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Discussion Starter #1
Started yesterday on installing the three piece skid set.

Doing my best to "read" the instructions first, then dive in.

Installed the rear skid, no problems. I will tell all that I am using Rivit Nuts at every fastener point to make remove the skid a piece of cake and the holes will never get damaged and the fasteners not hold.

So installed the four bolts called for in the instructions. Then discover I don't have the "extension bracket" required to tie the rear and main skids together. So having a PlasmaCam I just made my own out of 10ga hot rolled steel

Installing the main skid calls for putting in the three bolts in the center row plus the outer bolts that go through the "extension bracket". Well, the front hole doesn't line up with the threaded hole in the frame at all. So I made a triangular piece, bolted it to the frame and then drilled for the bolt, installed a Rivit Nut and good to go. Next was two bolts about half way to the outside and just about lined up with the center row, center bolt. One is out of line by almost 1/2" with the original threaded hole, the other lines up just right. Drilled one new hole and drilled out the aligned hole with a 3/8" drill. Then added Rivit Nuts and good to go.

At the end of today I got the driver's side three bolts in. The front hole aligns with a transition in the frame, so a bit hard to drill, but got it done and all three bolts installed.

D-clamps over the frame tubes at the front of the skid look to be a challenge. When D-clamp is over the frame tube, and the leg of the clamp help parallel to the top surface of the skid...there will be about a 3/4" gap between the D-clamp and top of skid. So planning to use longer bolts and a section of 1" 10ga tubing to keep the leg of the clamp and the top of the skid parallel to each other.

Have only test fit the front diff skid. Looks OK, but the rear bolts will have to be drilled, Rivit Nuts installed, then bolted. Then due to the Hilliard diff bolts and frame section that bulges out...I will have to use clamp to bend the skid up to the frame at the front and then drill and bolt. Need to do this so the bolts go in perpendicular to the skid.

Anyone else having these challenges installing the Factory UTV three piece skid set? I'm making mine work. Time consuming but coming out fine!!!

Pirate
 

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Started yesterday on installing the three piece skid set.

Doing my best to "read" the instructions first, then dive in.

Installed the rear skid, no problems. I will tell all that I am using Rivit Nuts at every fastener point to make remove the skid a piece of cake and the holes will never get damaged and the fasteners not hold.

So installed the four bolts called for in the instructions. Then discover I don't have the "extension bracket" required to tie the rear and main skids together. So having a PlasmaCam I just made my own out of 10ga hot rolled steel

Installing the main skid calls for putting in the three bolts in the center row plus the outer bolts that go through the "extension bracket". Well, the front hole doesn't line up with the threaded hole in the frame at all. So I made a triangular piece, bolted it to the frame and then drilled for the bolt, installed a Rivit Nut and good to go. Next was two bolts about half way to the outside and just about lined up with the center row, center bolt. One is out of line by almost 1/2" with the original threaded hole, the other lines up just right. Drilled one new hole and drilled out the aligned hole with a 3/8" drill. Then added Rivit Nuts and good to go.

At the end of today I got the driver's side three bolts in. The front hole aligns with a transition in the frame, so a bit hard to drill, but got it done and all three bolts installed.

D-clamps over the frame tubes at the front of the skid look to be a challenge. When D-clamp is over the frame tube, and the leg of the clamp help parallel to the top surface of the skid...there will be about a 3/4" gap between the D-clamp and top of skid. So planning to use longer bolts and a section of 1" 10ga tubing to keep the leg of the clamp and the top of the skid parallel to each other.

Have only test fit the front diff skid. Looks OK, but the rear bolts will have to be drilled, Rivit Nuts installed, then bolted. Then due to the Hilliard diff bolts and frame section that bulges out...I will have to use clamp to bend the skid up to the frame at the front and then drill and bolt. Need to do this so the bolts go in perpendicular to the skid.

Anyone else having these challenges installing the Factory UTV three piece skid set? I'm making mine work. Time consuming but coming out fine!!!

Pirate

Mine went together pretty smooth. I did have one bolt hole that didn't line up well in the front, but it was only off 1/8"-3/16". I ended up making it work and the cup washer sank into the recessed hole.


The D-clamps are a bit challenging. They were also challenging with the a-arm guards. My solution was to turn them sideways first, put the bolt through the skid and mount, hand tighten the nut, then turn the D-clamps and lift them over the chassis tube. Once I tightened them down it was perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Paul,

Much like you my real issue was the forward bolt in the center row. It was off by about 1/4". So I cut a triangle of 10 ga steel. Used screws to hold it to the front frame cross pieces, then used the domed washer to center where the hole should be, drilled a 3/16" hole, then open it to 3/8" and put in a Rivit Nut. Done.

There are three holes on each side of the Main skid that bolt to the outer rectangular tube frame member. The forward hole on each side needs to be moved to the rear about 3/8" as the way it is now...one is drilling through a weld location where, I believe, the frame round tube connects to the rectangular tube running to the rear.

As it is one is drilling right through the weld heat affected zone, so the material is "harder", and you risk not getting a usable hole because the material is not consistently flat.

I wound up using a stack of three 1/8" thick washers between the skid and the D-clamp at all four locations at the front of the main skid. The Main skid won't pull up to the frame tube due to the "tongue & groove" fit between the Main skid and the Front Diff skid. So the stack of washers keeps the D-clamp leg horizontal to the skid and the "D" portion fully engaged with the frame tube.

When installing the Front Diff skid, Get the tongue & groove fit aligned between Main skid and Diff skid, then install the two rear bolts. Now use a clamp to flex the Diff skid up against the bottom of the frame, and then drill the holes and install the front bolts. Not doing so will leave one with very misaligned bolts at the front of the skid.

Bought the 3/8" UHMW rear A-arm guards. Started with the Passenger side. Put in the right front screw...and none of the others lined up, all three were more than a half hole out of alignment. So used a burr to open the holes to line up...but that sort of ruins the tapered bolt holding the guard firmly in place. So moved to the Driver's side. Hmmm...all the holes lined up, bolts went in just fine. Thinking I may ask for a replacement Passenger side. Maybe mine was just messed up when the holes were drilled???

Every bolt on my three piece skid set, except the four D-clamps, has a 1/4x20 Rivit Nut. So no more ruined bolt holes over time, and I can get the Main skid off in about 10 minutes. Just found Rivit nuts this Winter, fabulous little things!!!

Pirate
 

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Paul,

There are three holes on each side of the Main skid that bolt to the outer rectangular tube frame member. The forward hole on each side needs to be moved to the rear about 3/8" as the way it is now...one is drilling through a weld location where, I believe, the frame round tube connects to the rectangular tube running to the rear.
I installed the rock sliders as well, which doesn't line up with those three holes in the skid plate they are back far enough to avoid the issue with the weld.

Bought the 3/8" UHMW rear A-arm guards. Started with the Passenger side. Put in the right front screw...and none of the others lined up, all three were more than a half hole out of alignment. So used a burr to open the holes to line up...but that sort of ruins the tapered bolt holding the guard firmly in place. So moved to the Driver's side. Hmmm...all the holes lined up, bolts went in just fine. Thinking I may ask for a replacement Passenger side. Maybe mine was just messed up when the holes were drilled???
I think I have your passenger side. Lol. My driver side fit perfect but had minor issues with the passenger side. I stripped a bolt trying to force it. I didn't drill or burr anything. I put a floor jack under the guard to hold it up tight. Then I managed to get each bolt in with a single thread on the nut to hold it. Then I was able to get everything in place.
 

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Hey guys, this past weekend i was pulled out of a mud bog from the rear.....and well my factory atv rear skid was bent down about four inches from the mud. id suggest adding a few more bolts close to the hitch area.
 

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Thanks for the heads up, Viper. I've been thinking about getting that skid plate.
Its a great skid plate, just think it was a slight oversight on there part. Most might not be in the kind of mud i was nor getting winched out from the rear. Its was really bent down after the pullout, i said f-it im riding forward from here and it got better. I'll be adding more screws before next outing.
 

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Mine are the two piece skids (no sliders) i have the polaris kick out rock sliders. My kick outs are beat to f**k(so they are doing their job perfectly!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Having struggled with my Factory UTV three piece skid set, and spending quite a bit of time on the phone with the folks at Factory UTV....

Methinks they got their hands on one, took measurements best they could...and started cranking them out.

Just doesn't seem to be the very well designed product as in the past.

I'll bet they get there tho!! But do as I am, and let 'em know the problems you're having.

Pirate
 
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