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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for advice. I have had my primary apart to install a gilomen kit, and twice now my spider nut, has backed off. I have tried red loctite, and have now tried the loctite that hunterworks recommends. And torqued to spec with a 3/4 torque wrench. Not sure what to do. Anyone else had this issue?
 

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Looking for advice. I have had my primary apart to install a gilomen kit, and twice now my spider nut, has backed off. I have tried red loctite, and have now tried the loctite that hunterworks recommends. And torqued to spec with a 3/4 torque wrench. Not sure what to do. Anyone else had this issue?
Did you take the spider off and reassemble?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Ya, I have had everything apart. this time is messed up the shims that go by the bearing. so I ordered new shims, and a new spider nut. Not sure where to go from here.
But to be clear, it came apart on its own the first time. all I had done was add weights and change the spring. Been a headache ever since.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I never had one back off again that I took apart and put back together, now I lathered it up with the 630 loctite. Make sure something is not cracked
Ok, I am using the 630 loctite. and i have been over it pretty good, but i will make sure to do a thourough inspection once again.
 

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If you just changed the fly weights & spring (as I've done also)there is no need to mess with the spider nut unless you noticed a problem & then you would have to re-torque the spider 1st(290ftlbs) otherwise it could release the jam nut, then do the spider jam nut(250ftlbs) this would have to be done on a bench with all the special tools (this is how I read it from the manual) can you run down your procedure for us, piccy's would help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you just changed the fly weights & spring (as I've done also)there is no need to mess with the spider nut unless you noticed a problem & then you would have to re-torque the spider 1st(290ftlbs) otherwise it could release the jam nut, then do the spider jam nut(250ftlbs) this would have to be done on a bench with all the special tools (this is how I read it from the manual) can you run down your procedure for us, piccy's would help.
Correct. I did not remove the spider nut when installing the new spring and weights, But a week or two after installing the clutch kit. The spider nut came loose. The unit was brand new when i added the clutch kit. So I am assuming it wasnt tight from factory, as like I said I never messed with it. And yes, I torqued the spider to 300, and the nut to 250. And i am using the LocTite that hunterworks recommends. So far, I have destroyed a primary bearing, the shims, 3 plastic washers, and a belt. This is the last go around. If it does it again, its getting a tack weld.
 

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Sounds like your doing everything right, time to think about stripping down all components & re-fitting them individually to see if you can find anything that won't bottom out properly, that's hanging up on a burr or what's not playing the game, checking main shaft & spacers for correct sizes & spec's, spacers hanging up, something heating up & moving, you have probably done most of this before but there's a reason somewhere & it could be something simple that's overlooked.
Another thought, correct no of spacers & in correct position
 

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Correct. I did not remove the spider nut when installing the new spring and weights, But a week or two after installing the clutch kit. The spider nut came loose. The unit was brand new when i added the clutch kit. So I am assuming it wasnt tight from factory, as like I said I never messed with it. And yes, I torqued the spider to 300, and the nut to 250. And i am using the LocTite that hunterworks recommends. So far, I have destroyed a primary bearing, the shims, 3 plastic washers, and a belt. This is the last go around. If it does it again, its getting a tack weld.
I'm thinking something is fooked up with you drive clutch spider nut or the shaft it screws on to, IMO a tack weld is not the solution from not only a balance standpoint but a tack isn't going to hold what is breaking 250 ft. lbs., you may need some new parts or a new drive clutch.


 

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Discussion Starter #10
well i spent about an hour cleaning the threads, to get every last bit of the old loctite off. and i also purchased a new jam nut. inspected and reinstalled everything last night. wont get to ride it till this weekend, Hopefully its fixed. As far as the tack welds, I think they will hold, and i also dont think it will have to much of an effect on the balance of the clutch. Alba racing has been welding them for years with no issues.
 

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Did you ever figure out what the problem was? the same thing just happened to me all I did was change weights and the spring. And then 15 min into the first ride The spider nut came off.
 

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I'm thinking something is fooked up with you drive clutch spider nut or the shaft it screws on to, IMO a tack weld is not the solution from not only a balance standpoint but a tack isn't going to hold what is breaking 250 ft. lbs., you may need some new parts or a new drive clutch.


This video is of a RZR clutch, not what the General comes with. The base you clamp in a vise, then set the clutch on...it has ribs that go into the tool slots.
Pirate
 

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Correct. I did not remove the spider nut when installing the new spring and weights, But a week or two after installing the clutch kit. The spider nut came loose. The unit was brand new when i added the clutch kit. So I am assuming it wasnt tight from factory, as like I said I never messed with it. And yes, I torqued the spider to 300, and the nut to 250. And i am using the LocTite that hunterworks recommends. So far, I have destroyed a primary bearing, the shims, 3 plastic washers, and a belt. This is the last go around. If it does it again, its getting a tack weld.
Sounds like time for the Dura Clutch. Just put one a Buddies 2019 G4 wow what a differences!
 
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