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Might be a little over complicated there, but it would work. If you haven't gotten the fuse block yet, I would go with a #5026 Blue Seas. That has more positive connections and also supplies a nice ground block too if needed. Keeps things pretty neat.
I don't see any reason to separate a 24 hour and switched circuits separately in your case with light bars. You can just supply the whole fuse block with a Continuous duty solenoid (see my previous posts in this thread) from battery +. You can run a circuit breaker just above your accessory load in amp (take your wattage and divide by 12 volts to get amps). You should be no more than 60 amps though or you're overrunning the charging system anyway. you may only really need 40 or 50 amp.
The solenoid can be triggered from the "Accessory" power of the General. That way the fuse block will be active with the key on.

Wire the continuous duty solenoid like this:

Battery + to input on your circuit breaker
Then from the circuit breaker to one of the LARGE terminals of the Continuous duty solenoid
The other large terminal goes to positive input of the fuse block
Wire one of the small terminals directly to the "accessory" terminal of the General (the wire that powers up with the key on)
Ground the other small terminal to chassis ground.
Wire the Fuse block Ground terminal to chassis ground.

Each one of your light bars can be run through one positive post of the fuse block. You can run BOTH the positive feed for the light bar AND the switch to one terminal since the fuse block will be controlled by the solenoid anyway. You run through one fuse for each light bar that way.

Use a switch and relay for each light bar wired like Post #18 to ensure your switches last a long time. if you run directly through the switch to power the bar without a relay, the contacts will eventually burn out. A relay solves this issue. Holler if you have any issues. :grin2:
 

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thanks! 6g and 10g wire should be plenty correct?
 

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I'd use 6 gauge from the battery through the circuit breaker, and to the fuse block if possible to be safe and allow for expansion later on. If you already have a battery cable coming up from the battery to the factory bus bar, you could run from there and use 8 gauge at a minimum since it's a very short distance. I'll usually use a high quality stereo supply wire with the thick insulation on it in that case. Nice and flexible. You can order some nice crimp-on copper eyelets in 5/16" for the gauge wire you are using and fill them with solder after you crimp them to make a real nice connection.

As for the feed and ground of the SMALL terminals of the solenoid, those can be 14 or 16 gauge wire. There is no real amperage going on the that circuit so heavy wire is not needed. :grin2:
 

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Let's see now....

Yes the Blue Sea fuse blocks are excellent. And the metal jumpers are very handy.

Because I was looking to the future...I purchased two of the blocks that you are showing in the drawing. Mine are installed on the surface under the hood. Like this:


One is "hot" all the time.

One follows the ignition switch. That meaning the power to the block comes from the battery either by way of a relay or as Longslyde does it a solenoid. Either will work just fine.

For both the hot block and the switched block use on hot wire directly from the battery. I used a #10 stranded copper wire with red jacket.

Run that to one side of the hot block and take a wire from another point, that is hot and run that to a relay or solenoid.

Then use the Polaris Orange with White stripe "Accessory" wire to trigger the relay. Thus when you turn the key to "ON" the Accessory wire is hot, triggers the relay and your "switched" fuse block is hot.

This way does a couple of things. You're not tapping into a circuit breaker or fused circuit in the General wiring harness. You don't need rocker switches except for the accessories you choose. And each of your accessories will be fused at the Blue Sea blocks...so no hunting for the fuse to see if something has blown on. Another tip, using the Blue Sea blocks, eliminate the inline fuse on any accessory you install using a circuit on the Blue Sea blocks.

I would go with a 30 Amp relay or solenoid, that way plenty of current for your accessories.

Towards the upper right corner of the pic you will see my "ground" bolts. I purchased a 1/4 x 20 brass bolt and passed it through the under dash plastic. On the under side is a #10 stranded copper wire with black plastic jacket. That leads to another bolt that passes through a hole in a frame bracket. I took the area of the bolt down to polished metal so as to have a good ground connection. On the top side every two ground wires I added a brass nut. Thus insuring good grounds through the brass bolt.

One more thing I would do is purchase a RockfordFosgate terminal for the positive battery post. It allows you to add the #10 for accessories simply by stripping 1/2" of the wire, push it into one of the ports and tightening the set screw. A very clean and complete connection. Here's a link to the one I'm using that I purchased from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PK9MIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If your not familiar with relay wiring...here's a diagram:


Think I covered all your questions.

Pirate
 

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That's a lot of spare fuses there Pirate! ;) Just playin around. lol. No harm in being prepared... :)
 

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Longslyde,

Yup no reason to be unprepared! I actually bought the Blue Sea fuse blocks when I had the RZR 800...and never used them. So...into the General they went!

I've only had the machine three years now...who knows what else I might want to add?

But I really hope I'm done....uh-huh, yeah right!

Pirate
 

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I think you might have gotten the connector from me if it has a black, red, and a red with white tracer wire. If so, your wiring should be set up with a relay to run the light bar. If the light bar came with it's own harness and has a relay already in it, you can break it out of the harness and wire it up to the pulse connector just like a factory polaris accessory would be. If you don't have a realy, you can just pick up a univeral 30 amp relay to use in this application. They have numbered pins on them. The look like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-88069...t=&hvlocphy=9020126&hvtargid=pla-568857234362
Then if you're light bar just has a power and ground wire, set it up like this:

For the switch:
Wire center accessory power from pulse bar (red with white tracer) to the input of the switch (pin 2 or center terminal usually)
Wire the output of the switch to pin 85 of the relay. (usually pin 3 or bottom pin)
Ground pin 1 to chassis ground so your LED works in the switch. (you will only have this extra pin if you have a "lighted" switch. Usually top pin. otherwise you will only have an input and output) Contact me if the switch you're using has more than 3 terminals. it will work also, but there are a couple jumpers you will need to connect.

Switch part is done!

Then for the relay:
wire pin 30 of the relay to the Bottom Pulse bar wire (Constant positive solid red wire). Place the fuse in line of this wire.
Wire Pin 87 (Not 87a if your relay has one) to the positive input wire (red) of the light bar
Wire pin 86 to chassis ground

Ground the light bar negative wire to the top terminal (black wire) of the connector and you should be golden!

Done! The light bar will work with the key on and not overload your accessory circuit. Feel free to pm me if you run into problems. Hopefully this helps a bit...:grin2:
I sure did Longslyde! Thank you again! Thanks for the advice, I know paint and body, if you ever need help there I’m your gal. When it comes to electrical work it might as well be written in Greek lol I wired up some stuff on our rzr with no problems so I’m going to attack the General now
 

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I sure did Longslyde! Thank you again! Thanks for the advice, I know paint and body, if you ever need help there I’m your gal. When it comes to electrical work it might as well be written in Greek lol I wired up some stuff on our rzr with no problems so I’m going to attack the General now
Sounds good, holler if you get stuck! And thanks again! :grin2:
 

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I'm wiring a fusebox into my 2019 G2 Deluxe with Longslydes great video help and was wondering if I could grab power from the pulsebar with a 2 wire ( Accessory and ground) pulseplug to the solenoid or would it be better to run these off of the studs?
 

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harrug,
Not sure what the "pulseplug" is. I own a 2016 Deluxe, and I know it doesn't have one....

But I don't think there is any reason not to use the three connection buss bar on the Passenger side of the under hood space. In my General those are completely taken up by the Heater/Defroster, Wiper/Washer accessories and I can't even see the buss bar with all that wiring in the way. So I have run a 10 ga red hot wire from the battery and a 10 ga black ground wire to the frame on the Driver side front wheel well.

Then you can use relays to operate the accessories and either the General Accessory circuit (White with an Orange stripe) to trigger the relay or a switch.

Just how I wound up doing things.

Pirate
 

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harrug,
Not sure what the "pulseplug" is. I own a 2016 Deluxe, and I know it doesn't have one....

But I don't think there is any reason not to use the three connection buss bar on the Passenger side of the under hood space. In my General those are completely taken up by the Heater/Defroster, Wiper/Washer accessories and I can't even see the buss bar with all that wiring in the way. So I have run a 10 ga red hot wire from the battery and a 10 ga black ground wire to the frame on the Driver side front wheel well.

Then you can use relays to operate the accessories and either the General Accessory circuit (White with an Orange stripe) to trigger the relay or a switch.

Just how I wound up doing things.

Pirate
Pulse plug was probably a bad choice of words. My 19 has the pulsebar which I have the plugs to make my own wiring. I thought since the accessory and ground wires that turn on the solenoid to power up my fuse box are not high amp I could grab power from there. The main power comes off the battery stud with a breaker in line. I could use the accessory and ground stud but this seemed easier to me as long it would be ok to do.
 

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I'd go for it! Doesn't seem like it will be a problem.

If you're going to put in a distribution block, with fuses. That's good! I use the Sea Blue Systems blocks. I have two, one that's hot and one that's switched via a relay.

A nice thing, it has allowed me to get rid of the accessory fuses and get them in the distribution block. So easy to check when something doesn't work!

Pirate
 

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I'd go for it! Doesn't seem like it will be a problem.

If you're going to put in a distribution block, with fuses. That's good! I use the Sea Blue Systems blocks. I have two, one that's hot and one that's switched via a relay.

A nice thing, it has allowed me to get rid of the accessory fuses and get them in the distribution block. So easy to check when something doesn't work!

Pirate
That’s what I wanted to hear! All my goodies came today and it’s suppose to warm up a little so hopefully I can get at it this weekend.
 

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Post a few pics so we know what your project looks like complete. Lots of people think about how to do these kinds of projects.
 

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I'll sure try when I get it done. Didn't get anything done yesterday cause it was still to cold out for me, hopefully today will be better!
 

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Dang, life does get in the way doesn't it? I have about $4700 in "parts" waiting in the shop for putting the General back together after a hard fall on the Driver's side the firs week of November in Moab.
But I've been busy putting in a new cattle guard and Wife's "living room remodel". Appt with CPA on Wednesday. And then God willin' and the creek don't rise and I'll get to the General!

Pirate
 

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Not sure where I lost power.
I added a 20" light bar , two 4" pods and LED strips inside.
these are all wired to a Fuse Block.
I tried to feed the fuse block from Orange(keyed) wire on a Pulse Plug to Pulse Bar.
Have Polaris Overhead Stereo plugged into Pulse Bar (separate plug)
Have Wiper/washer plugged into pulse bar (separate plug)
and Heater Blower motor Plugged into Pulse Bar (separate plug)
I cannot find fuse that blew 10amp accessory fuse under seat is not blown.
Anyone know of another fuse in the pulse bar?

I plan to add Circuit breaker and Relay to power Fuse Block.
Where did you loose power? Because it just happened to me as well? I check the fuse on the pulse bar and the accessories fuse by the battery.
 

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I'll sure try when I get it done. Didn't get anything done yesterday cause it was still to cold out for me, hopefully today will be better!
Did you ending using the Pulse Bar to connect to the solenoid? I am thinking of doing the same thing :)
 

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Yes I did, made a plug for the wires needed to hook up to the solenoid, works great
Perfect! So you pulled the Keyed hot and ground from the pulse bar, did you run your primary hot all the way from the battery, or did you do a jumper from the lug that feeds the pulse bar ?
 
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