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I decided to share my observations on Installing Shock Therapy DRS springs on my 2020 4 1000 Deluxe w/ Fox 2.0 Podium QS3 shocks and give my thoughts on the kit and ride.
I want to start by saying the reason I decided to go with the DRS kit only and not the RIS System is because most of my riding is done on dirt roads and old railroad beds and nothing hardcore and all I wanted to do was to get rid of the annoying sag of the stock springs and at the same time smooth out the potholes and washboard. I had my first chance to run the buggy this weekend and give it a proper test and all I have to say is WOW. This set up is so much better than stock and I can only imagine how nice the RIS system would be on top of it. I was running down dirt roads around 50mph and intentionally trying to hit the bad spots and the suspension was sucking them right up. I couldn’t even feel the medium to low potholes and washboards and would just feel a small bump on the deep ones where it used to rattle the teeth. The car also now sits more level and the ride height is where it should be with my tire size. I am so glad I went this route over tender springs. Its is defiantly money well spent.
Ordering the shocks was a breeze on ST website. I put in all my weights and told them my riding style and gave them as much information as I could. The site said things could be delayed but I received my kit in 4 days to Michigan. Opening the Box everything was packed nice in foam, and they threw in a few ST Swag Stickers. My only minor complaint with this is they do not provide the installation directions and you need to go to their website for the information.
As for the installation it wasn’t a hard job just a time-consuming job to get everything set up right. I started off my doing my research. I watched many Shock Therapy Installation videos and other Videos out there, read threads on this forum, and printed out and read the directions for the non XP General off their website. I hear of some people doing this job without a spring compressor, but I just don’t see doing it without one.
As for spring compressors the one they use in their video (Press Style)makes it look so easy and I’m wishing I had one like it but didn’t want to spend that much money for one. It looks like this:
I picked up the one shown below 1st at Harbor Freight, and it WILL NOT WORK. The hooks are too big for the ST springs which hug the shock body so do not get this one. AutoZone sells the same one so Amazon is probably the way to go of you are using handheld models.
I ended up going with the style shown below which was a little pricey and worked for me using the smallest jaw size. It fit the springs nicely, but I still had to monkey with it through the process.
Below are a couple other models I’ve read on this forum that work as well at 1/2 the price:
Installation:
On the front shocks I set the preload and crossover rings to ST recommended starting point and then compressed the springs and was able to get them put on the shocks. The only issue I had is with my spring compressor it was bending the spring towards the compressor and was having trouble getting the rings on the tops of the springs. I solved this by putting the compress lower on the spring and leaving myself room at the top to push the top part of the spring over by hand then slowly letting off the compressing and it went into place. Pushing on the side of a compressed spring I’m sure wasn’t the safest way to do this. On the rear shocks I got smart and ignored setting the preload rings to the recommended distances and had the preload rings about one inch away and the springs went right on. Then what I did was just compress the spring until it would come ¼” down the top spring collar then hand crank in preload till it tightened up and repeated till I got to the proper measurement. I felt totally safe with that method because if the spring compressor let loose everything was still in place.
ST says to set the start of the top and bottom springs 180 deg apart and that’s a good starting point. One thing to check right after you get the springs on the shocks is to see if the springs have clearance around the crossover rings. 3of 4 of mine did and one the spring was pushed up tight to the crossover ring. On the one that was off I ended up compressing one spring and rotating the other spring until the crossovers were more centered in the spring. This is easier to do before you put the shocks on the car.
Other than that, the install was straight forward. The toe trick ST shows in their videos to get the lower shock bolt in didn’t work well for me, but I got them in. They make it look easy, but they do a ton of them where as I’ve done one.
Adjustments for Preload and Crossover rings:
ST recommended ride heights for the non XP general was 12.5 in the rear 13 in the front. I made the assumption that is based off 27” stock tires so I added 1” to those numbers based off my 30” tires(measured 29”). You do need to settle the suspension and should take the measurements with the driver in the car. Watch the ST video on this process. To change the preload in the rear I jacked up the car and used my spring compressor to take some of the load off the springs and made the adjustments with the adjustment wrench. On the fronts there wasn’t much room so I took the shocks back off and too the vice I went and adjusted them there. One thing I want to point out is on the directions for the non XP General it says for in the front 1” of preload equals 2” of ride height and in the rear 1” of preload equals 1” of ride height. I went by that on my 1st adjustment and found my front measurement was dead on and my rear moved double. Therefore, I don’t believe the directions are correct. It should say 1” of preload equals 2” of ride height both front and rear. Once I had the ride heights then I adjusted the crossover rings. I found it easy to do while on the car. Because my floor jack was there and handy I did jack up or lower the car down slightly to get the rings in between the coils for easy spinning.
These are just my thoughts for whatever they are worth. I typed this 100mph so will spell check it later…lol
I want to start by saying the reason I decided to go with the DRS kit only and not the RIS System is because most of my riding is done on dirt roads and old railroad beds and nothing hardcore and all I wanted to do was to get rid of the annoying sag of the stock springs and at the same time smooth out the potholes and washboard. I had my first chance to run the buggy this weekend and give it a proper test and all I have to say is WOW. This set up is so much better than stock and I can only imagine how nice the RIS system would be on top of it. I was running down dirt roads around 50mph and intentionally trying to hit the bad spots and the suspension was sucking them right up. I couldn’t even feel the medium to low potholes and washboards and would just feel a small bump on the deep ones where it used to rattle the teeth. The car also now sits more level and the ride height is where it should be with my tire size. I am so glad I went this route over tender springs. Its is defiantly money well spent.
Ordering the shocks was a breeze on ST website. I put in all my weights and told them my riding style and gave them as much information as I could. The site said things could be delayed but I received my kit in 4 days to Michigan. Opening the Box everything was packed nice in foam, and they threw in a few ST Swag Stickers. My only minor complaint with this is they do not provide the installation directions and you need to go to their website for the information.
As for the installation it wasn’t a hard job just a time-consuming job to get everything set up right. I started off my doing my research. I watched many Shock Therapy Installation videos and other Videos out there, read threads on this forum, and printed out and read the directions for the non XP General off their website. I hear of some people doing this job without a spring compressor, but I just don’t see doing it without one.
As for spring compressors the one they use in their video (Press Style)makes it look so easy and I’m wishing I had one like it but didn’t want to spend that much money for one. It looks like this:
I picked up the one shown below 1st at Harbor Freight, and it WILL NOT WORK. The hooks are too big for the ST springs which hug the shock body so do not get this one. AutoZone sells the same one so Amazon is probably the way to go of you are using handheld models.
I ended up going with the style shown below which was a little pricey and worked for me using the smallest jaw size. It fit the springs nicely, but I still had to monkey with it through the process.
Below are a couple other models I’ve read on this forum that work as well at 1/2 the price:
Installation:
On the front shocks I set the preload and crossover rings to ST recommended starting point and then compressed the springs and was able to get them put on the shocks. The only issue I had is with my spring compressor it was bending the spring towards the compressor and was having trouble getting the rings on the tops of the springs. I solved this by putting the compress lower on the spring and leaving myself room at the top to push the top part of the spring over by hand then slowly letting off the compressing and it went into place. Pushing on the side of a compressed spring I’m sure wasn’t the safest way to do this. On the rear shocks I got smart and ignored setting the preload rings to the recommended distances and had the preload rings about one inch away and the springs went right on. Then what I did was just compress the spring until it would come ¼” down the top spring collar then hand crank in preload till it tightened up and repeated till I got to the proper measurement. I felt totally safe with that method because if the spring compressor let loose everything was still in place.
ST says to set the start of the top and bottom springs 180 deg apart and that’s a good starting point. One thing to check right after you get the springs on the shocks is to see if the springs have clearance around the crossover rings. 3of 4 of mine did and one the spring was pushed up tight to the crossover ring. On the one that was off I ended up compressing one spring and rotating the other spring until the crossovers were more centered in the spring. This is easier to do before you put the shocks on the car.
Other than that, the install was straight forward. The toe trick ST shows in their videos to get the lower shock bolt in didn’t work well for me, but I got them in. They make it look easy, but they do a ton of them where as I’ve done one.
Adjustments for Preload and Crossover rings:
ST recommended ride heights for the non XP general was 12.5 in the rear 13 in the front. I made the assumption that is based off 27” stock tires so I added 1” to those numbers based off my 30” tires(measured 29”). You do need to settle the suspension and should take the measurements with the driver in the car. Watch the ST video on this process. To change the preload in the rear I jacked up the car and used my spring compressor to take some of the load off the springs and made the adjustments with the adjustment wrench. On the fronts there wasn’t much room so I took the shocks back off and too the vice I went and adjusted them there. One thing I want to point out is on the directions for the non XP General it says for in the front 1” of preload equals 2” of ride height and in the rear 1” of preload equals 1” of ride height. I went by that on my 1st adjustment and found my front measurement was dead on and my rear moved double. Therefore, I don’t believe the directions are correct. It should say 1” of preload equals 2” of ride height both front and rear. Once I had the ride heights then I adjusted the crossover rings. I found it easy to do while on the car. Because my floor jack was there and handy I did jack up or lower the car down slightly to get the rings in between the coils for easy spinning.
These are just my thoughts for whatever they are worth. I typed this 100mph so will spell check it later…lol