[Pirate]

Dang Herdfan...back up a bit so I can see the whole bonnet. If you would please. Almost looks like one D-ring is behind the tire and the other is at the side of the tire?

Ummm...you need to get a gallon of Boiled Linseed Oil and a gallon of Hydraulic Fluid (any brand works) Mix the two and paint it on all the trailer deck surfaces, top and underneath.
This will keep the wood preserved and looking good. Put it on your calendar for once a year!

Pirate

 

[Herdfan]

Dang Herdfan...back up a bit so I can see the whole bonnet. If you would please. Almost looks like one D-ring is behind the tire and the other is at the side of the tire?

Ummm...you need to get a gallon of Boiled Linseed Oil and a gallon of Hydraulic Fluid (any brand works) Mix the two and paint it on all the trailer deck surfaces, top and underneath.
This will keep the wood preserved and looking good. Put it on your calendar for once a year!

Here you go. Both rings are in line with the tires.

Yeah I know about the deck. Was going to do it, but had to wait until the PT was dry. Then I got the 4:3 wheels and had to move the rings out, which meant 2 new boards. Then had to wait until they dried. Vicious cycle. I have 2 new weathered boards to replace the 2 with the rings. So when I get my new enclosed, I am going to replace them, pressure wash all of them and put some sealant on them. I have half of a 5-gallon bucket of Behr Deckover left from staining my deck this summer, so I am just going to use it.

 

[Pirate]

Got it! Thanks! I'm about 3 years behind on one trailer. The other wood deck trailer I've had since 2001...the deck is gone!! On the calendar for this Winter....

Pirate

 

[SUPRPIG]

Input greatly appreciated. I usually over build also so will be rethinking this. I Have e track on my trailer but will have to move it. Plenty of time my trailer and General are snowed in for the winter so will be a spring project. Narrowed it down to a couple other options.

https://www.etrailer.com/p-317-18900.html

https://www.etrailer.com/p-77314.html

with https://www.etrailer.com/p-EM09162-2.html

 

[Bill in Alaska]

Input greatly appreciated. I usually over build also so will be rethinking this. I Have e track on my trailer but will have to move it. Plenty of time my trailer and General are snowed in for the winter so will be a spring project. Narrowed it down to a couple other options.

https://www.etrailer.com/p-317-18900.html

https://www.etrailer.com/p-77314.html

with https://www.etrailer.com/p-EM09162-2.html

I use the ones in the second URL with the chocks. Works great.


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[MisterG]

SUPRPIG: I don’t understand why you would have to move the e-track. Just buy the rings to connect into the e-track.

Here’s my set up.

 

[Pirate]

MisterG,

Need to do something to protect that trailer floor....

Are yours bolts through E-track with nut on the bottom of the trailer? Or just wood screws?

I seem to recall on my first enclosed trailer...in 2008...I used bolts with fender washers and then sprayed the underside, where the bolts are...with undercoating?

Maybe one of the Flexseal products would work nicely. Hmmm...

Pirate

 

[MisterG]

I have some of the bolts going through the frame and then the others are through a plate on the underside. It’s definitely not going anywhere.
I do plan to put coin mat down this coming summer. It’s too cold to do it now!

 

[Pirate]

Minnesota...yup too cold now.

I have a 40x60 Toybarn, propane heat...so I'll be parking the new trailer in the shop to do all the upgrades!!

Sorta wondering where to spot the General, front to back. If you don't mind, How long is your trailer, inside and where to you spot your General?

Thanks,

Pirate

 

[MisterG]

Unfortunately, I have no shed to fit the trailer. I have a 16 ft. Trailer plus the v nose. It was a little trial and error by figuring how much tongue weight I had and overall balance. I was a little nose heavy to begin with and then moved back little by little until I got it in a spot that looked right and feels right when towing.

 

[Pirate]

Shed? ya know my wire, er BOSS, calls my 40'x60' clear span steel building...the Toybarn...a shed. Just completed a 20'x60'x15' carport to store the new motorhome in. She calls it the motorhome shed.

What's wrong with you people??? Geez!

Pirate

 

[AJsGeneral]

I was disappointed by the two posted by the OP. Only tie down to the E-track on one end. What good is that? Machine moves a bit, straps are loose.

I tried a set of straps that clipped into the E-track, then over the tire and to the E-track. Ratchet them suckers but good...every single time they came loose.
Hoping the bonnet style fixes that!!

Pirate

I wonder how you use them? Do you pull all the slack out of them before cranking the ratchets down?

Or do you leave enough slack so the strap gets a couple wraps around the ratchet?

I use the second method and have never seen one come loose. Lots of people use teacher straps incorrectly because they pull all the slack out then ratchet them tight. This allows the strap to slowly pull through the ratchet.


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[SUPRPIG]

SUPRPIG: I don’t understand why you would have to move the e-track. Just buy the rings to connect into the e-track.

 

[SUPRPIG]

My be-tracks are on the outside of my trailer

 

[Herdfan]

Shed? ya know my wire, er BOSS, calls my 40'x60' clear span steel building...the Toybarn...a shed. Just completed a 20'x60'x15' carport to store the new motorhome in. She calls it the motorhome shed.

What's wrong with you people??? Geez!

All good until she starts calling them her "she" sheds.😂😂😂

 

[Johnny 7]

I wonder how you use them? Do you pull all the slack out of them before cranking the ratchets down?

Or do you leave enough slack so the strap gets a couple wraps around the ratchet?

I use the second method and have never seen one come loose. Lots of people use teacher straps incorrectly because they pull all the slack out then ratchet them tight. This allows the strap to slowly pull through the ratchet.


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Was told many many years ago the propler way to use ratchet straps is to be sure you get at least 3 wraps around the ratchet cylinder, that way they have way less chance of working loose. Some of the materials that some of the straps are made of now are really slippery. Also make sure to lock your ratchet closed all the way.

 

[Pirate]

Yup, I was told by a rep for a tiedown company at the ROTR to always have at least two wraps around the axle of the ratchet before cranking it tight.

Pirate

 

[txrider]

Minnesota...yup too cold now.

I have a 40x60 Toybarn, propane heat...so I'll be parking the new trailer in the shop to do all the upgrades!!

Sorta wondering where to spot the General, front to back. If you don't mind, How long is your trailer, inside and where to you spot your General?

Thanks,

Pirate

hey pirate, i have a 24ft enclosed trailer. i have the weigh safe hitch on the truck. first time i loaded the sxs, i loaded it in the "middle" of the trailer. placed it where i thought it would balance the load best. looked at my hitch and i was just at the 10% mark. thought i should be just a bit heavier than that, so i moved the rig 12 in forward. literally 12 in forward and it added 125 lbs of tongue weight. i have been towing bikes, quads, rvs, and such all my life. i understand how to properly setup a trailer. but i was simply amazed that a 12 in move would affect tongue weight that much.