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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to this forum. Just bought a General, took it out for the first time and drove it 10 minutes, temp shot up to 252 and bike shut down. Let it cool and drove it back to camp, temp shot up again and bike shut down. Took it back to the dealer and they got some air bubbles out and said it was fine. Took it back out for a second trip and it did the same thing. Is anyone else having this issue and how did it get fixed????
 

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New to this forum. Just bought a General, took it out for the first time and drove it 10 minutes, temp shot up to 252 and bike shut down. Let it cool and drove it back to camp, temp shot up again and bike shut down. Took it back to the dealer and they got some air bubbles out and said it was fine. Took it back out for a second trip and it did the same thing. Is anyone else having this issue and how did it get fixed????
see my post about over heating issue solved....
New to this forum. Just bought a General, took it out for the first time and drove it 10 minutes, temp shot up to 252 and bike shut down. Let it cool and drove it back to camp, temp shot up again and bike shut down. Took it back to the dealer and they got some air bubbles out and said it was fine. Took it back out for a second trip and it did the same thing. Is anyone else having this issue and how did it get fixed????
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
see my post about over heating issue solved....


Thanks!! I will make sure to mention that when I take the bike in.
 

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I would suspect the heater working just as well. It will take longer to get hot air from the heater but once up to temp you should see no difference in performance.

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I would suspect the heater working just as well. It will take longer to get hot air from the heater but once up to temp you should see no difference in performance.

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
If it gets to temp... basically the second thermostat shuts off flow to the main rad and forces the coolant through the heater core (basically a second rad). Without that 2nd thermostat it'll free flow into the rad and won't be forced through the heater core... which will likely result in less temp/BTU's from the heater....

I noticed that my 22 wouldn't hit temps high enough to open the t stats in below freezing weather which resulted in poor heat... I had to cover the upper portion of the rad with @TaterTots (member here) cover to hit 185*... but that's as high as it'd get ... I got her lower cover to try this coming winter and hopefully I can get 195-200 out of it and get my heat back...

I will note that I have a gilomen tune in my machine too which turns the fan on at 180*...

I think you guys with over heating problems that have the polaris heater really need to dive into that secondary thermostat/housing and figure out why it's not flowing enough to the main rad when open... maybe it's a casting issue and that second thermostat isn't fully opening because there's not enough room inside the housing....

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2022 general xp4 RC ghost white
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If it gets to temp... basically the second thermostat shuts off flow to the main rad and forces the coolant through the heater core (basically a second rad). Without that 2nd thermostat it'll free flow into the rad and won't be forced through the heater core... which will likely result in less temp/BTU's from the heater....

I noticed that my 22 wouldn't hit temps high enough to open the t stats in below freezing weather which resulted in poor heat... I had to cover the upper portion of the rad with @TaterTots (member here) cover to hit 185*... but that's as high as it'd get ... I got her lower cover to try this coming winter and hopefully I can get 195-200 out of it and get my heat back...

I will note that I have a gilomen tune in my machine too which turns the fan on at 180*...

I think you guys with over heating problems that have the polaris heater really need to dive into that secondary thermostat/housing and figure out why it's not flowing enough to the main rad when open... maybe it's a casting issue and that second thermostat isn't fully opening because there's not enough room inside the housing....

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
I was planning on checking out the second thermostat once got it back but dealer wouldnt let me have it had to send it back to polaris since it was a warranty issue
 

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I was planning on checking out the second thermostat once got it back but dealer wouldnt let me have it had to send it back to polaris since it was a warranty issue
I would demand a replacement then... the heater kit comes with it for a reason... it's part of the kit, you bought it. You should have one...

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I would demand a replacement then... the heater kit comes with it for a reason... it's part of the kit, you bought it. You should have one...

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I agree they said if heater doesn't work right without it whatever fix they come up with is under warranty i just left it at that tired of dealing with it, my next move if it doesn't work is a refund on the heater kit and i will put an inferno in it
 

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If it gets to temp... basically the second thermostat shuts off flow to the main rad and forces the coolant through the heater core (basically a second rad). Without that 2nd thermostat it'll free flow into the rad and won't be forced through the heater core... which will likely result in less temp/BTU's from the heater........

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
The second stat shuts off flow to the rad but only until the coolant is up to temp. Right?

After that it is open and coolant is flowing through both; rad and heater core.

So, I would assume that without it coolant would be flowing through both just like when it is open and up to temp. This would cause it to take longer to get to temp but once there it should be operating about the same as it would were the 2nd stat in place.

That's my theory anyways. Of course, even when the stat is functioning properly it also serves as a bit of a restriction which would help increase flow to the core.

One could also limit movement until things get up to temp and keep the heater fan off. This would eliminate or minimize airflow through the cores and allow it to warm up a bit quicker.

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I installed a Polaris heater in my 21 XP4 (this spring). I have never had it get hot to the point it went in limp mode. But it gets hotter than my 16 did. Over 210 (Giloman tune installed).
It's odd It will start getting over 200, If I turn on the heater and turn to warm it drops. I know that's when the coolant flows into the H core. It won't drop the temp with fan running sometimes. It just acts different then the 16 did. The 16 was solid maybe 195 on hot days, working it hard.

I have jacked the frontend up and bleed it a couple times. no luck

Muz
 

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That's my theory anyways. Of course, even when the stat is functioning properly it also serves as a bit of a restriction which would help increase flow to the core.


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I believe you're correct on the flow...

You're comment on the restriction is exactly what I was getting at with my original comment. Obviously the second t stat is a restriction to force more coolant through the heater. If it's enough to cause over heating in summer, I'm going to guess it'll have a major effect on heating ability in winter. Since not as much coolant will be forced through the heater. This will result in more going through the rad and result in more cooling since the rad is more efficient. Its kinda a 2 for 1 (less heat flow and less coolant temp) negative against heat... but it's just a guess... it'll be interesting to see what happens with you guys over winter and how you guys feel the heat works without that second stat. If I were you guys, I'd order a rad cover or be prepared to at least have some rad cover to try. I feel you're definitely gonna need it... I need it with the 2nd stat to get to 185*...

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I installed a Polaris heater in my 21 XP4 (this spring). I have never had it get hot to the point it went in limp mode. But it gets hotter than my 16 did. Over 210 (Giloman tune installed).
It's odd It will start getting over 200, If I turn on the heater and turn to warm it drops. I know that's when the coolant flows into the H core. It won't drop the temp with fan running sometimes. It just acts different then the 16 did. The 16 was solid maybe 195 on hot days, working it hard.

I have jacked the frontend up and bleed it a couple times. no luck

Muz
I beleive there's something with the gilomen tune that makes these run a bit warmer too... I noticed similar results between my 20 deluxe and 22 xp. My 20 deluxe would never get over 205-208 no matter how hard I worked it in any temp (Pol heat/no tune) and I just had my 22 doing the same stuff (pol heat/gilomen tuned) and it was running warm (225-230). Turning the heat fan on definitely helped, but it should. The heater is basically a second rad setup... I was looking at different coolants (engine ice) to try to get more cooling ability out of my stock cooling system, but I'm afraid of how much that'll affect me in the winter and my heating ability...

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 

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2022 general xp4 RC ghost white
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I believe you're correct on the flow...

You're comment on the restriction is exactly what I was getting at with my original comment. Obviously the second t stat is a restriction to force more coolant through the heater. If it's enough to cause over heating in summer, I'm going to guess it'll have a major effect on heating ability in winter. Since not as much coolant will be forced through the heater. This will result in more going through the rad and result in more cooling since the rad is more efficient. Its kinda a 2 for 1 (less heat flow and less coolant temp) negative against heat... but it's just a guess... it'll be interesting to see what happens with you guys over winter and how you guys feel the heat works without that second stat. If I were you guys, I'd order a rad cover or be prepared to at least have some rad cover to try. I feel you're definitely gonna need it... I need it with the 2nd stat to get to 185*...

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
Yes i fully plan on getting a grill cover from the person on here before winter
 

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I beleive there's something with the gilomen tune that makes these run a bit warmer too... I noticed similar results between my 20 deluxe and 22 xp. My 20 deluxe would never get over 205-208 no matter how hard I worked it in any temp (Pol heat/no tune) and I just had my 22 doing the same stuff (pol heat/gilomen tuned) and it was running warm (225-230). Turning the heat fan on definitely helped, but it should. The heater is basically a second rad setup... I was looking at different coolants (engine ice) to try to get more cooling ability out of my stock cooling system, but I'm afraid of how much that'll affect me in the winter and my heating ability...

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
I wondered about that as well with my 2017. Supposedly the Gilomen tune enriches the fuel mixture to help the engine run cooler, and of course it also has the fan come on at around 190 degrees, off at 178 degrees. However, the machine is much more snappy and powerful with the Gilomen tuning, so I have to believe that either the timing is quite different from the factory, or the engine is generating more hp. More hp = more heat. Perhaps it is too much hp for the cooling system design?

Pirate and I rode in Wallace, ID last year. He has a larger radiator and Engine Ice coolant in his 2016 two seater, and the Gilomen tune. When we got to the top of a couple big climbs, his water temperature was the same as mine (in my 2017 G4 with Gilomen tune). So, it seems to me that his larger radiator and Engine Ice didn't do much for him, and his two seater is lighter than my four seater. However, back to lueck89's post on the secondary thermostat: Pirate and I both had the Polaris heater kits installed, and I do not believe that either of us ever thought of the secondary thermostat as the cause of our heating issues.
 

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I wondered about that as well with my 2017. Supposedly the Gilomen tune enriches the fuel mixture to help the engine run cooler, and of course it also has the fan come on at around 190 degrees, off at 178 degrees. However, the machine is much more snappy and powerful with the Gilomen tuning, so I have to believe that either the timing is quite different from the factory, or the engine is generating more hp. More hp = more heat. Perhaps it is too much hp for the cooling system design?

Pirate and I rode in Wallace, ID last year. He has a larger radiator and Engine Ice coolant in his 2016 two seater, and the Gilomen tune. When we got to the top of a couple big climbs, his water temperature was the same as mine (in my 2017 G4 with Gilomen tune). So, it seems to me that his larger radiator and Engine Ice didn't do much for him, and his two seater is lighter than my four seater. However, back to lueck89's post on the secondary thermostat: Pirate and I both had the Polaris heater kits installed, and I do not believe that either of us ever thought of the secondary thermostat as the cause of our heating issues.
I no longer think the tune is adding significant heat. I believe polaris changed something on the 21+ model years. Wether that's how fast the water pump turns, water pump impeller, something with the second t stat or ??? But running my 22 with my 2nd t-stat replacement I run 180-190 with normal trail/road riding (i am gilomen tuned)... which is just as cool or cooler than my 20 deluxe I had (no tune)...

I was also second guessing all the stuff pirate has done with his cooling system. Seems from my experience he really hasn't gained a thing from the SATV larger rad/utv Inc override switch and engine ice. I run as coolant he says he does with my $75 valve/barb setup...

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