Because they are about 2 months out for work at their shop.
Shock Therapy DRS Spring Installation / Review
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Since I'm in AZ I plan on taking the machine into Shock Therapy and have them do the install of the dual rate springs. For those of you that have either installed yourself or sent the shocks in etc., how many have bothered with checking or readjusting the shocks settings after the 100-300 miles break-in? If you did re-adjust was there a significant change in the initial settings to warrant re-adjusting? I don't want to mess with it so, if need be, would probably go back to Shock Therapy if a re-adjustment is really necessary.
Simple pre- load adjustment after they settle, did mine one time and they are good to go. You can easily do this yourself, just Jack it up and crank your pre-load a smidge and done.
I have the RIS on my General and am pretty happy with it but not as much as it seems most people are. When I picked it up each corner was differently set up, so I tried to follow the directions and make it their baseline. That helped a lot but still wondering if there is better. Anyone have a G2 that can share their measurements on all 4 corners? I know it can vary by how much weight in vehicle but just wondering what people run theirs at. I will try to pull my measurements with examples of where I am taking them at and put on this thread hopefully this weekend.
On my 2019 with Fox shox and ST dual rate springs I'm at 13.5" in rear 14.5" in front. I strive to keep my machine as low as possible and still have ample clearance. I'm in off camber situations every ride and feel that keeping my center of gravity as low as possible while still clearing obstacles is a priority.
PS, I did have to swap the rear upper springs one time with Shock therapy. The first set was totally sacked out after install. They promptly sent me new rear upper springs which are better although I still believe I have the pre-load adjusted more than I would like to achieve specified ride height. I contacted ST again and sent pictures, They told me if I went to a higher spring rate in the rears I would lose ride quality. I still believe I could use about a 50lb heavier spring in the rear but have left it as is for now. And yes I did explain how much weight I carry in back. And I am running 30" terabyte which actually measure about 28.5"- 29".
General XP 4 1000 Factory Edition, Shock Therapy, Rugged Radio, Factory UTV Skid, Hunterworks
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521 Posts
I installed ST, used the Amazon spring compressor, similar to the one shown, BUT much cheaper (In several ways)
Was able to complete the install, just had to fine tune where the spring was compressed from, tend to pull at an angle.
Was able to complete the install, just had to fine tune where the spring was compressed from, tend to pull at an angle.
Just a thought, I spent much more time clocking my ST springs to achieve a nice straight spring stack/divider than I did setting final pre-load. Everything looked good on the bench, perfectly straight, but once installed on the machine they kind of looked like a slinky. Started at the recommended 180deg offset but ended up rotating springs nine ways to Sunday before I was satisfied that my spring divider was putting the least amount of stress on the shock body as possible. I ended up using a quality strap wrench to adjust coils without taking the shocks off. I just jacked it up to take the load off the springs as much as possible and independently rotated upper and lower coils until the spring divider was traveling perpendicular to the shock body. I also used a rubber mallet to tap the spring bases slightly on the divider which helped also.
I did the same thing once I got the ride height set after the ST springs settled. My problem was similar to deanrowski in that the springs would put a side load on the sliding divider sleeve. Combine that with off road riding on muddy trails and the shock body would badly wear in short order.
For me, I found it easier to pull the shocks and adjust the springs out of the vehicle. I splurged and bought the same shock spring compressor that Shock Therapy uses. I used a form of feeler gauge to keep the spring gap the same all the way around the shock. Then I was able to draw the spring set down to almost full compression to make the sure the spring didn't end up to one side as the springs compressed. That took a lot of trial and error, but i finally found the best compromise.
For me, I found it easier to pull the shocks and adjust the springs out of the vehicle. I splurged and bought the same shock spring compressor that Shock Therapy uses. I used a form of feeler gauge to keep the spring gap the same all the way around the shock. Then I was able to draw the spring set down to almost full compression to make the sure the spring didn't end up to one side as the springs compressed. That took a lot of trial and error, but i finally found the best compromise.
This happen with WE or Fox, or both?
I am running QS3 fox, can't speak for walkers
I don’t know if I’ve read about the WE wearing like the Fox
General XP 4 1000 Factory Edition, Shock Therapy, Rugged Radio, Factory UTV Skid, Hunterworks
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521 Posts
I have WE, no issues with sideload, But did notice my ride height was off by 1/2 in the rear, going to adjust today, after work, going to try and adjust on the G4. Now need to start breaking it in🚒
I bought the Shankly Spring Compressor Tool a number of years ago, and they work just fine.
I have found it easiest to put the top eye of the shock in my vise with the soft jaws and support the other end on a block of wood.
Makes it easy to compress the springs and use the tool to adjust the shock.
Not expensive and work!
Pirate
I have found it easiest to put the top eye of the shock in my vise with the soft jaws and support the other end on a block of wood.
Makes it easy to compress the springs and use the tool to adjust the shock.
Not expensive and work!
Pirate
Can you guys share what the best clocking positions you ended up with that worked the best.
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439 Posts
I left mine set how they show on their videos. The spring dividers in the back have some pretty good lean to them, the fronts are okay.
I had to pull my shocks so many times to get the springs installed that, frankly, I was tired of messing with them.
They say that the springs will take a one time "set" after 100 miles or so. At that time I will mess with them again to minimize rubbing on the shock body.
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It's going to very greatly from machine to machine .
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Which seems strange to me. Either the springs and dividers can sit level or they can't. You'd think that the issue could be resolved by ensuring all contacting surfaces are flat and level.
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