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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Maybe it's just me or maybe some of you feel the same way but I feel like Polaris makes everything so hard to do. I'm drenched in sweat ready to throw my tools around my garage. I cooled down and came in. Here's what I'm trying to so but Polaris puts obstacles in your way like a maze. I want to run my positive and negative winch wires to the battery. Shouldn't be hard right? Wrong. I planned to take out the drivers side panel to access where the main harness is running. Holy smokes..push pins in akward spots. One I fought with for 25 min to get out and two under the steering wheel at the very top of the panel I believe someone put in backwards. All that done and I can't get the panel out. It's fully loose but no real way to just slide it out. I could run the wires now that I can access the main harness but I planned to make this easy. Boy was I wrong. Polaris didn't think it would be smart to make an easy way to access that area to run wires? Maybe there's something y'all know that I don't but dang. Another reason I wanted panel off was to get a good look at mounting a 2nd battery. Anyone got any helpful hints? Rant over
 

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Do you have the 3 post buss under the hood? Pos-neg and keyed pos posts?
 
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Just run it to the bus bar under the hood. The hot is direct to the battery. no reason to fight all that stuff, that's what the bus bar is for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is the buss bar sufficient for 4awg wire? That's a lot of amps rolling though there. If so I will gladly run it through that but that still doesn't solve my 2nd battery and wanting to run a fuse block off of it. Thanks for the help so far though guys it's appreciated.
 

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I got a fish tape and ran it from the batteries to the front under the console it was easy try that no removing of anythning
 

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Easiest way to run heavy wire to the battery is beside to intake tubes. Just go to the passenger side and on the lower hump..... Under the whole between the driver and passenger there is an access panel.... Take the two pins out and jiggle it until it slides out like a draw..... Also a good time to make sure you factory harness isn't on the prop shaft and grease the prop shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great info so far guys. I did do the wire hanger to fish my first wire through. I guess I could do it for all of them.
 

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As mentioned, pull the passenger side panel off the center console for feeding wires. Best access I found to the battery was dropping the skid plate. $.02
 

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All good suggestions for how to get wires in the right place.

I've finished my accessory wiring...I think...and yup...it was a first class PITA!!!

It would have been so nice if Polaris had put a section of 1 1/2" plastic tubing up from the console, on top of the ducts, and into the firewall area...so we could simply pull wires through the conduit and to where we wanted.

I added one of the grommets behind the bus bar under the hood and found it easier to pull wire from there, under the dash and then feed it behind the console and on top of the ducts.

I taped my wiring harness to a 3' section of #12 red, solid copper wire and pushed that through the grommet and down into the cab. Then pulled the harness in and got it where I wanted it.

Always fun!!

Pirate
 

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Just wait until you try to put those panels back on...................I like your post title by the way lol. As far as using a fish tape running behind panels you can't see isn't the proper way to do things IMHO. Unless you know for sure where the wire lands and whats around it this isn't wise. Wires need to be clamped, tied, secured etc. Too many years working on airplanes I guess I just go to the extra trouble. Probably why I won't let anyone work on my stuff...............never quite good enough for me. As far as a 2nd battery I haven't tried hard but I don't see much space for one.
 

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I used some 1/2" DOT air line to run wires through that area, had it laying around. It was much easier to push the stiff line through, and it protects the wires at the same time. Mine is above the intake tubes, so it's out of harms way. I imagine you could use black pvc water pipe as well. It's stiff, yet a little flexible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nobody ever answered(atleast I don't think) about if it's safe to run the positive and negative wire from winch contractor to the hot buss bar? I talking about the 4awg wire that usually goes from battery to contractor.
 

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Nobody ever answered(atleast I don't think) about if it's safe to run the positive and negative wire from winch contractor to the hot buss bar? I talking about the 4awg wire that usually goes from battery to contractor.


My personal thought that would be a bit much for the buss bar! :frown2:
 
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Nobody ever answered(atleast I don't think) about if it's safe to run the positive and negative wire from winch contractor to the hot buss bar? I talking about the 4awg wire that usually goes from battery to contractor.
I believe the factory winch runs off of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I went ahead and did it the hard way and ran it all the way through to the battery. Removing the passengers side slot is so much easier and helps a ton for anyone that plans to run any wires through there. All I'm missing as far as wiring goes is finding a 2nd place for battery and running a fuse block off of it for some of my lights. Other than that just spending more money on accessories my general is coming together nicely. Enjoying it very much.
 

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Well I went ahead and did it the hard way and ran it all the way through to the battery. Removing the passengers side slot is so much easier and helps a ton for anyone that plans to run any wires through there. All I'm missing as far as wiring goes is finding a 2nd place for battery and running a fuse block off of it for some of my lights. Other than that just spending more money on accessories my general is coming together nicely. Enjoying it very much.
I got lucky and and figured out how to access that tunnel wiring my under the hood fuse panel directly to the battery.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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