Polaris General Forum banner

Which arched a arms?

  • HL (front only)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • SATV (front only)

    Votes: 1 20.0%
  • HL (front and rear)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • SATV (front and rear)

    Votes: 4 80.0%

  • Total voters
    5
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have reached a little dilemma. First a description of my setup

2017 deluxe
30x10x14 GBC Grimm reapers on 4+3 beadlocks (measure very close to 30 @ 9psi)
3” Lift
mudbusters flares
front sway bar removed

i am getting just a little rub when turning and going up a hill at the same time. It did it both with and without the sway bar. It’s driving me nuts. I haven’t had it to the trail with the bar removed yet, but I imagine that it will be worse. It does rub on the little “trial hill” I have at my house.

so I guess I am heading down the arched a arm path. I would hope that the 1.5” forward will solve the rub. I’ve read all of the threads and am still torn between SATV and HL.

here are my questions for those with experience

for SATV
are the camber adjustment points ending up to be weak points? Any failures there? How are the included bushings? Any more on the fitment issues? I am right at the cutoff year so knowing my luck, I will have whatever frame spacing that is opposite to the arm I purchase.

for HL
the SATV arms look a little beefier, especially in the rear. Any issues with durability? Any issues with camber because they aren’t adjustable? i know the SATV arms require rhino axles in the rear, are there any failures with the stock axles in the rear on the HL arms? Will the SATV bushing kit fits the HL arms?

for both
i have trail armor a arm guards for the stockers. Does either of the designs look like I can cut them and reattach to the arched version? Do both require cutting the front boot protector? Is it really necessarily worth it to do the rears, or should I just save the cash there? I know the rears have nothing to do with my problem, but I don’t want significantly different capability front and rear.

price is pretty close
HL - 1200 with HL ball joints and SATV UHMW bushings
SATV - 1300 with All Balls ball joints and rhino axles

thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
420 Posts
I have Super ATV 1.5 offset front and HL 1.5 offset rears honestly I do not think I would do the rears if I had to do all over again. You really don’t gain much arm clearance with the rears but the fronts for sure.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
364 Posts
If you go with both from us, you know we'll have you covered all the way around.
If you're worried about the front arm fitment, here's the best way to know which year to choose to make sure it matches your frame.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
770 Posts
Just know that although SATV implies their rear arms are set correctly from the factory, they are not even close. Took 4 full turns in to get mine right. Wore out a set of bearings in the mean time from the camber.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
364 Posts
^^^^ That's true. They're set to Polaris' showroom floor frame design specs, but frame to frame variations make it nearly impossible to be perfect on every single frame. Some adjustment may be necessary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Looks like I am right at 15.5”. I’ll snag a picture tomorrow during the day and grab a couple more measurements. Maybe I’ll pull one side to measure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I am sort of in the same boat, need a new set of A-Arms (my factory arm is now pie shaped). I am also with a 2017, measured my frame tab width at close to 14", seems way under 15.5" but I am guessing 2016 version are what I want to go with? How much under 15.5" are the 2016 versions?
Also do people push the front forward and not do anything with the back arms?



If you go with both from us, you know we'll have you covered all the way around.
If you're worried about the front arm fitment, here's the best way to know which year to choose to make sure it matches your frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I am sort of in the same boat, need a new set of A-Arms (my factory arm is now pie shaped). I am also with a 2017, measured my frame tab width at close to 14", seems way under 15.5" but I am guessing 2016 version are what I want to go with? How much under 15.5" are the 2016 versions?
Also do people push the front forward and not do anything with the back arms?
I think you’re measuring the lower arm. The upper arm is the measurement in question. So far it looks like the poll is leaning towards doing all four corners with SATV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Here is my image. It would appear that I am just over 15.5” so I would assume I would need the 2017+ arms? Anyone have any idea how far the sway bar mounts move on the forward offset arms? I’m thinking I may use that as a mounting point for limit straps.

65892
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I think you’re measuring the lower arm. The upper arm is the measurement in question. So far it looks like the poll is leaning towards doing all four corners with SATV.
Doh! not the first time I have skipped over the words and only looked at the picture. Thanks for setting me straight. Good luck with your upgrade, I will be watching with interest.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
364 Posts
Here is my image. It would appear that I am just over 15.5” so I would assume I would need the 2017+ arms? Anyone have any idea how far the sway bar mounts move on the forward offset arms? I’m thinking I may use that as a mounting point for limit straps.
I've never really seen anyone mount the limit strap there. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but it may twist. Personally, I'd recommend the standard mounting location down at the shock mount with just a longer bolt and a spacer. But...****, it could work there. Just never seen it done. The sway bar mount would still be in the same general location as the stock arms. Just moved back to be at the same spot and same angle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I've never really seen anyone mount the limit strap there. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but it may twist. Personally, I'd recommend the standard mounting location down at the shock mount with just a longer bolt and a spacer. But...****, it could work there. Just never seen it done. The sway bar mount would still be in the same general location as the stock arms. Just moved back to be at the same spot and same angle.
I think i'm going to pull the trigger on the 2017+ arms and the HD ball joints. I will leave them uninstalled in case i have to exchange the arms. I have a hand ball joint tool and a shop press to install them. with them both being new, it should be a breeze unless there is excess powder coat in the hole. You wouldn't happen to be doing any sales for the holiday, would you?

I'll order the straps later when I can measure the new arms to the bracket mount bolt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Bought the SATV front and rear arms last year and havent installed them yet cause not sure if I need axles for both front and rear since theyre both 1.5 over? And what about ball joints? do I really need to upgrade them too?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,918 Posts
@Skipperup you don't need to change the axles on the front, but they are recommended for the rear. I've seen a good many people transfer their stock ball joints over to the new arms. Been a while since I installed fronts only, but Im pretty sure I used All Balls ball joints in mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Ordered a arms and SATV HD ball joints on the holiday sale. Still a little unsure about the length of limit strap that I want. I’m measuring about 17 at ride height and about 18 at full droop.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
364 Posts
Ordered a arms and SATV HD ball joints on the holiday sale. Still a little unsure about the length of limit strap that I want. I’m measuring about 17 at ride height and about 18 at full droop.
You'll need that full droop number. Shock has to be measured from eye to eye at full drop. We go about 1.5" to 2" shorter than that measurement. So....your eye to eye is 18 at full drop....so you would order 16".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
BTW for those who may be wondering, i thing i may have solved the rub. I had mudbusters on the wheel wells after installing 4+3 wheels with the 30" reapers. i measured the distance from the wheel to the closest point and got about 3.5 inches. you could see that is where it was rubbing slightly. When i pulled them off, the area is wide open, so there is no way it would rub. I put the polaris XL wide fenders on and measured the same point, now at 5+ inches. i dont think that i will be rubbing anymore, but am still putting on the forward a arms for the camber adjustment.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top