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How do you guys fix negative camber issues? My tires are all wearing on the inside. I bought my tusk terrabites about 5 months ago and I'm noticing significant wear. My machine is street legal so It is on pavement frequently. I use turf mode most of the time on the road.
 

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I've been reading and thinking about this ever since I put my 30" terrabites on. My 1st thought was to adjust the preload down on the springs until I measured and found that the dealer must have already set them to the max recommended preload setting. This tells me Polaris gave us under designed springs from the factory having negative camber and no room to adjust. My 2nd thought was to get some tender springs which I feel would help the camber issue but not totally help the overall suspension package. My third thought is to go with a Shock Therapy set up which I think will be the route I end up going here. I know their RIS set up would be a ton better but I think I will end up getting their DRS spring kit to keep the cost down from their RIS package and go with it. You can check if you have any room to add preload on your springs 1st. Then after that your cheapest route will be tender springs and it goes up from there. I'm sure if I'm missing anything someone will chime in.
 
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My RZR that I had before the General had terrible negative amber, and no matter how high I jacked it, it still had negative camber. It didn't wear the tires crooked. Having come from the wheel alignment business for 45 years, we learned that 99% of irregular tire wear (in cars) is caused by excessive toe-in or toe-out. Caster has no affect on tire wear. It affects steering and stbility. Camber looks like it should wear one side of the tread, but it takes lots of thousands of miles to make any noticable wear. As steering/suspension parts wear, it causes toe-out on tires that are not drive tires, and it causes toe-in on tires that are powered. The more worn the parts are, the more toe in/out is induced into the system. Not to pretend to be an expert on Generals, but one would think that the same would apply. I would suspect a toe condition, but I would also strive for zero camber because it looks better. You might put a jack under your rear end, jack it up 3 inches and see if the camber is of your liking.
 

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You would think by looking at it excessive negative camber would wear the inside of the tires alot more. I do belive I'm gonna go with the 45 years experience though and thanks Turbo Ted for the post. I would be curious to hear how far off your toe setting is. I checked mine as soon as I noticed my camber issue and it was set dead at zero and have just been driving it. I still think I'm gonna go with the dual rate springs though because it should improve the ride and the squating in the front just looks stupid.
 

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You couldn't adjust the camber in the General's stock form.
All you could adjust is the Toe in / Toe out.
 

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I really should have droned on a little longer with my exceptional knowledge. Ha! It DOES seem that one side of the tread would wear because of camber. But it seems that with our modern radial tires, the tread still stays flat on the road surface, and all that happens (to a great extent) is that one sidewall of the tire flexes a little more than the other sidewall. This is one reason why radial tires, of the same tread pattern, have much more traction than bias ply tires. Also, by the way, as you air down radial tires, the footprint gets longer, like a Cat tractor track, giving better flotation and traction. The sidewall bulges out at the bottom, but the tread footprint does not get appreciatively wider, as does a bias ply tire.
 

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Keep in mind that negative camber has some significant benefits, such as improved traction and stability during cornering. My guess is that the negative camber was designed by Polaris to be there for a reason.
 

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Negative camber can be not helpful when traveling slow on an sideways angle and tipping/rolling sideways becomes a greater possibility due to the negative camber. I have a 2021 xp2 that I wish I could push the toe out slightly. Concerned if I add a 2" lift kit it will get worse.
 

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Very easy to adjust your toe in / toe out.
 

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Negative camber can be not helpful when traveling slow on an sideways angle and tipping/rolling sideways becomes a greater possibility due to the negative camber. I have a 2021 xp2 that I wish I could push the toe out slightly. Concerned if I add a 2" lift kit it will get worse.
Do you mean "positive camber"?
 
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And these days you can purchase SuperATV A-arms for the front and Control Arms for the rear that are adjustable for camber.

I bought my adjustable A-arms before I got the 2016 General. I installed them. Then had wife, er BOSS drive the General following me in the truck on a straight section of good asphalt county
road (right next to our property) she drove a straight line. Thus I could see the camber.
Up to the Toybarn we went. Front tires came off, A-arm adjusters were turned the correct direction (see the SuperATV directions).
Then another trip up the county road.
Took three trips to get to the camber to 0 degrees...tires running straight up.

Check them periodically just account for wear in the front end components.

Broke down and bought a set of 2018 Orange control arms for the color to match the rest of the Orange 2016 Deluxe. THEN SuperATV comes out with Orange adjustable Control Arms.
And their Control Arms move the wheel back 1.5" for more fender clearance. I don't want that. But this is a way to deal with the camber on the rear tires.

Makes adjusting the camber to get tires running straight up and down easy. Mine take a 31mm end wrench. Installed a set for a friend. His take a 29mm end wrench. So measure before you
buy a wrench. Home Depot carries the big metric end wrenches.

Pirate
 
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