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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure where I lost power.
I added a 20" light bar , two 4" pods and LED strips inside.
these are all wired to a Fuse Block.
I tried to feed the fuse block from Orange(keyed) wire on a Pulse Plug to Pulse Bar.
Have Polaris Overhead Stereo plugged into Pulse Bar (separate plug)
Have Wiper/washer plugged into pulse bar (separate plug)
and Heater Blower motor Plugged into Pulse Bar (separate plug)
I cannot find fuse that blew 10amp accessory fuse under seat is not blown.
Anyone know of another fuse in the pulse bar?

I plan to add Circuit breaker and Relay to power Fuse Block.
 

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There is one right on the pulse bar itself. Covered by a rubber cover. But if that one is good, then double check that accessory fuse under the seat a bit closer to make sure it's good.

Just a note, the accessory wire in the pulse bar is designed to run relays only. Not to actually power anything unless all that is on that circuit is VERY low power. The fuse block should be run to the battery for supply power with a relay/solenoid for control. The relay/solenoid would be controlled by the orange wire which only needs a small amount of power, but that connects the fuse block to full battery power to supply the fuse block. :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Longslyde -Can I supply theRely/ Fuse box from the #6wire supplying the hot lug on the Pulse Bar?
 

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Thanks Longslyde -Can I supply theRely/ Fuse box from the #6wire supplying the hot lug on the Pulse Bar?
Yes, you can. Run from there to a solenoid that is controlled from the accessory wire and you're golden! I'd recommend putting a circuit breaker inline from the pulse + lug to the relay just to be safe. no more that 60 amp, less if you know what your fuse box load will be. :grin2:
 

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Not quite sure of the question Longslyde answered,

But the Orange with white stripe accessory wire that is part of the General wiring harness should only be used as the trigger for a relay, which then sends power to accessories you list.

I would recommend getting Rocklford Fosgate battery terminals like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PK9MIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a link to the Blue Sea Systems fuse blocks I prefer. I have one under the hood that is hot all the time, and one that is switched via a relay triggered by the orange accessory wire.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VELERM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then run a #10 hot wire up to the relay and ground the fuse block with another #10 wire to ground.

This way you have the power and the ground in a wire size that can handle the load.

Just thoughts,

Pirate
 

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Not quite sure of the question Longslyde answered,

But the Orange with white stripe accessory wire that is part of the General wiring harness should only be used as the trigger for a relay, which then sends power to accessories you list.

I would recommend getting Rocklford Fosgate battery terminals like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PK9MIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a link to the Blue Sea Systems fuse blocks I prefer. I have one under the hood that is hot all the time, and one that is switched via a relay triggered by the orange accessory wire.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VELERM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then run a #10 hot wire up to the relay and ground the fuse block with another #10 wire to ground.

This way you have the power and the ground in a wire size that can handle the load.

Just thoughts,

Pirate
Yes, sorry for not typing it out better. But you can grab power for the fuse panel from the POSITIVE (Constant) lug (Stud) of the pulse bar. Use the "accessory" wire to control the solenoid. So like this with a solenoid...

Wire the constant positive lug of the pulse bar to one of the large terminals of the continuous duty solenoid. (Recommend a circuit breaker in this wire to be safe)
Wire the other large terminal of the solenoid to the positive of the fuse block.
Wire the accessory power of the pulse bar to one of the small terminals of the solenoid.
Ground the other small terminal.
Ground the fuse block to chassis ground.

Hope that helps. :grin2:
 

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Longslyde,

Well...I'm confused. What is the "pulse bar"?

And what would you use a solenoid for instead of a relay?

Lemme think...a solenoid is triggered by a small current and closes the circuit to pass large current to a starter motor....so a lot of amps. A relay is triggered by a small current and then passes current up to 30, 40 as high as 60 amps. So that should be enough for the accessories we hang on our Generals.

Hmmmm....

Pirate
 

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Longslyde,

Well...I'm confused. What is the "pulse bar"?

And what would you use a solenoid for instead of a relay?

Lemme think...a solenoid is triggered by a small current and closes the circuit to pass large current to a starter motor....so a lot of amps. A relay is triggered by a small current and then passes current up to 30, 40 as high as 60 amps. So that should be enough for the accessories we hang on our Generals.

Hmmmm....

Pirate
Ok, so the pulse bar is used on the 2019 General and the 2018 and up Ranger. It looks like this...


This bus bar is really nothing more than a fancy version of the old 3 pole junction block that is on the 2018 and prior Generals.

And yes you can run relays but I have switch to continuous duty solenoids for ease of installation. A "Continuous" duty solenoid is really a relay that can handle higher current. although the higher current capability is not needed, they facilitate a much easier installation since the wires are all mounted by eyelet terminals which make a cleaner finished product imo. Even when using the plug that comes with some of the relays out there. THe wide flat spade terminals needed for the higher amp relays are also tougher to find but not impossible.
There's nothing wrong with either way of installation but I've found the solenoids last longer in most situations. Not saying it HAS to be done this way so to each their own of course.

So to clarify, the OP asked if he could grab power from the battery power lug supplying the "Pulse" bar, and the answer is yes. And the solenoid, or relay, can be controlled from the accessory terminal just as it would be from the older junction block.
 

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Very interesting. I'm not sure if my 2016 Deluxe has those or not? I recall the bus bar with three male thread lugs on it. But yes, its so buried in the heater/defroster, wiper/washer accessories that he dealer installed, I've not really looked. I simply ran #10 stranded wires to my Sea Blue Systems fuse bars and used a relay for the switched one. And there is a relay for the UTV Inc. Fan override kit.

I understand where you are coming from now.

Didn't watch all your video...to danged much going on this evening. But do you show the type solenoid you are using?

Thanks for the education!

Pirate
 

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The 2016 would just have the 3 pole junction block. 2019 was the first year for the pulse bar on the General.

You can use a couple different styles, BUT they MUST be continuous duty rated. Can't stress that enough lol! A starter solenoid looks identical but will burn out under continuous duty use. here's a couple styles...

https://www.amazon.com/CONTINUOUS-S...ocphy=9020124&hvtargid=pla-592635646234&psc=1

and

https://www.supplyhouse.com/White-R...-16-Ohms-Coil-Resistance-12-VDC-Isolated-Coil

Those links are just for references' sake. Look around on where to get them. I just grabbed the first pictures I found so you know what they look like. :grin2:
 

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What's the wiring of those solenoids? Load wire in and out on the large terminals. Trigger wire on one small terminal and ground on the other?

Thanks,

Pirate
 

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Thanks Longslyde,

Not to be a PITA, but I've found that the more of a complete explanation I give in my posts...the better chance that members look into the situation and how it can work for them!

Same for me learning about relays...

And as another forum I'm a member of..."this post isn't worth anything with out pictures"...how true that is!

Thanks again,

Pirate
 

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.....not sure how to take that exactly...:|

I try to offer help where I can for guys wanting to tackle some projects that they would otherwise have to pay some else to do if they really wanted it done. I am still in a full time job that requires me to travel extensively. So in the brief down times I do check the forums and offer help where I can. I don't always have time to search out and post exact pictures. So if you are hinting at not posting unless pics are included, then I will humbly bow out and not clutter the threads up any longer. Not sure if that's what was meant, but I can take a hint if it was.
 

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Longslyde,

Don't take it wrong. Its always nice to have pics, but if time does not allow that...well it doesn't!!

I was working when I began with the RZR Forum in 2008 and retired in 2011. So I try to go overboard in providing everything to help others be successful!

On every forum, everyone needs everything they can get their hands on to be successful. If you don't have time, don't worry about it!!!

Post what you can...there are so many new technologies popping up and applying to our machines, and problem areas we all own with our machines...

Pirate
 

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Hey guys, I sure appreciate these posts. Our 19’ has the pulse bar and I’ve purchased the pulse connectors off eBay. I’m not an electrical guru in any sense. pictures along with explanations are awesome for some of us, but even without pictures your guys help is appreciated! �� “ Pulse accessories “ are such a rip off from Polaris. I’m having a hard time trying to figure out how to wire in a rocker switch for a light bar I’m wiring into the pulse bar.
 

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Melanie,

Your project should be fairly simple. Most of the switches have three wires.

one is ground

one is power to the switch

And one is power out to the accessory.

You can purchase the same connectors at NAPA and probably other parts houses.

Looking at the Polaris Pulse Connector on ebay. The connectors seem to come with all black wires, colored wires or just the crimp connectors and you choose the wire color.

The crimp style alloy you to use the color wire you choose. But to use them correctly you need the crimping tool. I tried with some success using needle nose pliers and solder...but the correct tool makes it a lot easier and neater.


Now, depending on how much current the light bar will draw, you may need to use a relay to move that much power.

Give us more info on your project and we can help you get it wired in. Not that difficult.

Pirate
 

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I think you might have gotten the connector from me if it has a black, red, and a red with white tracer wire. If so, your wiring should be set up with a relay to run the light bar. If the light bar came with it's own harness and has a relay already in it, you can break it out of the harness and wire it up to the pulse connector just like a factory polaris accessory would be. If you don't have a realy, you can just pick up a univeral 30 amp relay to use in this application. They have numbered pins on them. The look like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-88069...t=&hvlocphy=9020126&hvtargid=pla-568857234362
Then if you're light bar just has a power and ground wire, set it up like this:

For the switch:
Wire center accessory power from pulse bar (red with white tracer) to the input of the switch (pin 2 or center terminal usually)
Wire the output of the switch to pin 85 of the relay. (usually pin 3 or bottom pin)
Ground pin 1 to chassis ground so your LED works in the switch. (you will only have this extra pin if you have a "lighted" switch. Usually top pin. otherwise you will only have an input and output) Contact me if the switch you're using has more than 3 terminals. it will work also, but there are a couple jumpers you will need to connect.

Switch part is done!

Then for the relay:
wire pin 30 of the relay to the Bottom Pulse bar wire (Constant positive solid red wire). Place the fuse in line of this wire.
Wire Pin 87 (Not 87a if your relay has one) to the positive input wire (red) of the light bar
Wire pin 86 to chassis ground

Ground the light bar negative wire to the top terminal (black wire) of the connector and you should be golden!

Done! The light bar will work with the key on and not overload your accessory circuit. Feel free to pm me if you run into problems. Hopefully this helps a bit...:grin2:
 

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Melanie,
LongSlyde will definitely help you out if you get in a jam. He wired our 17 General with all the goodies when we purchased it. Great guy with lots of knowledge and always willing to help!
He has some You Tube videos on wiring a General too.
 

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Alright guys quick questions.. I think im over thinking all of this but..

So im wanting to wire up 3 light bars two front bars on one switch and one rear bar on another switch.

Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks 6 circuits w/ cover
I can use this as the fuse block? Correct?


The attached picture of the fuse block is below... I can wire it just like the picture but with 2 switches instead of one for my 2 different sources, Correct?

Am I better off getting a bigger fuse block in case I want to add more accessories later?


I plan on using the dash mounted rocker switches as the switch..

What circuit breaker do you guys recommend coming off the battery with?


If I do need a Relay what do you guys recommend?




Also I appreciate the help as I may be completely wrong in my thinking.
 

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