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Discussion Starter #1
I've been home for a month due to the Covid-19 pandemic so I found some time to finish projects around the house and start some new ones that I just plain wanted To Do. One of the To Do's was add some more bling to the YEET. I seen in the forum that a few of the Generals have Rock Lights installed and they look pretty neat. I Purchased an 8 light set of the Mictuning C1 RGBW Rock Lights off of Amazon and they arrived in a couple of days...so they must be essential items to Amazon.

I studied the forum to get ideas on mounting but no one seemed to cover that part. They just posted pictures of the after. Some mentioned that they just zip tied one or two lights up in the wheel wells and were done with it. Others drilled holes and mounted the lights with screws as the manufacturer intended. I decided to just get out and do it instead of overthinking it.

In the front wheel wells I looked for a place above the tire and found a gusset where two metal tubes of the cage were joined together. It looked like a good spot and then I found a second spot on the inner fender with access to the compartment under the hood of the Polaris where I planned to mount the controller.

I scrounged around the garage and found some lightweight angle bracket leftover from a garage door opener installation and made two small brackets as backing plates to clamp the light to the Gusset. Then I went to Lowe's and purchased an assortment of #8-32 stainless machine screws at lengths from 1/2" to 2" and some Nylock nuts to keep them tight. The kit came with some M4-25mm screws and nuts but I thought they would rattle off in no time.

65060

A 3" piece of 5/8" angle bracket with 1/2" hole and two 3/16"
holes drilled for #8-32 screws

65061

Bracket used to clamp the Pod light to the Gusset so that the light shines on the
shocks. An #8-32 x 2" machine screw in foreground and #8-32 x 1-1/2" in back
clamp the light to the Gusset without having to drill a hole.

65062

Another view of the light attached to the Gusset and a second
light above it mounted to the ABS fender well.

65064

This is a shot from the nose of the Polaris. The Nyloc nuts are
holding the second light to the wall and the cables penetrate
through the 1/2" holes . 1/2" holes are needed to accommodate
the connector at the end of the cable.

65066

I mounted the controller on the passenger side and installed two
lights in the same positions as on the drivers side front. I'll have to
tackle the 10 foot of slack in these cables later by cutting and splicing
as necessary.

65067

I temporarily connected the controller to my +12 volt battery charger
to test the lights. I chose the second light position thinking that it
would shine a bit of light out of the grill snout in the upper right
corner...I didn't want the light right in front of the grill because it
would be blinding. Unfortunately it was not that great of an effect.

65068

I had some metal repair tape left over from a duct work project so
I thought I would see if that would reflect the light better if I added
it to the inside of the grill..

65069

It worked great! Now on to the back lights tomorrow...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Yesterday I worked on mounting the rear lights. I did not want to mount the lights on the bed or fenders because the wires would stretch if the bed was tilted unless you run the wires all the way back to the pivot point and then forward to the mounting point. I already disassembled the complete bed to install a Corbin Euro Tail Light kit and once was enough. That leaves mounting the lights on the 2" square tubing that makes up the main chassis.

I started on the Drivers side and mounted one pod horizontally, on the side of square tubing, above the shock tower. I chose to drill and tap a hole for an #8-32 machine screw. My #8-32 tap was nowhere to be found so another trip to Lowe's was in order. Lowe's had two options an Irwin blister pack with a #29 drill bit and #8-32 tap or a Dewalt blister pack with 5 fancy drill and tap combination bits one of which was an #8-32. I purchased both Items because small taps are prone to break if you push or skew them sideways and I did not want to make two trips to Lowe's in one day.

The second light I mounted horizontally on the side of the square tubing, but tucked up close to the mud guard, while keeping the light pod from covering the VIN number that is stamped on the side of the square tubing. The mud guard gave me some fits trying to drill the hole with my 1/2" chuck, battery powered, drill. It is probably easy to remove the mud guard but there was enough flex in the mud guard to enable me to attach a tie-down strap and tighten it to give me clearance for the drill.

65099


On to the rear of the passenger side. The exhaust pipe runs exactly where I wanted to mount the light pod over the shock. Being an Electrical Engineer by trade it killed me to not have symmetry but I chose a position for the first light pod about 4 inches away from the exhaust pipe on the bottom of the frames square tubing. Hopefully the light pod will not be fried by the exhaust pipe (sometimes you just have to try things out). The second light I mounted in the same position as on the drivers side, tucked up close under the mud guard. Mounting this light gave me some fits...maybe I was just tired but on the last hole the bit kept wandering as I drilled a pilot hole. You have to be pretty close to your mark when you are mounting these light pods because they are an aluminum frame and don't allow for much slack. I tried a smaller drill bit (1/8") to start the hole and SNAP...down one drill bit. I finally got the pilot hole drilled and then used the fancy Dewalt combination drill and tap...SNAP! Now I am thinking I was really smart to buy the second tap at Lowe's.

65104


So from the sides the lighs look pretty good and don't blind anyone but from the back you can clearly see the pods if you were following the Polaris General closely. They will work well as an emergency strobe light on the white/yellow strobe setting. And maybe the lack of Symmetry is good because now I can highlight the suspension and the awesom 1 liter engine.

65105


The next step is to route the wires from the rear through the tunnel to the dash and then through the rubber cutout and into the front trunk where I mounted the light controller. The 11.5 ft wires attached to the LED Light Pods are not long enough to make it to the controller. They will end somewhere in the tunnel so instead of having a splice there I plan to purchase the extension cables that Mictuning sells [PN: B07Z39Y6KF] . I think it is better to have a water tight connector in the tunnel that it is to have a splice and at $13 for two extension cables I could not purchase the 5-pin Weatherpak connectors for the price of the ready made cables. The problem is Mictuning is out of stock on the extensions until 9 May 2020. I should be able to find other things to do until then.
 

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Great write up on your install. I agree we have seen a lot of finished project pics but not a lot of detail where folks are actually installing them.

I had some extra b-day money left over so ordered the same lights Corbo did (Sunpie, $30 on Amazon). Just six orange lights that match our color scheme, so I have to decide if I'm gonna go for a pair in both front wheel wells and just one pair between the rears, or if I go one per wheel well and one centered front and back.

I use the dump bed fairly regularly, so I think mounting the rears on the framing is a good idea. And I really liked the effect you had of the light showing through the side hood grilles. I also have some mirrored HVAC tape, so I'll use that tip if I go that route. Did those two lights (that show through the grille) add much to lighting on the ground?

Minnesota fishing opener at the cabin this weekend, but between this and my corner LED install, I might be spending more time on land than in the boat ;)
 

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GeneralOnIce , The lights that show through the grill illuminate in front of the tire. They also illuminate the head light which takes the color of the light around the edges also kind of a neat halo effect.

While waiting for the cables from Mictuning, I found the time to install my boat lifts and do some maintenance on the boats. Mothers day is just around the corner. That's my official start of boating season.
 

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Great write up on your install. I agree we have seen a lot of finished project pics but not a lot of detail where folks are actually installing them.

I had some extra b-day money left over so ordered the same lights Corbo did (Sunpie, $30 on Amazon). Just six orange lights that match our color scheme, so I have to decide if I'm gonna go for a pair in both front wheel wells and just one pair between the rears, or if I go one per wheel well and one centered front and back.

I use the dump bed fairly regularly, so I think mounting the rears on the framing is a good idea. And I really liked the effect you had of the light showing through the side hood grilles. I also have some mirrored HVAC tape, so I'll use that tip if I go that route. Did those two lights (that show through the grille) add much to lighting on the ground?

Minnesota fishing opener at the cabin this weekend, but between this and my corner LED install, I might be spending more time on land than in the boat ;)
So I bought two kits and still have four lights that I might add to my rock slides when I finally get around to that fad. I installed two in each wheel well. Problem is, i keep changing my mind on how I want to do them. Any rate, here is a pic on how I mounted them in the front. I purchased some 1/8 pop rivets that were 1 inch long. I drilled the holes in the frame and then popped them in. Then the second pic shows how I did the rear. The install is very solid and gives good light. The install point should be out of the line of fire for debris flying off the tires. At least on straight line running, with wheels turned, maybe not so much but that should be slower speeds. Good luck on your install.
 

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Also some good tips from Corbo, thanks. This sat on the sidelines as it took me 5-ish hours to install light controller and corner LEDS. And it friggin snowed two inches on fishing opener!

I should still have enough 3/4” self tapping stainless screws so I’ll try those first. Pop rivets are also a good idea so I’ll keep that in my back pocket. I was able to get underneath the front and rear a little to game plan. I can now better understand the pics you both provided. Weekend can’t get here fast enuff!
 

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Thx to both of you on providing ideas for light placement. Went pretty well, especially the wiring. Just for anyone in the future that decides they might want to use self tapping screws...Not quite as easy as it sounds when you drill into the frame. I would say #8 is a good size and you will need 1 1/4” length min. For a #8 it worked best to first drill a 5/32” pilot hole despite the screws being self tapping. They would strip out first otherwise.
 

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