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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, just about done with all my projects before the General's first big outing.

But today I got my Garmin GPS mount fabricated, ran a hot and ground wire up under the hood and to my "Hot" fused distribution block.


The "Hot" fused distribution block is the one on the right. I ran a #8 wire from the "Hot" terminal on the "Terminal Block" to my distribution block.

Right now there are only two circuits powered by my "Hot" distribution block. A hardwired USB power port and today the GPS.

But something really odd happened. When I push in a 5 amp fuse for the GPS circuit, I can hear and feel several of the relays in the Heater/Defroster start "clicking". Can't really tell what the relays are doing, but it is audible.

So I went to the wiring diagram and the "Terminal Block" is there, but only one wire that is from the Splice, Key Accessory. One wire RC3A goes to the Fuse Block and near as I can tell that goes to the "10A Accessory" fuse.

So that fuse looks like the "Switched" terminal post on the Terminal Block.

But there is nothing shown for where the "Hot" terminal post red wire comes from. Nor where the "Ground" terminal post black wire comes from.

The Service Manual says "The terminal block provides power to permanently installed accessory components." on Page 11.53

I find no wire from the battery Positive terminal of the size run to the terminal block.

So I'm thinking I should run another wire directly from the Positive battery post to my "Hot" distribution block. I can add a 30 Amp blade fuse to that wire and then each circuit connected to the "Hot" distribution block is fused at the block.

Soooo...after all that, I'm looking for input on where the Terminal Block wiring might come from and thoughts on running another hot wire from the battery.

Oh, and I am suspicious that the "Hot" terminal n the terminal block runs through a relay. It will light up a test light, and after turning on the GPS or turning on the key doing some diagnostics, there is no voltage at my "Hot" distribution block. Checked with test light and Voltmeter. So this is what led me to thinking separate hot wire from the battery.

Thanks,

Pirate
 

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Well, just about done with all my projects before the General's first big outing.

But today I got my Garmin GPS mount fabricated, ran a hot and ground wire up under the hood and to my "Hot" fused distribution block.


The "Hot" fused distribution block is the one on the right. I ran a #8 wire from the "Hot" terminal on the "Terminal Block" to my distribution block.

Right now there are only two circuits powered by my "Hot" distribution block. A hardwired USB power port and today the GPS.

But something really odd happened. When I push in a 5 amp fuse for the GPS circuit, I can hear and feel several of the relays in the Heater/Defroster start "clicking". Can't really tell what the relays are doing, but it is audible.

So I went to the wiring diagram and the "Terminal Block" is there, but only one wire that is from the Splice, Key Accessory. One wire RC3A goes to the Fuse Block and near as I can tell that goes to the "10A Accessory" fuse.

So that fuse looks like the "Switched" terminal post on the Terminal Block.

But there is nothing shown for where the "Hot" terminal post red wire comes from. Nor where the "Ground" terminal post black wire comes from.

The Service Manual says "The terminal block provides power to permanently installed accessory components." on Page 11.53

I find no wire from the battery Positive terminal of the size run to the terminal block.

So I'm thinking I should run another wire directly from the Positive battery post to my "Hot" distribution block. I can add a 30 Amp blade fuse to that wire and then each circuit connected to the "Hot" distribution block is fused at the block.

Soooo...after all that, I'm looking for input on where the Terminal Block wiring might come from and thoughts on running another hot wire from the battery.

Oh, and I am suspicious that the "Hot" terminal n the terminal block runs through a relay. It will light up a test light, and after turning on the GPS or turning on the key doing some diagnostics, there is no voltage at my "Hot" distribution block. Checked with test light and Voltmeter. So this is what led me to thinking separate hot wire from the battery.

Thanks,

Pirate
I ran a separate 8 gauge wire from the batter to a terminal panel under the dash. I installed a fusible link on this wire that will protect the circuit if it goes dead short to ground. I then powered my GPS and any other accessories I want to stay on with the Key OFF. The GPS gets its own fuse at the terminal block. The terminal panel under the hood should be 12v all the time so your first install should be OK. I don't have a heater but cant see what difference it would make. I do a ton of work on old cars, the fusible links I use all the time to protect old wiring. The fusible line size is always 2 wire gauge sizes smaller then the wire your protecting.The fusible link will burn up if the wire goes shorted to ground and will open the circuit saving the wiring its protecting and keeping from having an electrical fire. You can buy it by the roll at napa and crimp on the ends. I use 6 or so inches at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Rusty,

Thanks for the thoughts...but I went ahead with a change that I will document here...

First I removed my 8 ga red wire from the Hot post of the Terminal Block to my "Hot" distribution block.

Then went and spent about $50 at NAPA and Ace Hardware getting the pieces an parts for the task.

Here we go:



From left to right;

1. some red shrink tubing big enough to cover crimp connectors on #8 wire.

2. a 30 amp large blade fuse to use on the hot wire going forward.

3. a NAPA maxi fuse holder rated for as much a 60A. I went with it as it has the #8 wire I'm using to run power to my distribution block.

4. a package of butt crimp connectors that are too small. Need these ones for the #8 wire:



My first wiring pic turned out fuzzy...but I crimped a ring connector with a 5/16" hole. The bolts on the battery cables have a 5/16" bolt (or it may be metric) but 5/16" ring fit fine.

I covered the butt connectors and wiring with 1/4" and 3/8" split loom. Taped the ends and used small zip ties to keep things together. After getting all the wiring done, I put the 30A fuse in the fuse holder and used a zip tie to make sure the cap stays on.



I ran the split loom covered wire along the top of the other harnessed under the console and up under the dash:



I brought the wire through the firewall though another of the Grommet, Electrical - Cab I purchased and installed. Sure makes it easy to route wiring where you want!!! Then ran the new wire where the original had been run and connected it to my "Hot" distribution block.



Looking at this pic you can see the Grommet, Electrical - Cab that the dealer installed in order to route all the wiring harnesses for the heater/defroster accessory and the windshield wiper/washer accessory. To the right is the Grommet I installed to route the turn signal and horn wiring harnesses. Right behind the red cap on the coolant bottle. To the left, in amongst the relays is the second Grommet I've installed. This one carries the harness for my USP port and the GPS harness.

And here's a top view of my "Hot" distribution block the first circuit has a 5A fuse in the USB port circuit. Second circuit has a 3A fuse for the GPS power circuit.



So all should be good right? This is a completely separate circuit that does not interface with anything in the General wiring.

BUT...mount the GPS, it powers up...and a relay under the hood starts clicking, the blue LED lighting under the dash starts blinking and the blue LED at the bottom of the headlight switch is illuminated.

I am totally clueless as to why this is happening. The wiring diagram just doesn't isn't complete enough for me to track every wire down.

Thoughts? I sure don't want to have trouble next month a long way from home!!!

Pirate
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So gents....something just buzzed across my mind...and I'll ask your thoughts.

As I've noted the General Service Manual Wiring Diagram is not very complete...especially at the "terminal block" under the hood.

I've installed a brass bolt to use as "ground central" and I tied that to the black post, the most passenger side one, which I took to be "ground".

But now I wonder, is it? Do I have a floating ground and that's what making the relays click and the interior lighting blink?

Floating grounds will make you crazy...and I wonder if this is one?

Perhaps tomorrows project will be grounding the brass bolt to the frame and disconnecting from the "terminal block".

Thoughts?

I'll post what I learn tomorrow...gads...running out of time to get everything done to head to Idaho for the Lost River, Rally In The Pines on July 3rd.!!!!

Thanks,

Pirate
 

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I would like to be able to go through it all myself but from what i am reading you have done, it should all be good on the power (hot) side. The next area i would look is the ground. From the what i can see in your photo's it looks like everything is sharing the same ground stud. Is the ground stud grounded good enough? could you be backfeeding through your other circuits? Its just a thought.... Pretty hard to diagnose from my chair here haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
And I've looked at the Service Manual and the Wiring Diagram...and there's nothing on the Terminal Block.

So something tells me the black post is not a ground, but a circuit completion...or floating ground.

Gonna find out tomorrow morning!!!

Pirate
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
WoooHooo!!!

That was it. The far right (passenger side) post on the Terminal Block is not a ground.

Took my ground wire loose, routed it down though a hole in the "under dash floor". Found on the Driver's side upper round frame tube, there is a 1/4" hole about 4" from the firewall.

Took a peanut grinder with sanding disk an polished to bright metal. connected the ground and used a nut with integral star washer...so double the effort to get a good ground!!

Mounted the GPS...no clicking relays, no under dash blue LEDs blinking, no blue light on the headlight switch illuminated!!!

Here's a pic of the reinforcing rib welded to the side of the frame tube. Looking at it you can see the 1/4" hole that I was able to use to connect the ground for both my fused terminal blocks:



and he's a pic from a little further back so one can see the location of my ground bolt:



Pirate
 

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I was just getting ready to reply that the middle post should be ground,lol. Glad you got it.
 

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Pirate, can you tell me the brand of terminal blocks you have there? I want to know what amp I need to get i guess? Is 600v, 15A good enough or do I need bigger?
 
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