects to the Yellow wire from the Converter. The two Black wires are Ground wires. Connect them to a ground location under the hood. Pulse bar ground or Three terminal ground.

With the Ignition key "ON", you can test the turn signals and make sure all is working well.
Everything good? Tape up the wiring harness where you cut into it. Perhaps add some split loom wire cover too!
Set the instrument console where it belongs and snap the black bezel in place.
Raise the steering wheel and reinsert the top bolt and tighten to spec. 10 ft-lbs I think.

You're ready to roll!!
Sparks, did I get it right? Just trying to provide a little more info on the install.
Thanks for taking the time to share the solution with us!!!
Pirate
Hi Pirate,
Very nice! As long as the output of the regulator is feeding the cluster, everyone following this will enjoy having the indicators in the cluster lighting up with their outside turn signal lights.
Sparks ("they don't call me sparks for nothin' !")
 

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Registered
2022 general XP on the way
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1,110 Posts
I find it very interesting that you guys need a voltage regulator to get your dash indicators to work. My blinker kit simply splices a wire in AFTER the blinker switch (on each power wire to blinkers) and runs it up to the gauge cluster... I can't remember the pins it goes to in the cluster. But no regulator needed... 22xp...

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 

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Registered
General EPS 1000
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9 Posts
I find it very interesting that you guys need a voltage regulator to get your dash indicators to work. My blinker kit simply splices a wire in AFTER the blinker switch (on each power wire to blinkers) and runs it up to the gauge cluster... I can't remember the pins it goes to in the cluster. But no regulator needed... 22xp...

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
So perhaps your general is a 2020 or newer model. I understand that some changes were made then.
 

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Premium Member
2016 Polaris General Deluxe, 10% OEM
Joined
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4,813 Posts
Sparks...ummm...I haven't received my converter yet...
Is there a polarity? Is the Yellow wire to connect to the harness and the Red to the plug? Or does it matter?

The international model Generals come with turn signals, the stalk and all...but I've been unable to find parts listings.
Mine is 2016. I put my whole kit together starting with a NAPA switch housing on the steering column. Did it on my RZR800 too!
Not that bad a job. But a plug-n-play system like today would sure make it easy!!
Pirate
 

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Premium Member
2016 Polaris General Deluxe, 10% OEM
Joined
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4,813 Posts
Sparks and whoever else is following this thread. I received my Converter in the mail yesterday.
As is becoming common, there were no instructions or wiring diagrams...nothing but the converter in the box.
Flipping it over, here's a pic of the backside:
Fixture Rectangle Font Gas Technology

Aha! This is everything needed!!
After you have found the Red with White stripe wire in the harness and cut it...
The harness end connects to the Red wire on the Converter. Note the sticker on the back shows 24V. This indicates that any DC voltage up to 24 volts can be connected.
The plug/connector end connects Yellow wire on the Converter. Not the sticker on the back shows 12V. This indicates the output of the Converter is 12 volts at up to 5 amps.

Years ago, I heard about using a voltage regulator, that the controls for the turn signal indicators was in a circuit board and couldn't be made to work.
Sparks has given us the actual information....to use the turn signal indicators! The Red with White stripe comes from a splice. Two wires come from the fuse block and go to the
splice, I'm thinking the two hot wires, from the fuse block, go to the instrument cluster to make sure it doesn't go out if a fuse, protecting other electrical equipment blows?
The fuse block sees battery voltage. Often times if one just turns the key on Battery voltage is something like 12.2 volts. Start the engine and it should go to as much as 14.4 volts.

Apparently, the portion of the circuit board for the turn signal indicators requires 12 volts...period. No more! So the Converter Sparks found and used has an output of 12 volts. Just
12 volts. This allows us to use the turn signal indicators.
Hope to install mine today, or tomorrow...and will post more pics.

Sparks, thanks so much for getting us started!! The information you have provided was the key!!!

Pirate
 
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