[RSVLT]

Been having some rear end noise that sounded like a bad CV axle. Checked the axles, everything is solid there. Greased the driveshaft in the rear and all the grease came out of this one spot. I’m new to working on these things, was hoping someone with more experience could help me out here. Also can see some of the splines from the drive shaft. Is this normal? I am in the process of dropping the skid plates to clean all the junk out of there right now and investigate further. Only 300 miles on the machine, seems odd for something to wear out so quick

 

[lueck89]

Just went through this a few weeks ago with a different forum member. His front diff seal was bad and drained it dry... IMO start there. Drain/check fluid for chunks/shavings/level in both the trans and front diff. Refill and see if noise goes away. After that it could be the support bearing on the driveshaft that's above the skidplate (kinda centered in machine) check/grease that... after those items it's most likely internal parts of the trans/diff.....

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[Edmonster]

My guess is that some of that debris in the picture is rubbing somewhere. you can definitely see how the yolk has varied rubs lines.

 

[RSVLT]

My guess is that some of that debris in the picture is rubbing somewhere. you can definitely see how the yolk has varied rubs lines.

My guess is that some of that debris in the picture is rubbing somewhere. you can definitely see how the yolk has varied rubs lines.

I’m hoping cleaning all that debris out will help. Kinda disappointed that the dealer didn’t handle that before they sold it to me as I haven’t had this thing off the pavement yet so the debris under there is from the previous owner.

 

[RSVLT]

Just went through this a few weeks ago with a different forum member. His front diff seal was bad and drained it dry... IMO start there. Drain/check fluid for chunks/shavings/level in both the trans and front diff. Refill and see if noise goes away. After that it could be the support bearing on the driveshaft that's above the skidplate (kinda centered in machine) check/grease that... after those items it's most likely internal parts of the trans/diff.....

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Fluids are good. One of the first things I always check

 

[lueck89]

Fluids are good. One of the first things I always check

Anything on the magnets?

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[RSVLT]

Anything on the magnets?

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Nothing. CV axles have a fair amount of play in them. Heard that’s normal, Never owned anything with CV axles before though so I’m not exactly sure what is acceptable. I’m tearing into the rear end as we speak. Will keep updated and any input is much appreciated!

 

[Toxic-21]

Been having some rear end noise that sounded like a bad CV axle. Checked the axles, everything is solid there. Greased the driveshaft in the rear and all the grease came out of this one spot. I’m new to working on these things, was hoping someone with more experience could help me out here. Also can see some of the splines from the drive shaft. Is this normal? I am in the process of dropping the skid plates to clean all the junk out of there right now and investigate further. Only 300 miles on the machine, seems odd for something to wear out so quick

The grease coming out of the one spot is normal, although very silly.
Polaris did not design the output shaft or the yoke, with a grease passage, to completely lubricate the joint.

The splines showing is normal, it is a slip joint.

 

[RSVLT]

The grease coming out of the one spot is normal, although very silly.
Polaris did not design the output shaft or the yoke, with a grease passage, to completely lubricate the joint.

The splines showing is normal, it is a slip joint.

Thank you very much for clearing that up. I removed the skid plates, cleaned all the crap out. Looks much better but still have the rear end noise. Most noticeable at 8mph, goes away at high speed. No vibration or other symptoms. hate to trailer it an hour to the closest dealer but they sold me it this way. I haven’t even got to take it on the trails because I’m worried something is gonna fly apart.

 

[Toxic-21]

Thank you very much for clearing that up. I removed the skid plates, cleaned all the crap out. Looks much better but still have the rear end noise. Most noticeable at 8mph, goes away at high speed. No vibration or other symptoms. hate to trailer it an hour to the closest dealer but they sold me it this way. I haven’t even got to take it on the trails because I’m worried something is gonna fly apart.

Your Welcome.
I'm sorry your having an issue with your unit.

 

[TMR XP4]

View attachment 73124
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View attachment 73123
Been having some rear end noise that sounded like a bad CV axle. Checked the axles, everything is solid there. Greased the driveshaft in the rear and all the grease came out of this one spot. I’m new to working on these things, was hoping someone with more experience could help me out here. Also can see some of the splines from the drive shaft. Is this normal? I am in the process of dropping the skid plates to clean all the junk out of there right now and investigate further. Only 300 miles on the machine, seems odd for something to wear out so quick

Im guessing we are talking about a 2020 general. By sounding like a bad cv axle do you mean its a clicking or ratcheting sound?You might check to see if those clutches have been updated. They were bad from the factory and had belt slapping issues. Mine would also make a ratcheting sound sometimes. But mine have been great since Polaris did the update. Pull that clutch cover and check it out. Not sure this is your issue. But something to look at.

 

[RSVLT]

Im guessing we are talking about a 2020 general. By sounding like a bad cv axle do you mean its a clicking or ratcheting sound?You might check to see if those clutches have been updated. They were bad from the factory and had belt slapping issues. Mine would also make a ratcheting sound sometimes. But mine have been great since Polaris did the update. Pull that clutch cover and check it out. Not sure this is your issue. But something to look at.

How do I tell if they’ve been updated? I inspected the clutches and I put a new belt on last night but same rear end noise. It is a weird ratcheting/grinding noise that happens once per tire revolution at low speeds.

 

[Papermaker]

Sounds like a CV joint to me

 

[TMR XP4]

How do I tell if they’ve been updated? I inspected the clutches and I put a new belt on last night but same rear end noise. It is a weird ratcheting/grinding noise that happens once per tire revolution at low speeds.

Im not sure if you tell they have been updated by just looking at them. I would call the dealer and ask if they have been updated. If you have the Xp model there was a update. Also at 8mph you should be in low range. Does this sound happen in low range and high range? Might just have tp take it to the dealer and make them take care of it. For what they charge for these things it should have thoroughly inspected and obviously wasn't.

 

[Pirate]

Oh, and Toxic the expert in so many areas...didn't note that the grease coming out of the slip joint is in line with the zerk. So most of the grease you put through the zerk came out of the splines
right at the zerk.

There is just a tad bit of slop in the spline fit. So if you can, put a pump of grease with the zerk at top, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock and that will get grease into more of the splines.
But just one pump of the grease gun is more that enough. If the splined connection is good and tight, No radial slop? then the next paragraph is the way to go.

Now, none of the other spline connections on the machine have grease zerks, axles, front diff. For my CCI Driveline shafts the carrier bearing doesn't have one. Back at the trans, where the
joint you tried to grease is located...probably what Polaris was after was to keep water and debris out of the slip joint. So if you don't have one, get a "needle tip" for your grease gun and just
pump a little grease into the splines at the the end of the driveshaft with the needle tip in the splines on the output shaft. a little time consuming, but a good way to seal the connecting point
and keep it as sealed as you can.

In fact, my CCI Driveline shaft install instructions tell one to put RTV on the splines of the front diff input shaft, pinion shaft. Then put the forward drive shaft over the input shaft and the RTV
will keep water out of the connection. This one is not a slip joint.

Just thoughts,
Pirate

 

[rockman]

Your noise could be your brake pads rattling.
Common problem.
Does the sound go away when you mash the brakes?

 

[RSVLT]

I ruled out brake pad rattle a while back…starting Monday I will be replacing axles, a-arms, ball joints and bushings all around. Need to get the general back in working order after my tip over accident last weekend. If the noise still persists I may start looking at a driveline upgrade. Pirate, are you happy with the CCI?

 

[brad99superd]

The grease coming out of the one spot is normal, although very silly.
Polaris did not design the output shaft or the yoke, with a grease passage, to completely lubricate the joint.

The splines showing is normal, it is a slip joint.

Not really adding to the convo but was just gonna say due to a local parts store (bending my front yoke with a press trying to swap a Ujointt) I ended up just buying a new prop shaft for my Sportsman 570 in 2020 right from Polaris, the old shaft did not have the grease passage/ring inside the rear yoke but the new one was a new design and did have a passage so grease goes around the whole shaft/splines. Much much better design.

 

[Pirate]

RSVLT.
I ruled out brake pad rattle a while back…how did you do that? Adding the Hillman springs between the pads?

Replacing axles. If you want the best. Get a set of Turner Cycle Nitro axles for the rear. Larger diameter, one more ball in each CV joint. I go for bullet proof, these are. They make front axles too,
but I'm running OEM haven't found a reason to change out yet.

A-arms Any particular reason? Fronts, of course the adjustable camber. The forward move forget it. The rear? I'm still OEM, Tried the SuperATV with adjustable camber. They didn't tell me in two long chats that I simply must run their axles. Any other axle and they bind up to the point you cannot turn the axle/hub. And, I really didn't want the 1.5" move to the rear.

Ball joints I'm using RCV ball joints. Recommended to me back in 2016 when I got the General. Adjustable, rebuildable, guaranteed for life. In going on 10,000 miles, I check, but have only gotten
on slot of adjustment. Well put together! No complaints at all.

Bushings all around. Super Dave's makes excellent bushings of Delrin (I think). I notice Boss Bearings is now offering bronze bushings. Think I'm going to try them.

Need to get the general back in working order after my tip over accident last weekend. If the noise still persists I may start looking at a driveline upgrade. Pirate, are you happy with the CCI?
Absolutely thrilled with my CCI Driveline driveshaft set. I ordered them in December 2016. Installed them and have had no issues at all. Quiet, no vibration and three CV Joints. My General came
with three U-Joints. Did a lot of learning on Phasing driveshafts using U-joints. From an engineering standpoint, it can only be done in one plane. Vertical or Horizontal. Unfortunately the General
comes with offset in both planes. The CV Joint is the solution and CCI Driveline can provide you with those!!

This is my two cents worth. Everyone of your items I have tried different setups and these were the ones that work the best for the Pirate.

Pirate

 

[RSVLT]

RSVLT.
I ruled out brake pad rattle a while back…how did you do that? Adding the Hillman springs between the pads?

Replacing axles. If you want the best. Get a set of Turner Cycle Nitro axles for the rear. Larger diameter, one more ball in each CV joint. I go for bullet proof, these are. They make front axles too,
but I'm running OEM haven't found a reason to change out yet.

A-arms Any particular reason? Fronts, of course the adjustable camber. The forward move forget it. The rear? I'm still OEM, Tried the SuperATV with adjustable camber. They didn't tell me in two long chats that I simply must run their axles. Any other axle and they bind up to the point you cannot turn the axle/hub. And, I really didn't want the 1.5" move to the rear.

Ball joints I'm using RCV ball joints. Recommended to me back in 2016 when I got the General. Adjustable, rebuildable, guaranteed for life. In going on 10,000 miles, I check, but have only gotten
on slot of adjustment. Well put together! No complaints at all.

Bushings all around. Super Dave's makes excellent bushings of Delrin (I think). I notice Boss Bearings is now offering bronze bushings. Think I'm going to try them.

Need to get the general back in working order after my tip over accident last weekend. If the noise still persists I may start looking at a driveline upgrade. Pirate, are you happy with the CCI?
Absolutely thrilled with my CCI Driveline driveshaft set. I ordered them in December 2016. Installed them and have had no issues at all. Quiet, no vibration and three CV Joints. My General came
with three U-Joints. Did a lot of learning on Phasing driveshafts using U-joints. From an engineering standpoint, it can only be done in one plane. Vertical or Horizontal. Unfortunately the General
comes with offset in both planes. The CV Joint is the solution and CCI Driveline can provide you with those!!

This is my two cents worth. Everyone of your items I have tried different setups and these were the ones that work the best for the Pirate.

Pirate

RSVLT.
I ruled out brake pad rattle a while back…how did you do that? Adding the Hillman springs between the pads?

Replacing axles. If you want the best. Get a set of Turner Cycle Nitro axles for the rear. Larger diameter, one more ball in each CV joint. I go for bullet proof, these are. They make front axles too,
but I'm running OEM haven't found a reason to change out yet.

A-arms Any particular reason? Fronts, of course the adjustable camber. The forward move forget it. The rear? I'm still OEM, Tried the SuperATV with adjustable camber. They didn't tell me in two long chats that I simply must run their axles. Any other axle and they bind up to the point you cannot turn the axle/hub. And, I really didn't want the 1.5" move to the rear.

Ball joints I'm using RCV ball joints. Recommended to me back in 2016 when I got the General. Adjustable, rebuildable, guaranteed for life. In going on 10,000 miles, I check, but have only gotten
on slot of adjustment. Well put together! No complaints at all.

Bushings all around. Super Dave's makes excellent bushings of Delrin (I think). I notice Boss Bearings is now offering bronze bushings. Think I'm going to try them.

Need to get the general back in working order after my tip over accident last weekend. If the noise still persists I may start looking at a driveline upgrade. Pirate, are you happy with the CCI?
Absolutely thrilled with my CCI Driveline driveshaft set. I ordered them in December 2016. Installed them and have had no issues at all. Quiet, no vibration and three CV Joints. My General came
with three U-Joints. Did a lot of learning on Phasing driveshafts using U-joints. From an engineering standpoint, it can only be done in one plane. Vertical or Horizontal. Unfortunately the General
comes with offset in both planes. The CV Joint is the solution and CCI Driveline can provide you with those!!

This is my two cents worth. Everyone of your items I have tried different setups and these were the ones that work the best for the Pirate.

Pirate

i pulled the brake pads out and drove around the property (taking it easy of course.) still the same noise.

RSVLT.
I ruled out brake pad rattle a while back…how did you do that? Adding the Hillman springs between the pads?

Replacing axles. If you want the best. Get a set of Turner Cycle Nitro axles for the rear. Larger diameter, one more ball in each CV joint. I go for bullet proof, these are. They make front axles too,
but I'm running OEM haven't found a reason to change out yet.

A-arms Any particular reason? Fronts, of course the adjustable camber. The forward move forget it. The rear? I'm still OEM, Tried the SuperATV with adjustable camber. They didn't tell me in two long chats that I simply must run their axles. Any other axle and they bind up to the point you cannot turn the axle/hub. And, I really didn't want the 1.5" move to the rear.

Ball joints I'm using RCV ball joints. Recommended to me back in 2016 when I got the General. Adjustable, rebuildable, guaranteed for life. In going on 10,000 miles, I check, but have only gotten
on slot of adjustment. Well put together! No complaints at all.

Bushings all around. Super Dave's makes excellent bushings of Delrin (I think). I notice Boss Bearings is now offering bronze bushings. Think I'm going to try them.

Need to get the general back in working order after my tip over accident last weekend. If the noise still persists I may start looking at a driveline upgrade. Pirate, are you happy with the CCI?
Absolutely thrilled with my CCI Driveline driveshaft set. I ordered them in December 2016. Installed them and have had no issues at all. Quiet, no vibration and three CV Joints. My General came
with three U-Joints. Did a lot of learning on Phasing driveshafts using U-joints. From an engineering standpoint, it can only be done in one plane. Vertical or Horizontal. Unfortunately the General
comes with offset in both planes. The CV Joint is the solution and CCI Driveline can provide you with those!!

This is my two cents worth. Everyone of your items I have tried different setups and these were the ones that work the best for the Pirate.

Pirate

I pulled the brake pads and drove to the end of the driveway, being careful to not need brakes. Still the same noise. Replacing the front a arms because the front driver side lower was bent in the recovery or may have been bent previously on the ride. Not sure. Replacing the rear a arms because I figured I might as well do it all at once and I have rhino 2.0 axles just sitting in the corner of the garage ad backup.