Loud clunk/cracking sound xp4 1000 when hitting holes on passenger side front
41 - 60 of 74 Posts
Will do Tallen and thank you.
For heaven's sake Mountain Man, before you start being a "parts changer", take some time and make sure everything is tight, all the fasteners are in place.
Do some troubleshooting.
The Service Manual is a good place to look at where components bolt together. Parts fiche pages like those found on polarisparts123 is also a good place to see how things go together.
Get the front of the machine off the floor, on jack stands for safety please. Take the front wheels off and check each and every fastener, with a torque wrench, specs in the Service Manual.
Find anything? Either way, take it for a short ride and see if the problem is still present. If you found a loose fastener and issue is gone...Good!!
If the issue is still present...troubleshooting, one step at a time.
Check all the fluid levels. All just at the Fill/Inspection plug? The normal Fill level is just where fluid starts to fill the threads at the bottom of the port.
Check the bolts that connect the front diff to the chassis. Torqued to spec?
Disconnect the front Sway Bar from the A-arms and tie it up out of the way. Take it for a short ride. Problem solved? Most of us take the front Sway Bar off shortly after getting the machine home.
Swap the two front Shocks. Did the issue move from the Passenger side to the Driver side? If yes, go see the dealer.
With the front wheels on, get the tires a couple inches off the floor. Grasp the tire at 12 O'clock and 6 O'clock and rock it back and forth top to bottom. They all move a little. But do you get a lot more
movement on the Passenger side than the Driver side? Yes? Ball joint issue, go see the dealer.
There is a "roll pin" that goes passes through the forward driveshaft yoke and through the differential pinion shaft. Is it there? A lot of use use a brass drift to drive the roll pin out and replace it
with at 5/16" x 2" grade 8 bolt and Nylok nut.
With the front wheels off the ground front on jack stands, remove the front tires, remove the nut on the bottom of the upper ball joint. Pull the ball joint up out of the bearing carrier. Now try to move the side-to-side. This is a test for the A-arm bushings. Put the top ball joint through the A-arm and torque the fastener. Repeat for the Lower A-arm. Find much movement? If Yes, do the Driver side
and see if there is the same movement Upper and Lower. If Yes, take it to the dealer.
In each case, if you find something...get someone to take a video to show what's happening. Then you have something to show the dealer.
I'm sorry, to expect about any UTV to have the quality that a new pickup has these days...it ain't gonna happen. Polaris, or any other UTV manufacturer simply cannot afford the size Engineering departments like Chevy, Ford or Ram. Throw in the Pandemic effect on assembly lines. Yes, things get missed.
To me and a lot of other owners. Buy a new RZR or General is just like the days I bought a new Harley. What you get it just a place to start.
Give my suggestions a try and let us know if you find anything. Sharing what we learn is a big part of the success of this forum!! Pics are always important!
Pirate
Do some troubleshooting.
The Service Manual is a good place to look at where components bolt together. Parts fiche pages like those found on polarisparts123 is also a good place to see how things go together.
Get the front of the machine off the floor, on jack stands for safety please. Take the front wheels off and check each and every fastener, with a torque wrench, specs in the Service Manual.
Find anything? Either way, take it for a short ride and see if the problem is still present. If you found a loose fastener and issue is gone...Good!!
If the issue is still present...troubleshooting, one step at a time.
Check all the fluid levels. All just at the Fill/Inspection plug? The normal Fill level is just where fluid starts to fill the threads at the bottom of the port.
Check the bolts that connect the front diff to the chassis. Torqued to spec?
Disconnect the front Sway Bar from the A-arms and tie it up out of the way. Take it for a short ride. Problem solved? Most of us take the front Sway Bar off shortly after getting the machine home.
Swap the two front Shocks. Did the issue move from the Passenger side to the Driver side? If yes, go see the dealer.
With the front wheels on, get the tires a couple inches off the floor. Grasp the tire at 12 O'clock and 6 O'clock and rock it back and forth top to bottom. They all move a little. But do you get a lot more
movement on the Passenger side than the Driver side? Yes? Ball joint issue, go see the dealer.
There is a "roll pin" that goes passes through the forward driveshaft yoke and through the differential pinion shaft. Is it there? A lot of use use a brass drift to drive the roll pin out and replace it
with at 5/16" x 2" grade 8 bolt and Nylok nut.
With the front wheels off the ground front on jack stands, remove the front tires, remove the nut on the bottom of the upper ball joint. Pull the ball joint up out of the bearing carrier. Now try to move the side-to-side. This is a test for the A-arm bushings. Put the top ball joint through the A-arm and torque the fastener. Repeat for the Lower A-arm. Find much movement? If Yes, do the Driver side
and see if there is the same movement Upper and Lower. If Yes, take it to the dealer.
In each case, if you find something...get someone to take a video to show what's happening. Then you have something to show the dealer.
I'm sorry, to expect about any UTV to have the quality that a new pickup has these days...it ain't gonna happen. Polaris, or any other UTV manufacturer simply cannot afford the size Engineering departments like Chevy, Ford or Ram. Throw in the Pandemic effect on assembly lines. Yes, things get missed.
To me and a lot of other owners. Buy a new RZR or General is just like the days I bought a new Harley. What you get it just a place to start.
Give my suggestions a try and let us know if you find anything. Sharing what we learn is a big part of the success of this forum!! Pics are always important!
Pirate
You certainly cant compare these to automobile fit and finish........he's comparing UTV brands, and I agree Polaris is only ahead of Arctic Cat, but you can find issues with them all....thats what forums do
Duraclutch isnt the answer, and Polaris doesnt have a bad clutch design(although the square pucks suck)......they have very poor calibration. There seems to be plenty of people that just "run" them as well. The things you list are big dollar items that dont have to be done, but they do improve them, thats what the aftermarket does. People do the same thing with autos...wheels/tires/tunes/all the goodies, by choice.....not because they have to. Sorry youre unhappy with the G...its a good machine, that yes can be made better.
General XP 4 1000 Factory Edition, Shock Therapy, Rugged Radio, Factory UTV Skid, Hunterworks
Joined
·
507 Posts
Give that Man a cigar!
Thanks but I don’t smoke😂😂🤣🤣
Joined
·
2,294 Posts
OH ****!!!!!😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
Do you have a arm guards on the front of your machine? I noticed when I removed my front sway bar that it was hitting my a arm guard pretty hard and harder on one side than the other. Dont remember which one right now. My old trusty rusty rzr 800 made a lot of noise in the front and never found a reason for it. My General now has much less noise from the front now that I have removed my sway bar and installed SuperATV shock limit straps. The bushings on the sway are junk also.
Curious also if Mountain Man found the problem. Was just thinking, a rock on top of the skid bouncing around against the frame makes a **** of a racket also.
-EH
-EH
Joined
·
200 Posts
I know where one source of a lot of excess noise is…. 😂
Joined
·
399 Posts
Ever find the source of the noise?
I noticed that my dealership had 4 Generals sitting out front today. 2 G2 and 2 G4. I couldn't help but stop and give the front suspension components a shake.
None of the CV axles on those machines move as much or as loudly as mine do. Mine clank around in the diff like they're a size too small.
I'd check this on your machine as well. Could be your problem.
Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
I noticed that my dealership had 4 Generals sitting out front today. 2 G2 and 2 G4. I couldn't help but stop and give the front suspension components a shake.
None of the CV axles on those machines move as much or as loudly as mine do. Mine clank around in the diff like they're a size too small.
I'd check this on your machine as well. Could be your problem.
Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
Joined
·
399 Posts
Here's a short video I took tonight while driving around the block. Noise wasn't too bad tonight. You can hear it now and then in the videos though.
Also noticed the sway link rubs on the a arm guards. More on the driver than the passenger side. It's rubbing a shallow groove in the UHMW.
Getting closer to wanting to remove the front sway bar. Noise has existed since new, before the guards were bought.
Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
Also noticed the sway link rubs on the a arm guards. More on the driver than the passenger side. It's rubbing a shallow groove in the UHMW.
Getting closer to wanting to remove the front sway bar. Noise has existed since new, before the guards were bought.
Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
KK, It appears to me that your preload is really low(soft) by the length of the shock shaft, I'd add preload and see if it quiets down. I dont believe its your axles....
Joined
·
399 Posts
I actually had that same thought. I noticed that I'm already losing powder coat on the tender springs where the coils collapse on each other.
Wondered if it might be the sound of those springs clicking as they collapse adding to the noises.
I also have the compression setting set fairly soft. I like a softer ride on the rocky trails around here.
Is there a baseline meaurement that the preload is supposed to be set to? Like inches down from the top of the threads, etc.?
Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
![]()
Wondered if it might be the sound of those springs clicking as they collapse adding to the noises.
I also have the compression setting set fairly soft. I like a softer ride on the rocky trails around here.
Is there a baseline meaurement that the preload is supposed to be set to? Like inches down from the top of the threads, etc.?
Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
Use it to set ground clearance….I’m guessing your pretty low. I’m at 2” on preload to get my ride height. Polaris claims 12” ground clearance, I’m a little over that. If it’s too firm, lower your tire pressure some
41 - 60 of 74 Posts
Join the discussion
