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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Added a gun mount to the passenger side grab handle to hold my AR. My G has gun boots, but the AR won't fit in them, so used a padded strap to clamp the mount to the handle. Also welded on the fenders to my new trailer. My old trailer was too narrow for the G, so I am building a bigger one, with help from the very best friend a guy could have. Next is side tubing, decking and a short rail about 12" high around three sides. Then build the ramp/rear gate, sand blast, paint and done. Sure glad I have help, or rather, I hope I am good help, my friend is doing most of the work. I just try to stay out of the way. lol. Ride safe, ride insured,


Roy
 

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What no pictures!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No trailer pics yet, but here is the gun mount I put in. I did a similar install in my RZR on the end of the grab bar and it works well. Photos from both sides. I used a 1 inch padded strap. It is stainless steel and has a soft rubber cushion. I cut the cushion in the gun mount and left a "hinge" in the rubber. Then drilled for a 1/4-20 bolt. Bolted to the strap and voila. The flap in the mount cushion closes up hiding the bolt head. I used a SS stove bolt with a tapered screw head. Third photo kinda shows it. Ride safe, ride insured,


Roy
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So the elk is cut up and the trailer is back under construction. I little bit more and it will be ready for sand blasting and paint. I am trying to find a good way to sand blast it. I'll have to price the rental and media and comp[are that to just having it done by a shop. I'll say one thing, it will be **** for stout. Not real heavy either. It will be less than half the cost of a new one. And the elk meat was fabulous after hanging for 7 days. The back-strap steaks were nearly as large as your hand. Stay tuned for more pictures.
 

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And being able to say (when asked where you bought it) No I built it Priceless ! >:)
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I installed the RyFab rear sliding glass rear window. I was disappointed in that there still wasn't much air flow in the cab. The sliders worked great and it is everything that was advertised. I was expecting some air flow in the cab though. In retaliation, I removed the plastic windows in my uppers. The gap that was left was covered with 1" wide self-adhesive foam, and that was held in place with some black duct tape. We'll see how durable it is, but if not, it will be very easy to repair. I am leaving for an evening elk hunt in a little bit, so I will report how all that worked out. Pictures to come soon. Ride safe, ride insured,

Roy.
 

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Dang it! MORE WAITING seems to be a trend with anything related to the General! >:)
 

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I will post some photos later, but I really like having the open windows now that it is warmer. It is such an easy thing to do, I am surprised no one else has posted about it. The foam and duct tape might look a little bit tacky, but being able to see out and talk with the doors closed is a big plus. Admittedly, the bottom edge of the window is a little too high to hang an elbow out the window while you drive. I am currently talking to my wife about fabricating vinyl windows in canvas, and snap/Velcro them to the outer shell of the uppers. She can make them, and even do zippers like other soft windows being offered. The plexi scratches so easily it is a real pain, so I am thinking about trying to use a head light restorer kit to polish them back to original clarity. To take the windows out of the Polaris uppers, just remove the ten or so screws out of the uppers from the inside of the door. There are a series of clamps that hold the window in place. I found I could remove just two of these clamps and lift the window out. Re-install the inner shell with the ten screws that were removed, and it is back together. I laid the self stick foam weather stripping over the gap between the inner and outer shells, then ran black duct tape over that to make it sturdier. I'm not worried about any glue residue if I want to go back to the windows, Ronsonal Lighter Fuel (naptha) works wonders to remove any glue residue from about anything. BTW, when it got cooler last evening, my heater still kept it cozy warm inside the cab even without windows. I have the little Ice Crusher heater. Of course the benefit of just removing the window and not the whole upper, is door alignment. You have to loosen the upper hinge bolts to remove the whole upper. Realignment is a nightmare according to many who post here. Plus you have to face the door separation issue, if you remove the upper, as well. Random thoughts of a troubled mind. I hope they help someone down the road. Ride safe, ride insured,

Roy
 
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