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Discussion Starter #1
So those who saw my posts from about a month ago where my shock exploded, I think I now know why.

I finally got it back yesterday and was installing it today and noticed that at full droop, the divider was below the shock body. So what I am thinking happened is that coming back from Panther Rock (Windrock) which is a very rutted and uneven trail, my rear suspension hit full droop and the divider caught on the bottom of the body. Then a short while later, it had enough and when I hit a bump, it gave up blowing the side of my shock out. See this thread: Ever see a shock do this?

Note: This pic is not even at full droop as the tire is still making some contact with the ground. So it could be worse.

So I am going to take my chances riding tomorrow, but after that it will not roll without some limit straps. Anybody have any they recommend?

66324
 

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For what its worth, Shock Therapy sells some awesome adjustable limiter strap kits. They aren't cheap, but well made. They had a video recently about them.
So at full droop, the shocks are fully extended, the same as when you go to install them. What confuses me is the crossover sleeve would be noticeable if it was below the shock body when assembling the new spring kit.
I bought a complete spring kit from them and the sleeve was nowhere near the end of the shock.
Is it possible the tender springs are installed at the wrong end of the shock? They should be at the top of the shock when installed.Im niot trying to insult your intelligence, I'm just trying to find an explanation as to your sleeve issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do you have your sway bars on?
Rear one, yes.

For what its worth, Shock Therapy sells some awesome adjustable limiter strap kits. They aren't cheap, but well made. They had a video recently about them.
So at full droop, the shocks are fully extended, the same as when you go to install them. What confuses me is the crossover sleeve would be noticeable if it was below the shock body when assembling the new spring kit.
I bought a complete spring kit from them and the sleeve was nowhere near the end of the shock.
Is it possible the tender springs are installed at the wrong end of the shock? They should be at the top of the shock when installed.Im niot trying to insult your intelligence, I'm just trying to find an explanation as to your sleeve issue.
It wasn't quite as low as you see it when I was putting the springs on, but I didn't have the weight pulling down on them either. I am wondering if I need to back off the pre-load a bit. I recently got new uppers (I don't call them tenders because in my mind that refers to springs who's sole purpose is to keep the springs in their pockets when fully extended) that are a bit stiffer than my original ST setup. I had lost most of my rear GC and in talking to ST it was most likely because I had added about 200# in the rear from my original order, so they sent me new uppers that were stiffer. And maybe with their recommended pre-load of 3" the stiffer upper was pushing the lower more than the original springs. I broke the shock on my second ride out with the new uppers.

So before I ride tomorrow I am going to undo my pre-load at least 1/2". Just going to Hatfield so I won't be pushing the suspension too much.
 

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Good luck and thanks for sharing.... good stuff to know. Man! That shock was “blowed up amigo!!!”
Kinda reminds me of Robbie Gordon’s water cooled shocks back in the day .....kabooooooom!
 

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That divide looks like its backwards, The longer end is supposed to go up, so that very thing can't happen. Unless I'm looking at it wrong
 

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I guess I was looking at it wrong but that divider shouldn't be able to drop that low, something isn't right
 

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So the shorter spring should be on top, Is that the case. Its hard to tell from that picture, it doesn't show the whole shock. But it looks like the shorter one is on the bottom and that would allow for the divider to come off the shock body. The longer one on bottom would make it ride higher.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So the shorter spring should be on top, Is that the case. Its hard to tell from that picture, it doesn't show the whole shock. But it looks like the shorter one is on the bottom and that would allow for the divider to come off the shock body. The longer one on bottom would make it ride higher.
They are both identical length. Go figure. Softer one is on top.

Edit: Now you are making me wonder if ST sent me the wrong springs when they recalibrated what I needed based on weight. Going to pull my old ones out and look. Supposedly the new ones were just stiffer, but with them you never know.

Edit 2: Went and measured the springs as they are sitting on the machine. Top spring is 5 5/8", bottom spring is 6". I also looked at my old top springs and I want to say it is longer than the one it replaced, but it is much softer.

To be honest, I am about done with ST. They make a great product, but their CS is just horrible. Five weeks to get a shock fixed is too long and had I not kept on them it probably would still be sitting there. If I decide to keep my General another couple of years, I am either going to order some Elka Stage 5's or go all out and get the HCR Long Travel kit. But both are lots of money to put into a 2.5 year old machine with 2500 miles. I love the G and none of the RZR's interiors come close, but if Polaris comes out with a 72" Pro XP 4-seat, I might just jump.
 

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They are both identical length. Go figure. Softer one is on top.

Edit: Now you are making me wonder if ST sent me the wrong springs when they recalibrated what I needed based on weight. Going to pull my old ones out and look. Supposedly the new ones were just stiffer, but with them you never know.

Edit 2: Went and measured the springs as they are sitting on the machine. Top spring is 5 5/8", bottom spring is 6". I also looked at my old top springs and I want to say it is longer than the one it replaced, but it is much softer.

To be honest, I am about done with ST. They make a great product, but their CS is just horrible. Five weeks to get a shock fixed is too long and had I not kept on them it probably would still be sitting there. If I decide to keep my General another couple of years, I am either going to order some Elka Stage 5's or go all out and get the HCR Long Travel kit. But both are lots of money to put into a 2.5 year old machine with 2500 miles. I love the G and none of the RZR's interiors come close, but if Polaris comes out with a 72" Pro XP 4-seat, I might just jump.
I would take pictures and send them to Justin and put the monkey off his back. I think they messed up and they should make it right. I feel they are more than likely at fault for the shock that blew up. These are the before and after my ST spring upgrade and clearly the ones on top are shorter. I think they will do the right thing by you, just let them explain how their kit is supposed work properly. They won't be able to. Remember, the sqeaky wheel gets the oil. I'd even ask for an expedited fix. Good luck
 

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So this was my spring kit front and back. All the upper springs were significantly shorter. I think they should send you a label to ship your shocks to them and make it right and send back overnight free of charge. But that's me.
 

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Here's a pic of one of my front shocks at full droop...machine on lift, wheels about 24" off the floor.

66354


Just wondering...did you just buy the springs and install them yourself? I sent all four shocks to STST and had them do the RIS 2 package install.

Herdfan, please remember that STST does business by you calling, they give you an appointment date. Your shocks have to be there the day before the appointment date.
The do your shocks that day, and ship them back to you that day.

I can get a pic of the rear shocks, but I recall the set up is the same.

Did you do the RIS 2 package.

Hmmm..
Pirate
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Pirate,

Yes did the full RIS2 back in April of '18 right after I got it. Back then all I was really carrying was a cooler and some recovery straps. Fast forward to now and I have 2 Kolpin boxes full of tools and recovery gear, the cooler, a rack and a spare. Added up to about 250# more than what I initially spec'd as my weight. As a result I had lost rear ground clearance, so I emailed them and ordered new rear uppers that were stiffer.

This stiffer upper is probably what pushed the lower and divider down to where it was in the pic. My pre-load is right at 3" where they say it should be.

One other issue was when it broke, after I got it home I noticed the left rear sway bar bracket was also broken. Don't know the order though, did the shock break and that broke the bracket, or did the bracket break and that let the shock drop too much and break. Will probably never know.

I am going to pull them off today and measure for limit straps. Thinking PRP or SATV.

Also, yes ST makes appointments for the RIS, but not for repair. Just send them in and get in line and they get to them when they get to them. I found a local (100 miles) guy who has a UTV shock shop and he likes to work on their stuff so he can learn what they are doing. Almost had them send my parts back but the said the delay was because they weren't able to get parts from Fox. So I figured if ST can't get parts, then the local guy can't get parts so I let them keep them. But next time they go straight to local guy.

Like I said, if I decide to keep it, probably going to get RC2's this fall. But an 72" XP Pro 4 would tempt me for sure.
 

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Here is another alternative to Shock Therapy this company is Very good and Very responsive and services all the top brands as well as have parts for them in stock. Travis also offers advice and solutions to suspension issues without an appointment.

 

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Herdfan,

Is the 3" pre-load from the top of the lock rings to the top of the threads? Lemme know and I'll go check mine. She's on the lift while I'm on the grader repairs road on the place wiped out by 4.6 inches of rain in three days.

Can't remember where you ride. But here in Colorado, and in SD, UT and AZ, they are opening some of the trails from 50" to 60". General is 62.5" but haven't gotten hung up yet. But a 72" wide machine is going to shut the owner out of a lot of the good trails.

So it goes...

Hmmm...not trying to be a PITA, but I have found that folks like DuraClutch, Shock Therapy Suspension Tuning and Gilomen Innovations ( people I have spend time working with) have done their research in the dyno room and out in the world. These are the people I tend to work with. If there is a problem most are very responsive. I dunno, just my approach.

Pirate
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I measured the 3" from where the top of the shock body down to the top of the spring. That is the spec from ST.

I also have a DC and Gilomen's tune. Wasn't super happy with his clutching as it is more for higher speeds. We mainly ride Hatfield McCoy and Tennessee (Windrock, Tackett's, Royal Blue - never going back to Brimstone) and there are plenty of 72" machines out here. Right now with 4+3's, I am over 64" so no way am I getting through a 60" gate.

And yes ST knows what they are doing and make a very good product, but compared to Terry and Todd (Hunterworks) they need to up their CS game a bit.
 

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Herdfan,
I missed something...the DuraClutch set up is for mostly speeds below about 30 mph. But is capable of running as fast as you can...just not all day! Or do you have a GI clutch kit?

I've not used a GI clutch kit. But the DuraClutch set up is fabulous!! The smooth starts, the seat-of-the-pants feel of "shifts" as the belt moves up the sheaves is very nice!! Really good to know if your working through a tough spot, it starts jerking...and you can feel if you're right at a shift point. Just a experiential thing.

I have wondered, working for the 4th largest electric utility in the country, on the power house side, and lots of contractors, large and small....whew.... If ST isn't getting to the same spot Vendetta is...the business is growing fairly quickly...an means that you must adjust your business plan accordingly. Not sure if Ernie, at ST, is still the top technical expert..and trying to manage getting customers needs met in a timely fashion. I've seen lots of failures there in the past 44 years. Hope they will get it figured out. Sure would hate to see them go out of business. Just sayin'

Pirate
 

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Since you no longer have a front sway bar you could do like I did. I attached my limit strap to the shock mount (bracket lift in my case) and then with spacers to the now vacant sway bar link mount. It works perfectly and does not require than much longer of a bolt on top, and does not rub on the springs. You can look at the pictures in the thread below. I bought 17" SuperATV straps.


 

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A bit of rubbing isn't really an issue. Typically it happens when you have the steering wheel turned all the way in either direction. How often and for how long does one have the wheel turned all the way? Probably not long enough to be an issue. This was my experience running 30s. But I moved back to 28's to get all the power to the ground as possible.

Just sayin'

Pirate
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Since you no longer have a front sway bar you could do like I did. I attached my limit strap to the shock mount (bracket lift in my case) and then with spacers to the now vacant sway bar link mount. It works perfectly and does not require than much longer of a bolt on top, and does not rub on the springs. You can look at the pictures in the thread below. I bought 17" SuperATV straps.
I like the look of that. Nice job.
 
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