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running wiring and installing a GPS in the center dash cutout. I managed to remove the drivers side panel without damage but haven't firgured out how to take the insert out of the upper dash where my GPS will go. Am I missing a clip or a trick? any help appreciated. I hate breaking stuff!!
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Or pull down on top edge of the big cubby and it comes out. No need to pull the switch panel off


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I tried both ways. It s far easier to pop the switch panel out - IMHO. Just pry out the tabs at the top of the switch panel, and it practically falls out, the cubby too. Ride safe, ride insured,


Roy
 

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Hmmmm....

When I mounted a steel plate and wired my Garmin GPS at the center cubby...I didn't remove anything. Just drilled a 5/16" hole at the lower right corner to get the wires in, and attached my mounting plate to the edges of the cubby...

Here's my mount plate. I used an adhesive to stick it to the surface edges of the cubby, then wound up putting in four screws that go through the plate and into the cubby edges:



Here's my Garmin Zumo 660 mounted and ready to ride.



Pirate
 

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Hmmmm....

When I mounted a steel plate and wired my Garmin GPS at the center cubby...I didn't remove anything. Just drilled a 5/16" hole at the lower right corner to get the wires in, and attached my mounting plate to the edges of the cubby...

Here's my mount plate. I used an adhesive to stick it to the surface edges of the cubby, then wound up putting in four screws that go through the plate and into the cubby edges:



Here's my Garmin Zumo 660 mounted and ready to ride.



Pirate
That looks like a great idea. I bet you could use a smooth plate that a suction cup would stick to as well, or even just Velcro a tablet to it. I love fresh ideas. I am curious about the screws though. Did they penetrate the cubby edges and the edges of the hole the cubby fits into? I just hate to drill in a dash. Two sided tape might hold the plate well enough I think. Great thinking Pirate. Ride safe, ride insured,


Roy
 

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I took a little bit of a different tack after all. I will mimic another poster's solution, and I ordered a new cubby - only $15. So I will have a replacement if I want to restore to original - or if my mod fails. I decided to double stack support pieces front and back of the cubby back wall and bolt through the back (and support pieces) of the cubby. I have a RAM mount that will work perfectly. Pictures to follow. A note on software. I use a mapping chip from onXmaps in my Garmin Rhinos that shows game management unit boundaries and property ownership, not to mention almost every trail out there. The chip will work with in a PC with Basecamp, but not with Android tablets, since Basecamp isn't available for Android. onX makes a version of their program for android, and it works OK. But, when you download maps off-line, you can only download one zoom level at a time. You have to decide what zoom level you want or spend all day downloading maps. Plus I don't think that property ownership is available either. GMU boundaries are provided I think. So I use a tablet and BCN, and suction cup the Garmin to the windshield or carry it in my pocket, for the other info I need. You just can't beat a tablet for high definition terrain maps, and showing trails that go near a down animal. One caveat, I think my compass is damaged in the tablet. The direction arrow spins erratically when moving. I have the map in a fixed position so it doesn't spin too. "Happy trails to you" as my boyhood hero would say, and ride safe, ride insured as I say, Pictures to follow later today.


Roy
 

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So I got it made. Not reinventing the wheel here, but copying someone else's method. I had some thin aluminum plate, so I cut two pieces 4/5 X 5" and filed off the corners a little. I placed one on the inside of the cubby and one on the back, then drilled and bolted the sandwich together. I then drilled and bolted the RAM mount to the inside of the cubby. My mount has a small amount of clearance to get a ratcheting end wrench on the tightener for the RAM mount, so I positioned it where I wanted it and tightened it up. There was a wing nut to tighten with, but I replaced it with a 1/4-20 hex nut. I placed the tablet in the mount and routed the power cable to the 12 acc outlet with a USB adaptor in it. Sturdy as a rock.
 

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Indeed I found that the top cubby came out by just pulling down the top lip a bit and then popping it out. Once the cubby is out you can pop the two clips that hold the switch plate (not sure what to call it) out.

I am in the process of making up an AutoCadd drawing of the switch plate face. I was not happy with the switches in the plastic so I am going to laser cut a piece of stainless steell to drop on top with cutouts for the 6 switches I am using. I was just wondering if anyone else has taken the time to accurately measure and draw up that face plate. otherwise it is just a case of trying and adjusting.
 

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That looks like a great idea. I bet you could use a smooth plate that a suction cup would stick to as well, or even just Velcro a tablet to it. I love fresh ideas. I am curious about the screws though. Did they penetrate the cubby edges and the edges of the hole the cubby fits into? I just hate to drill in a dash. Two sided tape might hold the plate well enough I think. Great thinking Pirate. Ride safe, ride insured,


Roy
Whew...long time passing. But yes, on my Tablet mount the four screws go through the plate and into the dash pieces that holds the cubby in place.
Here's a pic that I believe will answer your question.
66538


Two years now and not a bit of trouble.

Pirate
 

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Quantum, depending on whether you already drew this up, I might be able to save you a bunch of time. I was in the same boat as you and am kinda anal about matching switches with good vertical alignment.

I bought a six gang rocker switch that was pre-wired and already came with a black plated aluminum mounting plate. I really like the “snick” of this style rocker switch, plus the always on lower blue bar and the illuminated blue light when activated. Came with stickers for labels (my only complaint is they don’t have all labels I would like). I bought a matching dual momentary switch to swap out the stock winch rocker so now they all match.

The panel took just a little modification to fit (was close to the plastic clips). I love the look and function now and am quite happy with it. The rocker switch I bought on eBay, but I’m pretty sure it’s this one on Amazon. You should double check the plate width before ordering to see if it fits inside the General rocker panel area. Cheers!

 

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