I've been stalking this forum for about 4 years, since I bought my 17 G2 so I figured it was time to make an account.
I installed the inferno in my G2 yesterday. I did not purchase the extender kit for extra hoses. I figure I'll see how it does and it's easy enough to add in the future since it looks like I'll be able to do it all through the accessories cubby where the RC is on newer models.
Tools that made this job much easier are some push pin pliers and hose squeeze clamps. Both available at Napa or online.
The whole thing took me about 6 hours but while I was into it I also replaced switches in my dash, cleaned up the previous owners wiring and installed BFabs mirror/light bracket with some pods. I just swapped my old seismic mirrors over from the old ones.
Also slapped on BFabs clutch Intake guard but that only took a minute.
Here's some tips:
-Take out more push pins in the dash than you think you need. It's a bit of a tight fit anyways so the extra room really helps. I also left my Ryfab windshield on throughout the whole install and managed to do it. Hindsight is 20/20 because I pulled it anyway for the ditch light brackets.
![Material property Auto part Font Metal Automotive wheel system]()
-if you do have a windshield to remove or brackets to install that require removing those 2 cage bolts per side - shove a shop rag against the nuts between the cage and the dash. I spent far too long chasing nuts I dropped into the machine.
- when Installing the heater core itself. Bring it up though the passenger footwell.
I don't thing you would need to remove its mounting bracket this way and save yourself some time. I dropped it down though the dash and it was a tight fit puzzle but I did it. Then I looked over and kicked myself for not going through the footwell.
- don't install the dash louvers right after you get them cut like the instructions say. Sure, test fit and make sure they will fit nicely but don't click it all the way down.
A razor blade is all you need. Drilling holes in the corners helps but isn't necessary. I also tried heating up the blade with a heat gun but the difference minimal and the trim of the vent itself will cover any blemishes. Same goes for the switch install on the dash.
![Grey Automotive exterior Gas Motor vehicle Vehicle door]()
-After reinstalling the dash, but before snapping it back in place, I pulled the ducting through the vent holes you cut. Makes it much easier to connect to the vent and zip tie it.
-the hose squeeze clamps worked wonderfully to prevent air in the system and reduce cleanup. I lost maybe a cup of coolant and didn't HAVE to bleed anything but I did a few cycles and bleeds to be sure because I'm anal retentive.
You will still need to add a quart or so to fill the new hoses and heater core.
-after your full install when you are testing the heat output don't forget to check the oil cooler valves orientation. If you don't get any heat but the machine is up to temp just flip that valve. I spent too long working through problems in my head before I had that AHA! moment. After turning the valve I immediately felt a difference. Very easy to tell by reaching under the dash or through a wheel well to feel the hoses you just added.
![Automotive tire Gas Rim Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system]()
-ill attach photos of how I plumbed everything. The instructions are great but I ended up rewatching videos of other installs for clarification.
On the front "Y", the angled bit needs to face towards the front of the machine for best flow. That way it's not battling the existing flow of return from the radiator.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Vehicle brake Rim]()
I couldn't find a great way someone else had ran their return line so I made a heavy sweep over the shock.
![Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Gas Coil spring Motor vehicle]()
Just wanted to say thanks to this forum by adding my own contribution.
I've spend many hours reading threads of people's experiences that steered me in the right direction.
I installed the inferno in my G2 yesterday. I did not purchase the extender kit for extra hoses. I figure I'll see how it does and it's easy enough to add in the future since it looks like I'll be able to do it all through the accessories cubby where the RC is on newer models.
Tools that made this job much easier are some push pin pliers and hose squeeze clamps. Both available at Napa or online.
The whole thing took me about 6 hours but while I was into it I also replaced switches in my dash, cleaned up the previous owners wiring and installed BFabs mirror/light bracket with some pods. I just swapped my old seismic mirrors over from the old ones.
Also slapped on BFabs clutch Intake guard but that only took a minute.
Here's some tips:
-Take out more push pins in the dash than you think you need. It's a bit of a tight fit anyways so the extra room really helps. I also left my Ryfab windshield on throughout the whole install and managed to do it. Hindsight is 20/20 because I pulled it anyway for the ditch light brackets.
-if you do have a windshield to remove or brackets to install that require removing those 2 cage bolts per side - shove a shop rag against the nuts between the cage and the dash. I spent far too long chasing nuts I dropped into the machine.
- when Installing the heater core itself. Bring it up though the passenger footwell.
I don't thing you would need to remove its mounting bracket this way and save yourself some time. I dropped it down though the dash and it was a tight fit puzzle but I did it. Then I looked over and kicked myself for not going through the footwell.
- don't install the dash louvers right after you get them cut like the instructions say. Sure, test fit and make sure they will fit nicely but don't click it all the way down.
A razor blade is all you need. Drilling holes in the corners helps but isn't necessary. I also tried heating up the blade with a heat gun but the difference minimal and the trim of the vent itself will cover any blemishes. Same goes for the switch install on the dash.
-After reinstalling the dash, but before snapping it back in place, I pulled the ducting through the vent holes you cut. Makes it much easier to connect to the vent and zip tie it.
-the hose squeeze clamps worked wonderfully to prevent air in the system and reduce cleanup. I lost maybe a cup of coolant and didn't HAVE to bleed anything but I did a few cycles and bleeds to be sure because I'm anal retentive.
You will still need to add a quart or so to fill the new hoses and heater core.
-after your full install when you are testing the heat output don't forget to check the oil cooler valves orientation. If you don't get any heat but the machine is up to temp just flip that valve. I spent too long working through problems in my head before I had that AHA! moment. After turning the valve I immediately felt a difference. Very easy to tell by reaching under the dash or through a wheel well to feel the hoses you just added.
-ill attach photos of how I plumbed everything. The instructions are great but I ended up rewatching videos of other installs for clarification.
On the front "Y", the angled bit needs to face towards the front of the machine for best flow. That way it's not battling the existing flow of return from the radiator.
I couldn't find a great way someone else had ran their return line so I made a heavy sweep over the shock.
Just wanted to say thanks to this forum by adding my own contribution.
I've spend many hours reading threads of people's experiences that steered me in the right direction.
