I'm not a music nut or anything like that but as John Lennon said in "Nobody Told Me"
The lines "Nobody told me there'd be days like these / Strange days indeed / Most peculiar, mama" are in contrast to the old adage "My mother told me there'd be days like this."
Gotta love the G-Dead!!
Thanks for all the input fellas and the 7th time for the write up!!
"I've probably written this up half a dozen times or more...but installing your skid plate in the best way possible.... "
I have all the parts and new tools on the way (nothing like talking yourself into new tools ) I, like you and many others hate to not do things right and keep accessible, repairable and even redoable if necessary.
You say "bulletproof" the first thing I did before the Gen had 5 miles on it was put on a full set of ricochet A-Arm guards front and rear. The aluminum ones, I'm not sure the UHMW stuff is sufficient for the front guards anyway, unless they are really thick; on my ATV's my front A-arm guards have taken some major hits and survived. Back in the day before CV joints and boots (showing my age or experience) the guards weren't near as necessary those old solid axels were almost unbreakable, the trees and rocks needed guards from them.
Anywho, it only takes one time of ripping a CV boot or worse, then riding in mud and water a few miles not knowing it had been torn, then, even fixing it all yourself, still paying hundreds of dollars for the repair........ You get the guards, most manufactures are thin plastic dust deflectors.
Nah...the Factory UTV A-arm and Control Arm guards are 3/8" UHMW material. Got 'em on the rear of my 2016, 8000 miles and they have some good scratches on them...but that's it. Don't have the front as they ain't made for the SuperATV high arched A-arms.
I've done one for a friend, a few years back...the the replacement boot kit isn't that expensive. And not that difficult to do...
And I sure like my new Factory UTV rock sliders...a great solution for rocks. I'm not into going through tight trees...
Good to know and glad the UHMW has proven to all of you that it's that strong, because that's what we / I want. I had real good luck with the aluminum guards in the past, and again that is the first thing I do with a new ATV (now UTV). One CV boot, that leads to one CV joint repair pays for all those guards two-three times plus.
One thing that I did hate and from what I'm reading shouldn't happen with UHMW is when I'd take a beat up skid plate off, aluminum or steel, is that they were a b!tch to put back on because the shape had changed just enough that it was difficult to get the screw holes to line back up. I can't even image with one of these given the size of the plate.
Nope, you will not have that problem with UHMW skids. Install 'em like I described...and they'll go right back where they were.
My first UHMW on my 09 RZR800...first time out...smacked a good size rock. Oh crap what have I done??? Look underneath...looks like someone took
a big screwdriver and scratched the skid...whew!! I sold the RZR after 8 seasons...skid had a whole bunch of scratches...but nothing else!!!
So, if anyone is still paying attention to this thread. How did you install your skid plates, assuming you did it yourself. I don't mean how they install, I mean what was the simplest way to get at it for a normal person, no pit or lift:
Did you: raise up the front end, using a tractor bucket, use your winch to an over head brace and raise up, stand on end somehow, block and tackle in a shop?????
Would it hurt to put up on two wheels sideways, not on end?
I was thinking of just pulling up on some car ramps for an extra foot and doing it from my back ?
Just curious if someone found some simple way to ???? without super special equipment.
Don't worry regardless of how I do it extra supports, blocks, wheel chalks, what ever is necessary will be used, all safety will be followed.
When I took my skid plate off my wildcat I had the rear lifted up about a foot and was able to use a creeper instead of being on the ground. The General has more clearance to begin with so even jacking the back (or front) up a little should be plenty.
Yah, I'm thinking 4 car ramps facing out in opposite direction to keep as out of the way as possible, have to ware full eye protection while drilling, the thought of a jagged, hot piece of steel in my eyeball is not appealing. Was thinking of barrowing my brothers small-ish tractor with bucket and raising the front, be nice to do it from sitting or standing. I tried pitting a small pit in my garage when I was building my house, but the dam plumbing inspectors caught me before complete and saw all the "traps" weren't going in and the project was abandon, just needed 6 more hours.
When servicing ours we have 2 sets (4 total) of those heavy duty plastic Napa pickup ramps that we also use when servicing our Chevy Duramax pickup. They work great and are heavy duty. Many places sell them just make sure of the poundage rating.
Yep, I have one set of the plastic or what ever they are, maybe UHMW or what ever, but they are rated at 3300-lbs each and I use with my Dodge diesel truck. My other set I managed to get out of my dads garage before any of my 3 brothers did , they are 50 years old, metal, blue, dam heavy and always hurt you in some way when handling them, a cut from a sharp corner, ripped pants from a bolt sticking out...... safety was not paramount when these babies were made!! It may just be dad saying hello and snickering somewhere while I'm cursing a blue streak saying I'm throwing them away this time for sure!
I find it a lot easier to use the floor jack, get one end up, put foot long sections of RR tie under each tire, do the same at the other end.
Make sure trans is in Park and Spring Brake Thingy engaged...and go to work.
When done, you can just drive off the RR tie sections.
I used to do just that Pirate but after all my neck and back surgeries it is so much easier and faster to grab the plastic ramps put one in front of each tire and drive up and you are done and ready to go to work.
Whatever works best for you is all that is needed.