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Front Diff Fill Plug Stripped, Any Advice?

21K views 47 replies 12 participants last post by  Pirate 
#1 ·
Just wondering if any of you have experienced this. Stripped it out when using a small dewalt hammer drill. [emoji15][emoji2959]

Any advice before I dig in?


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#2 ·
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#3 ·
I did that same thing on my 800 sportsman. I used a snap on easy out, let me find a picture
 
#4 ·
This is a Irwin set very similar to the snap on
 

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#36 ·
Corbo, thanks for the advice on this set. Got it removed today without having to weld on it, thanks to a snap-on set just like this. I ordered this exact one this weekend. Seems liek a pretty good set to have in the arsenal.

Thanks again to everyone for their advice. You too Pirate! 😉 That's why I love this forum. Seems like no matter what has happened on my machine, someone on here has had the same thing happen with advice on how to correct.
 
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#5 ·
You're going to need to drill the hole out, not all the way thru but get clean metal for the extractor to bit into. The extractor will have a specific size hole for each size of extractor. Also you'll want to tap on the plug with a hammer and punch to help loosen it up. Good luck with it
 
#6 ·
Thanks Corbo. I appreciate it.

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#7 ·
I haven't taken any out of Generals, but i have removed several on Rangers that fill and drain plugs for transmission, differential and engine that been over tightened eventually stripped out. I have used with much success a rather unorthodox removing procedure using a blunt chisel and carefully rapping the plug edge with a hammer. Some times if they aren't fully stripped out I use a brass drift and hammer rap the end of the plug and they usually loosen up. If you can drill and use a easy out that should work well. When i work my own or others i use a inch lb. dial indicator torque wrench to no more than 12-14 inch pounds. I always use anti-seize grease on threads before putting a steel plug in a aluminium housing.
 
#8 ·
First, go to the Sandcraft website and order yourself a set of their drain plugs:
66321

They are $99.99 for a full set for a General, I think the RZR set is the same. Notice the 10mm hex head? You won't tear it off. The magnets are stronger to collect "stuff"
and if you drop one...it'll be stuck to the first piece of metal it goes past!

So now for the stripped drain plug. Get a wide blade flat screwdriver with a square stock between blade and handle.

It needs to have a blade that is a bit wider than the stripped out hole.

Remove the left front wheel, take a hammer and drive the screwdriver into the hole until it has made a groove that holds the plug. Now take a correct size end wrench that fits the screwdriver shank and turn it out.

NOW...remember that all but the engine oil drain use an O-ring to seal them. If you look at the book...10 or 12 ft-lbs is all it takes to seal. So put a 10mm socket on the end of a 6", 1/4" drive extension. Turn the drain plug in finger tight...fingers turning the new drain plug. When finger tight, put a ratchet on the extension and drain plug and turn it on ratchet click on a 1/4" drive ratchet. Or turn the ratchet about 10 degrees, not much at all...and the plug is torqued in..DONE! Do not use anything but a 1/4" drive ratchet and then your fingers to turn the drain plug in and out.

Pirate
 
#11 ·
First, go to the Sandcraft website and order yourself a set of their drain plugs:
View attachment 66321
They are $99.99 for a full set for a General, I think the RZR set is the same. Notice the 10mm hex head? You won't tear it off. The magnets are stronger to collect "stuff"
and if you drop one...it'll be stuck to the first piece of metal it goes past!

So now for the stripped drain plug. Get a wide blade flat screwdriver with a square stock between blade and handle.

It needs to have a blade that is a bit wider than the stripped out hole.

Remove the left front wheel, take a hammer and drive the screwdriver into the hole until it has made a groove that holds the plug. Now take a correct size end wrench that fits the screwdriver shank and turn it out.

NOW...remember that all but the engine oil drain use an O-ring to seal them. If you look at the book...10 or 12 ft-lbs is all it takes to seal. So put a 10mm socket on the end of a 6", 1/4" drive extension. Turn the drain plug in finger tight...fingers turning the new drain plug. When finger tight, put a ratchet on the extension and drain plug and turn it on ratchet click on a 1/4" drive ratchet. Or turn the ratchet about 10 degrees, not much at all...and the plug is torqued in..DONE! Do not use anything but a 1/4" drive ratchet and then your fingers to turn the drain plug in and out.

Pirate
Good advice Pirate! I replaced mine with the same plugs. 10 mm socket is all you need for all the plugs on the General.
 
#9 ·
As always, thanks Pirate.

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#13 ·
Yup, bought a Mac Tools 1/4" drive torque wrench...whew a long time ago. It's in in-lbs. Easy to do a little math and convert ft-lbs to in-lbs.

The biggest thing...don't get carried away tightening drain plugs!!

The Sandcraft set should be a huge seller...I hope!!

Pirate
 
#14 ·
I bought the Sandcraft set. Meanwhile, screwdriver trick didnt work and broke off the screw extractor, so, I've put a call in to a buddy that is an auto body guy for help.

A pipe nipple extractor might be able to get it out.

FYi, this is the first time I've drained this, so, over torquing from a previous oil change was not the cause.

Of course, I already drained the oil, so I cant even ride. [emoji849]


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#24 ·
I bought the Sandcraft set. Meanwhile, screwdriver trick didnt work and broke off the screw extractor, so, I've put a call in to a buddy that is an auto body guy for help.

A pipe nipple extractor might be able to get it out.

FYi, this is the first time I've drained this, so, over torquing from a previous oil change was not the cause.

Of course, I already drained the oil, so I cant even ride. [emoji849]


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Have you removed the broken easyout tip yet?
 
#15 ·
I feel for you, good luck with this pita
 
#16 ·
You guys see an issue welding a nut onto the plug face?

Tight place to weld.

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#17 ·
Take a bolt with the threaded end that will fit in the stripped out drain plug. Have someone weld the bolt to the drain plug. Let it cool, and voila it will come out. The heat of the weld won't hurt anything other than the o-ring on the drain plug, which you will be replacing anyway. I've used this trick on Meritor gear drive hubs on military trucks. They seem to get way over torqued and strip out. Welding a bolt to it is way easier than drilling it out and using an easy out. I've tried both ways.
 
#18 ·
Thanks. Yeah, trying to weld a nut on tomorrow. Hopefully I can get the mig tip in there without having to remove too many parts. [emoji1696]

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#20 ·
I tried that already.

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#21 ·
If you can find a left hand drill bit (Yes they do exist) a little bigger than the plug hole and run it into the stripped hole it should grab it and turn it out, I would be very careful about welding on the bolt if you don’t get it just right you could melt through the differential then you will have a even bigger problem....Good luck...
 
#22 ·
So...Drsmitty...how did this plug get stripped? You drained the lube, and now trying to get the fill/level plug out? MmmmHmmm...so the factory or the dealer over tightened the plug??? I think I've read that in a couple of places on the forum...didn't believe any of them.

Back to the issue at hand.
Remove the drain plug. Use a long, small diameter screwdriver to push a clean 12" square terry towel up into the diff, hopefully far enough to get behind the fill plug.
Now take a 1/4" or whatever size fits the stripped out hole. Slowly drill a hole all the way through the damaged drain plug. Going slowly creates larger chips and that is a good thing.
use a larger EZ-out to remove the damaged drain plug. Once out, carefully and slowly remove the terry towel.
If you have it, use solvent and a spray gun to rinse the rest of the chips out of the diff housing. I've also done it with a can of carb cleaner and the little red straw. I wouldn't be to concerned about spraying the solvent or carb cleaner into the diff, this way, that way, every way to get all the debris out.
Inspect with a flashlight and finger to see if there is any debris left in the diff housing.
Nope? Put the drain plug in, put the 7.5 oz of Polaris Demand Drive lube in. and put the new fill/level plug in. 10 ft-lbs is plenty.
Drive around the neighborhood and make your neighbors crazy.

Get a clean drain pan. I like the clear plastic ones they sell at Office Depot. drain the lube into the pan.

Now pour the lube through a medium paint filter you get at the paint store.

Got any chips or debris in the bottom of the drain pan or filter?

If no, problem solved. Refill, put the plug in and go ride.

If a few chips or debris in the filter...fill with new lube, drive around, drain and check. Shouldn't take more than twice and you're good to go.
No chips, no debris and no solvent/carb cleaner left in the debris.
DONE!! no need to weld on your diff.

Pirate
 
#23 ·
So...Drsmitty...how did this plug get stripped? You drained the lube, and now trying to get the fill/level plug out? MmmmHmmm...so the factory or the dealer over tightened the plug??? I think I've read that in a couple of places on the forum...didn't believe any of them.

Back to the issue at hand.
Remove the drain plug. Use a long, small diameter screwdriver to push a clean 12" square terry towel up into the diff, hopefully far enough to get behind the fill plug.
Now take a 1/4" or whatever size fits the stripped out hole. Slowly drill a hole all the way through the damaged drain plug. Going slowly creates larger chips and that is a good thing.
use a larger EZ-out to remove the damaged drain plug. Once out, carefully and slowly remove the terry towel.
If you have it, use solvent and a spray gun to rinse the rest of the chips out of the diff housing. I've also done it with a can of carb cleaner and the little red straw. I wouldn't be to concerned about spraying the solvent or carb cleaner into the diff, this way, that way, every way to get all the debris out.
Inspect with a flashlight and finger to see if there is any debris left in the diff housing.
Nope? Put the drain plug in, put the 7.5 oz of Polaris Demand Drive lube in. and put the new fill/level plug in. 10 ft-lbs is plenty.
Drive around the neighborhood and make your neighbors crazy.

Get a clean drain pan. I like the clear plastic ones they sell at Office Depot. drain the lube into the pan.

Now pour the lube through a medium paint filter you get at the paint store.

Got any chips or debris in the bottom of the drain pan or filter?

If no, problem solved. Refill, put the plug in and go ride.

If a few chips or debris in the filter...fill with new lube, drive around, drain and check. Shouldn't take more than twice and you're good to go.
No chips, no debris and no solvent/carb cleaner left in the debris.
DONE!! no need to weld on your diff.

Pirate
First of all your sarcasm can be checked at the door. If you choose not believe me, that's your call. Your posts are usually helpful and informative. I bought this around 30hours and 300 miles. The previous owner could have replaced the oil, but I doubt it. Therefore as I said originally, this is the FIRST time I have changed it. It stripped when i used a Dewalt hammer drill with an 8mm hex socket. I removed the drain plug first with zero issues. You seem to suggest removing the drain plug first is not correct. Well, I would differ with you, but to each their own. I assume You have read what I have tried. I'm welding on a nut today to try and back it out.

Keep helping people with your posts, but how about not assuming someone is lying.



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#25 ·
By the way, if you had read my earlier post, I DID drill through and tried an EZ out. The EZ out snapped in the plug.

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#27 ·
This was directed at Pirate's comment.

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#29 ·
If we cant get a mig tip in the weld properly with screwing something up, then unfortunately, I'll have to pull the diff. My buddy has a set of those snap on extractors that we are going to try first.

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#31 ·
If we cant get a mig tip in the weld properly with screwing something up, then unfortunately, I'll have to pull the diff. My buddy has a set of those snap on extractors that we are going to try first.

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Good, I'm convinced that would be a good idea. They are truly amazing. By the way, a found my set on ebay used for $70. those are a good edition to any tool set.
 
#30 ·
If you could get that broken easyout-out I do like the idea that Rabbi had about sticking a bolt in the hole and then welding it. You wouldn't have to get it that hot. Maybe you can use a small chisel to unlodge the broken tip. Again all this might be easier having the diff on a bench. Good luck with what you try
 
#32 ·
Worse part is it is in such a "great" place to get at also.
Ours came from the factory also way too tight. Luckily i had the shop where we bought it do the first fluid change and i had them change both front and rear and the engine oil. Both the front and rear drain plugs were way over tightened from the factory and the tech fought them and finally both stripped out. Ended up using a Snap On easy out and got them both to come. He said he has run into this quite a bit coming from the factory back then in 2017. So it definitely does happen. Too many people just don't give a hoot or take pride in their work or their finished product nowadays. Just get it out the door and let someone else worry about it so it seems.
I just ordered these as they are in a set of 5 now.
 
#35 ·
As I said in my initial response to you, your posts are very helpful to a lot of people. Whether you respond to my posts in the future is up to you. I was just a little put off by you insinuating I was not forthcoming with the real story.

Thats all.

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#39 · (Edited)
Glad you found a solution to getting your stripped plug out. When I'm up against the wall with a problem, I stand back and consider all my options. That's where forums like this come into play. I'm fairly new to the sport of UTVing, but I've been involved in snowmobiling for decades and am a member of Hard Core Sledder, a very active forum for fellow snowmobilers. It's incredible how much great information you can get from being actively involved in them. I've learned a ton of information on this forum, and use it all the time.
 
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