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Discussion Starter #1
On our 17 General Ride Command at 4,000 rpm to just about 5,000 it started surging awhile ago and the stupid thing is it doesn't do it all the time. Really notice it going down hill and then it will do it on the flat or going up a hill. Does it in low and high range. Clutches are clean and belt was changed to see if that was it and it wasn't. You hit 5,000 RPM and it smooths right out. Like i said it doesn't do it constantly but when it does you sure notice it. Gives you the jerking and you back off or accelerate and it quits. NO codes either. Darn irritating.
Tried Sea Foam didn't fix it.
Used contact cleaner on the foot feed electronics and then put in Di-electric grease and didn't fix it either. Never used to do it so something isn't right. Just put in a new ECU with the Gilomen tune and that didn't fix it either.
Could it be the electronic sensor on the foot feed?
Guessing i am not the only one this has happened too.
If it has happened to you let me know what cured it if you would be so kind!
 

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From what you state I think your correct on it being in the drive bye wire side either pedal or throttle side I would guess the pedal would look into ways to check it maybe with a ohm meter will look into it let me know if you find anything Good luck!
 

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Some other things to look at,
Spark plugs, gap correct, good colour, no gunk across insulator.
Fuel, if you fill up from same place it could be a bad batch.(low octane)
Negative terminal on frame could be loose or corrosion between the tags, might as well check the positive leads as well.
Any new accessories put on around when it started to play up, pinched wire.
When it plays up has the car just hit a bump or anything to pinch a wire?
Then there's the wiggle test of wires & connections, get someone to bring the rev's up & get in the back & wiggle wires to simulate problem.
Intermittent electrical problems are the pits.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Still doing it occasionally just like before. Sometimes it bucks and next time you ride it it doesn't.
We have changed the foot pedal, new plugs, Polaris said it was the fuel pump so changed that, tried 3 different clutch sets and 1 was DuraClutch and still no change, changed map sensor.
It starts and idles fine, when it acts up it is around 4,000 to 4,500 rpms. When driving you can sometimes feel a hard bucking and the next time just little bucks, then again it won't do it. Notice it more going down hill for sure if it is doing it. Sometimes on flat ground also but always at the stated rpms. If just sitting still and bringing the rpms up to the range you can hear a little fluttering in the engine at least i think it is and a buddy listened yesterday and he said the same thing. I even sprayed the outside of the plastic intake with ether to see if it would speed the engine up if the intake had a slight crack in it but nothing changed.
Usually it is worse at first start up until it warms up but NOT always.
Had it to 3 different Polaris shops and either they said that is the way it is, or nothing is wrong, or that is the engine braking doing it.
We also took out the 1 way bearing out of the primary clutch and put in a 2 way and this did help on the super hard bucking but still does it.
I really think it is in the electrical side of things as i said you can hear a slight fluttering when bringing up the rpms to that range. You go higher or lower and it doesn't flutter at all. This is getting to be a pain in the butt believe me. It also throws NO codes at all.
If still living in NoDak i would have taken it over to Terry Gilomen and he would find it one way or the other and might still have to do that this summer. That or it is going to get traded off. It is a 17 G2 Ride Command it didn't do it until last spring or summer. This machine is clean and it has been babied it whole life. Never abused and most of the miles are in town driving under 25 mph as we usually just putz! High or low range it does it.
Any one run into this before? Open to suggestions on something we haven't tried yet. Battery is good and positive and negative connections and grounds are good. Everything else works just like the day we got it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Been wondering IF the fuel injectors could do this only at the rpms where it acts up?
Tried Sea Foam and no change.
I think there is around 1500 miles or so on it.
 

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I have about 1000 miles on a 2019 general -4 1000. Also did a clutch kit (springs weights) to have a lower low and a high gear I can use at slower desert speeds.

When I run the General on the pavement in low it does buck between 4k and 5k rpm. However, once it’s under load, off the pavement, out of turf mode and in AWD - running over rocky trails around 10mph/4000 rpm it smooths out... really performs very smoothly crawling over the desert.

Not sure if you are operating on roads or trails? I wonder if that makes a difference? Also, you mentioned you really notice it going downhill. When the General ‘engine brake’ (not sure how the brake works) engages on steep downhills I need to accelerate to have it release. It tends to buck in those scenarios as well.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ours does it whether in turf, 2 wd, or AWD.
Trails or roads does it too.
Head scratcher!
 

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You know....I think I would take the air cleaner ducting off the throttle body inlet side. Look and see if there is any dust build up ahead of the throttle body butterfly.
Then have someone step on the go pedal and look through the butterfly and see if there is any dust behind the butterfly and then mud past the throttle body.
If there is, then take the duct off the intake manifold and look into the manifold towards the intake valves. Covered with mud? If so you motor has probably already
been "dusted".
And you noise and bucking is the motor dying.

Been there, done that, didn't get a T-shirt. Something to inspect.

Doesn't take that much time, but well worth it.

Pirate
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Will have to check that out. Can't believe that could be it as most of the miles are in town on pavement. But who knows stranger things have happened!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Duct tubing is all clean and so is the butterfly.
Little bit of oily residue in duct tubing and i mean very little and i imagine that is coming from the PCV system. So just to be sure i took out the map sensor and spray/cleaned that. I replaced the original map sensor before this also.
It runs and idles fine except in the 4-4500 range somewhere. Doesn't do it all the time either.
So back to square one.
 

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Duct tubing is all clean and so is the butterfly.
Little bit of oily residue in duct tubing and i mean very little and i imagine that is coming from the PCV system. So just to be sure i took out the map sensor and spray/cleaned that. I replaced the original map sensor before this also.
It runs and idles fine except in the 4-4500 range somewhere. Doesn't do it all the time either.
So back to square one.
Were you able to figure anything out? We are having the same issue with our 17.???
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Were you able to figure anything out? We are having the same issue with our 17.???
No nothing yet. If we do we will surely post the results and hoping someone else would do the same.
 

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Johnny
I know you said the fuel pump was changed out but did you change the fuel pump filter sock on the end of the fuel pump? I had this same problem on my RZR XP1000, bucking and no code showing up. Changed the filter sock and it was all good
Just my two pesos worth
Baja Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Johnny
I know you said the fuel pump was changed out but did you change the fuel pump filter sock on the end of the fuel pump? I had this same problem on my RZR XP1000, bucking and no code showing up. Changed the filter sock and it was all good
Just my two pesos worth
Baja Charlie
Yep they changed the whole works. They even changed the fuel tank too as for some weird reason Polaris said they didn't have the pump so they sent the pump and tank all in one.
So it is a head scratcher. The fuel pressure shows right up to snuff. Can't remember what it is suppose to read but if i recall it is 56-58 pounds and it was right there the last time we had the gauge on the fuel rail.
I did buy an after market fuel pump and might have to put that on just to try it and see if that makes a difference. Someone on here had posted a link to the after market fuel pumps and i ordered one and some extra socks for the pump too.
 

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Ok guys I finally had some time Sunday to dig into my bucking issues..... I found on our machine we had a broken bolt that held a clutch weight in the clutch. We were able to replace the bolt and everything seems good again. 8500 miles on what we think is the original clutch. I did read you had tried a few different clutch set ups so not sure our find will help you.

Good luck Jonny 7
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok guys I finally had some time Sunday to dig into my bucking issues..... I found on our machine we had a broken bolt that held a clutch weight in the clutch. We were able to replace the bolt and everything seems good again. 8500 miles on what we think is the original clutch. I did read you had tried a few different clutch set ups so not sure our find will help you.

Good luck Jonny 7
Thanks for the info but i couldn't get that lucky.
 

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Ok guys I finally had some time Sunday to dig into my bucking issues..... I found on our machine we had a broken bolt that held a clutch weight in the clutch. We were able to replace the bolt and everything seems good again. 8500 miles on what we think is the original clutch. I did read you had tried a few different clutch set ups so not sure our find will help you.

Good luck Jonny 7
I keep thinking this is a drive line issue. My 17 does this, too. Intermittent. Feels like a drive belt that has been "hour glassed" so warn more in some areas that others. Possibly a result of the clutch slipping on a wet belt, or not getting on the gas enough for a good solid engagement or ?. That would be the case if it was on a sled [which uses the exact same concept of CVT]. bought a new belt, have yet to install. But that's what I'm thinking. Clutching issue. Will also do a close inspection of the clutches.
 
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