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and free shipping
wasn't sure about the two piece main section ??
 

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Good price. I have the FactoryUTV 1/2" kit on mine and the fit was perfect. Very impressed with their skids. I like the 1pc main section on the FactoryUTV but it is a bit more expensive. Ether way you can't go wrong with UHMW. :grin2:
 

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Factory UTV only on my cars$1K sounds expensive but guess what it costs to replace yer engine or trans cause ya bounced off a rock and cracked yer case Cheap insurance men! We all spend thousands putting worthless look good chit on our rides but yet some bitch about 1K to protect a 20-30k Machine
 

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Looked at the ebay item...don't like that split down the middle. Couldn't tell if the bolt holes are recessed like Factory UTV.

And as the General says...spending money on a good skid set is cheap insurance!!

To me...a good skid...like a Factory UTV UHMW is the first accessory to purchase. Was first on my 2009 RZR 800, second on my General cuz they weren't available yet!!
 

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I wrote this up for Johnny 7 in a PM, but here are my thoughts, guidance on installing a skid set on the General:

went with the Factory UTV UHMW skid plate set...the full coverage 3 piece set. And yup, went with the 1/2" thick. Why not?

I changed out my front A-arms with a set of SuperATV "high clearance" A-arms...so can't use A-arm guards.

I did get and install as set of the Factory UTV UHMW 3/8" rear A-arm guards.

Rivit Nuts provides you with a threaded insert, crimped into the frame tube. They provide about 5/16" of threads. So they aren't going to pull out or get damaged by vibration, etc.

Here is the tool and Rivit Nuts I went with from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-1442-Th...rivet+nut+tool

I used the 1/4 x 20 size Rivit Nuts and grade 8 1" long bolts.

Now, here's how I install them to get the best fit and proper alignment.

Remove the OEM skid plate and set aside the domed washers and bolts. These will be "self threading" bolts.

Follow the Factory UTV instructions and bolt their center section skid in place using the OEM domed washers and bolts.

Check and make sure the new skid is in the correct location so all the OEM bolts are in place and in the center of the domed washers. Looking up through all the other skid bolt locations, you should be looking right at the frame tubes.

Now, take a piece of tape...about 4" long, whatever kind of tape you have or like, and place a domed washer in correct orientation, in one of the skid holes. Use the tape to hold the domed washer in place.

Take a center punch and going up through the hole in the domed washer, put a good, centered punch in the frame tube. I like to do them two at a time, and do a pair of holes that match, side to side. So say the two most forward open holes first.

After the center punching, take a 3/16" drill and drill through the frame tube using the center punch to get the hole in the right place.

Now take a 3/8" drill and open the hole. Thread a Rivit Nut onto the mandrel, insert it into the frame tube, and use the tool to crimp the nut in place.

Do this for both the holes you have center punched. Now go ahead and install the domed washer and grade 8 bolt...finger tight or just a bit more.

Now work in pairs from front to rear and get all the new domed washer/bolts installed.

Now remove the OEM bolts, drill the hole out to 3/8", install the Rivit Nut and install the domed washer and grade 8 bolt.

I use my DeWalt 20V impact wrench to tighten all the bolts until the impact stalls. So say 35 to 50 ft-lbs. But with the Rivit Nuts, there is no damage to the threads...

There you have it. Your skid is held in place with grade 8 bolts, and it can be removed using the DeWalt impact in about 10 minutes.

The Factory UTV set comes with a steel "connecting plate" between the main skid and the rear skid. I put Rivit Nuts in those holes too!

The front skid...I installed the Rivit Nuts and bolts at the "tongue and groove" fit at the rear of the front skid. I then used clamps to bend the front skid up to the frame...and then followed my procedure for installing the Rivit Nuts.

All done...and you figure out what to do with the OEM skid!!

Did I cover everything?

Pirate
 

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Pirate always has very nice and clear rite ups! THANKS PIRATE!
 
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For the ones that's installed skid plates, how are you getting under? Lifting it on jacks? I've seen some where they put their ride on it's side...my luck I would bust my doors or roll it all the way over
 

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I would jack it up and use jack stands or maybe put rear tires on ramps then jack up front. Either way be safe about it we would miss you on here!
 

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MMX, if you were to get a sheet of UHMW material, say 1/2" thick, to make your own skid.

How do you bend the stuff to curl up around the front frame tubes say?

Curious.

Pirate
 

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Pirate, I would have to figure that out, when the time comes. If I couldn't rig up something to aid in doing so, I know a guy with a sheet metal break, that might would work.
 

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Installing Factory UTV skid plate tomorrow and going to use Pirate's method. I even bought the same tool and a bunch of different size riv nuts. I worked as a aviation mechanic and we used these all the time except we called them blind nuts.
 

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We use 3/8 thick and 1/2 to make mud flaps and splash fenders for are semis rears and just as stated mark the place you want the bend and clamp to a piece of angle iron or tube apply heat along the bend area and it will bend or form to the angle or tube then let cool and the bend or role will stay don't get crazy with heat and keep moving very easy to do!
 
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For the ones that's installed skid plates, how are you getting under? Lifting it on jacks? I've seen some where they put their ride on it's side...my luck I would bust my doors or roll it all the way over
Installed mine yesterday, although this method probably would not get OSHA's stamp of approval, lifted bucket, winched machine up, ratchet strap around each control arm and bucket, and chain from bucket around bumper (can't see the chain) - also put a ladder under the bucket in case a hydraulic line or valve failed.
 

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