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Is your spider nut backed off some?
 
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Discussion Starter #23
I'm not running tracks, when this belt went I was only doing short runs. The clutches are over shifting even with the white spacer, I've got 1 belt left and im not buying more. tried about every possible thing at this point.
I think the thing to do is take my primary off, smash it to pieces with a sludge hammer and quite waisting time and money fixing a dead horse.
 

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View attachment 68346 View attachment 68345


Belt has about 50 miles on it, temp was around 170 when this happened. The white spacer had About 100 miles on it, notice how much grooving it has compared to a new one.
There's more issues going on and I'm 100% over it. At this rate I could just buy a duraclutch and be saving money. And a ton of time!
The only time I had consistently lower belt temps was really because it was -5 outside.
Wow, what brand of belt is that? that delaminated at the core ..... also weather permitting can you take a short video with the cover off at the RPM range that your having trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Wow, what brand of belt is that? that delaminated at the core ..... also weather permitting can you take a short video with the cover off at the RPM range that your having trouble.
Thats nothing you should see the other 15 belts i destroyed.
But this wasn't a belt issue its the clutches, I've ran without the cover before to see what the clutches are doing, thats when I noticed the belt almost coming off the primary. Thought it was fixed with the oversized spacer, but I guess not.
 

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When you say the belt is almost coming off the primary, is that because the primary is closing so much that the belt is that far out or is it trying to jump out of there?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The primary is closing too far, I know this is a complete hack "fix" but hopefully I'll be getting duraclutches soon. That and smaller lighter tires should solve my issues. Or at least I hope so. Otherwise this general is going to the scrap yard.
 

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The primary is closing too far, I know this is a complete hack "fix" but hopefully I'll be getting duraclutches soon. That and smaller lighter tires should solve my issues. Or at least I hope so. Otherwise this general is going to the scrap yard.
Don't give up on it! It definitely sounds like your primary has some serious issues. Pull it, smash it to pieces to make yourself feel better and then get a new primary. LOL
 
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Discussion Starter #30
Ser
Don't give up on it! It definitely sounds like your primary has some serious issues. Pull it, smash it to pieces to make yourself feel better and then get a new primary. LOL
Seriously!!
It's be so much cheaper than therapy.
Maybe I'll swap tires next week and see what it does. The mechanic at the dealership already said its just too much for the clutches. So either driving style, tire size or gearing has to change.
Would be awesome to be able to only gear down the H. But if I did any more gear reduction I'd be way too slow in L.
 

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I have a similar issue. Six months ago I bought a 2018 General 4 from a good friend of mine. I know it was well taken care of and he made several upgrades. It has 30% gear reduction in front and rear diff. Lifted and running 33" BKT's. No programmer or flashed ECU. I live in Southeast Texas and mostly trail ride with some mud. I have went through two OEM belts in 6 months and I am not an aggressive driver. Most recently the belt would not disengage while idling In gear. I pulled it apart and the needle bearing on the primary does not roll smooth so I am getting ready to change it out.

My issue is, with the gear reduction, I have to get it over 7000 rpm's for 4-5 seconds to get up to a comfortable cruising speed of 25 mph. Then I can lower the RPM because the clutch adjusted. If I go WOT from a slow roll it hits the rev limiter immediately. Top speed is 58.

I don't understand why he went with a 30% gear reduction with only a 10% larger tire. I am leaning towards a clutch kit with heavier weights so it will engage faster and possibly a ECU flash or programmer. What are your thoughts?

I had a Yamaha Rhino for 10+ years and it still has the original belt, so this is a little frustrating.
 

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I have a similar issue. Six months ago I bought a 2018 General 4 from a good friend of mine. I know it was well taken care of and he made several upgrades. It has 30% gear reduction in front and rear diff. Lifted and running 33" BKT's. No programmer or flashed ECU. I live in Southeast Texas and mostly trail ride with some mud. I have went through two OEM belts in 6 months and I am not an aggressive driver. Most recently the belt would not disengage while idling In gear. I pulled it apart and the needle bearing on the primary does not roll smooth so I am getting ready to change it out.

My issue is, with the gear reduction, I have to get it over 7000 rpm's for 4-5 seconds to get up to a comfortable cruising speed of 25 mph. Then I can lower the RPM because the clutch adjusted. If I go WOT from a slow roll it hits the rev limiter immediately. Top speed is 58.

I don't understand why he went with a 30% gear reduction with only a 10% larger tire. I am leaning towards a clutch kit with heavier weights so it will engage faster and possibly a ECU flash or programmer. What are your thoughts?

I had a Yamaha Rhino for 10+ years and it still has the original belt, so this is a little frustrating.
10% increase? 27 to 33 is closer to 20% and still too much gearing but sounds like you might have an actual clutch issue not just a setting issue. Does yours have a clutch kit in it now?
 

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10% increase? 27 to 33 is closer to 20% and still too much gearing but sounds like you might have an actual clutch issue not just a setting issue. Does yours have a clutch kit in it now?
I though stock size was 29", you are right. I spoke to the previous owner and he said it is completely stock clutches. I did notice it had round sliders on the secondary. Were the stock sliders round in 2018? I have seen several videos that show square sliders. (picture of my secondary below)

Should it not hit the rev limiter with heavy acceleration, or is that common with the gear reduction? Do you think a clutch kit would improve performance given my setup?
68530
 

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I though stock size was 29", you are right. I spoke to the previous owner and he said it is completely stock clutches. I did notice it had round sliders on the secondary. Were the stock sliders round in 2018? I have seen several videos that show square sliders. (picture of my secondary below)

Should it not hit the rev limiter with heavy acceleration, or is that common with the gear reduction? Do you think a clutch kit would improve performance given my setup? View attachment 68530

Pretty sure that is not the stock clutch, does not appear the square were replaced with round, appears that clutch came with them and is the retro style from Team. A 18 secondary does not look like that either where the bolt goes in, that is some kind of large flat washer. And all 16 and newer have square pucks from factory.

Also, no such thing as having 30% gear reduction in front and rear diffs, it is either in the tranny or has portal gears at each wheel with a lift

You might want to email me all this info and let me get you straightened out [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I was wondering about the gear reduction in the diffs 😆
Sounds very similar to my clutches. Just constant slipping the primary. No amount of tuning seems to make much difference.
I'm getting a used duraclutch that just got a fresh rebuild from duraclutch with stickers in it.
Todd I'll Send you my stock primary if you want to look at it, maybe there's something worn or off that nubs like me are overlooking?
Also would changing to a shallower ramp in helix cause any belt slipping, or is that only effecting shift?
 

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I was wondering about the gear reduction in the diffs 😆
Sounds very similar to my clutches. Just constant slipping the primary. No amount of tuning seems to make much difference.
I'm getting a used duraclutch that just got a fresh rebuild from duraclutch with stickers in it.
Todd I'll Send you my stock primary if you want to look at it, maybe there's something worn or off that nubs like me are overlooking?
Also would changing to a shallower ramp in helix cause any belt slipping, or is that only effecting shift?
Shows how much know LOL. I knew the guy tried to spin the tires with the rear diff locked. One tire on the pavement and one on the grass. Needless to say the rear diff didn't like it and broke into several pieces. When he got the new diff is when he had the gear reduction done. I assumed the gear reduction was in the diff. :geek:
 
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