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I agree with Pirate on all of this. I haven't bled the system yet to see if that corrects my slight overheating issue. However, cleaning the radiator fixed my main issue of the machine going into limp mode from overheating. Riding in Arizona I had to watch my RPMs and how hard I was pushing my machine in order to manage the temps. Again, I didn't let it get over 200. When you're on a 800+ mile trip in four days it becomes a marathon. I just wanted to get to the finish line so no need to push the machine hard in the hot desert air. Gilomen Tune will do wonders for performance. I can't speak for Assasin's or others as I have no experience with them. Everything I have read on here appear to be positive so I would definitely say a tune is in order and leave it to personal preference on which one you go with. As for performance, I cleaned my spark arrestor out it seems to allow the engine to breathe better. This may or may not assist in controlling the temps on these Gs.
 

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2022 general XP on the way
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940 Posts
Priates way of bleeding the system is 100% wrong. The system needs to be hot to bleed it out properly... without heat there is very little pressure and flow. You need BOTH of these items to "push" the air out of the bleeder when you crack it open. Otherwise you let in just as much as you let out. I'll recommend to use gloves or an extension/swivel when cracking that bleeder open to purge the air out...

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When I did my heater and bled the system I did it with the system warm but not hot. Hot is a great way to burn yourself since Polaris saw it necessary to place the screw right next to the exhaust.

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When I did my heater and bled the system I did it with the system warm but not hot. Hot is a great way to burn yourself since Polaris saw it necessary to place the screw right next to the exhaust.

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Hence the gloves and or extension/swivel... hopefully it was warm enough to have the thermostats open and coolant flowing through the entire system. If it wasn't air could still be trapped in yhe system if everything wasn't flowing... I beleive the thermostats open 180*-190*...

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2019 rc
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271 Posts
According to Polaris service manual it states,
1-fill reservoir to max level.
2-remove radiator cap and add coolant if needed.
3- open bleed screw until steady stream of coolant is visible, close bleed screw and replace radiator cap.
4- start engine and allow it to idle until cooling fan cycles 2 times.
5-allow engine and cooling system to completely cool down.
6. Remove radiator cap and add necessary coolant.
7. Open bleed screw and allow any air to escape, close bleed screw once a steady stream of coolant begins to drain out.
8-tighten bleed screw, top off coolant to max line in reservoir and add to radiator as needed and replace radiator cap.
( Coolant bleed screw 89in-lb)
 

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That being said, With all the cooling problems occurring maybe Polaris either needs to revise the service manual or the mechanics are not following directions. Personally I haven't had any real cooling issues and have OEM heater. Guess I'm just lucky.
 

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21 general xp 1000 RC
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102 Posts
Hi, My fellow miscreants,
my 21 general, with a Gillomen tune and clutch, ran cool as a cucumber with no worries last weekend while riding here in the Black Hills with temperatures hitting 101,
the fan kicks on, and I never even bother looking at the gauges and we rode all day
on some pretty slow, technical trails, it ran great, I would definitely agree with pirate, and get the gillomen tune
cheers,
lucky
 
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Just double checked my machine. Ran it for 5 miles down the road, engine temp between 180-200. Fan running, engine running.... good thing I've got these fancy tools to do it correctly...

Was it warm in there, YES. Was there a chance of burning myself, YES. But you need to have flow/pressure to push out the air... theres zero chance any human has the reaction time to close that screw when the coolant stops coming out. Guess what happens when the coolant stops coming out? You guessed it, air goes back on and creates another air bubble. Then you've effectively created another air bubble and locked it in when you close the bleeder screw. This is the common practice for all cars/trucks with a bleeder screw... bleed it at operating temp with the motor running...

I'll add this though, you do NOT need to remove that screw, just simply crack it open and let the coolant/air out until you get a steady stream of just coolant. The retighten the screw and done...


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Bled mine a few days ago, and now it smells like burning coolant all the time 🤦🏻‍♂️ No leaks, just coming off the exhaust I guess.
 

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Bled mine a few days ago, and now it smells like burning coolant all the time No leaks, just coming off the exhaust I guess.
Maybe take a garden hose in there and try to rinse it off. I bet there's coolant on "cooler" surfaces that hasn't burnt off yet. That's what you're smelling...

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