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2021 Polaris XP-4 General
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a problem yesterday when driving my General XP4 with four people. As I was getting to the trails on the road it seemed I was limited to only go 55-ish. I had no problem on the trails since I rarely got over 40 MPH. It seemed like it had some sort of limiter on it the speed (it was slightly hestating like a fuel problem) that I have never seen before. Normally I am in the General by myself and this was only the second time since I purchased it that I had four people in it. Any initial thoughts? I am going to take the clutch cover off and see if there is anything obvious with the clutches. I had just replaced both clutches so do not anticipate there is any issues there. Has anybody had a problem with a clogged fuel filter that may have caused this? I only run 87 octane in the engine and never had any problem. For those interested I have 130 hrs on the engine with 2176 miles. Your ideas are appreciated.
 

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2021 General XP 4 ride command super graphite
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Definitely sounds like a belt/clutch issue or bad fuel. I have the same machine and have had 4 people in it a couple times and had no problem getting into the mid 60's and topped out at 71 on an old logging road. This is with stock everything except for hunterworks belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One thing I forgot to mention is that I do have a Dalton high elevation clutch kit. I had install that in the replacement clutches, took it out for a ride, and easily got up to 70 mph (by myself). So something has happened between then which is only a few weeks ago and now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you heard or experienced this result from the primary spider nut coming loose? I know before when I was driving for distances and maintaining 50 to 60 mph, I periodically had RPM increases (belt loosing grip) but I also found that I had a belt going bad. I would hate to tear my primary apart if I didn’t have to.
 

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It worked good after you put in the clutch kit when you rode it by yourself?
Spider nut or a ramp or weight hanging up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It worked good after you put in the clutch kit when you rode it by yourself?
Spider nut or a ramp or weight hanging up?
I pulled the clutch cover off yesterday and there was quite a bit of dust that I blew off (J always blow the dust off after every ride). I put my fingers around the primary clutch but would have to pull it to see if they were any weights hung up. I did talk to a friend who said to start with the spark plugs, then move to the fuel pump, then have somebody check The valve clearances on the intake. Geesh
 

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Before doing all that, take it out by yourself to see if it gets to speed with no passengers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It worked good after you put in the clutch kit when you rode it by yourself?
Spider nut or a ramp or weight hanging up?
I pulled the clutch cover off yesterday and there was quite a bit of dust that I blew off (J always blow the dust off after every ride). I put my fingers around the primary clutch but would have to pull it to see if they were any weights hung up. I did talk to a friend who said to start with the spark plugs, then move to the fuel pump, then have somebody check The valve clearances on the intake. Geesh
Before doing all that, take it out by yourself to see if it gets to speed with no passengers.
Good point…minimize the variables…going to do that today and will report back. What are you thinking?
 

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I'm curious as to why you changed the clutches at a bit over 2000 miles.
Do you blow the dust out frequently? If not, it's an abrasive an a clutch killer.

Moving from 1 person to 4 people in a 110hp machine is definitely going to make a difference in top speed.

Just sayin'
Pirate
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm curious as to why you changed the clutches at a bit over 2000 miles.
Do you blow the dust out frequently? If not, it's an abrasive an a clutch killer.

Moving from 1 person to 4 people in a 110hp machine is definitely going to make a difference in top speed.

Just sayin'
Pirate
My clutch problems have been numerous since I bought the machine a year ago. I have blown at least four belts, pulled the primary apart to re-torque the spider and spider nut, and still was getting a lot of heat. Finally the primary broke internally with 2 weights stuck and part of the casing on the slider broke) and I purchased another primary and secondary that only had 300 miles on it (recently). I did this because Todd felt both clutches were very suspect with the excessive heat I have had since I have on the machine so replace both. I also checked the alignment between the two clutches (something Todd at Hunterworks said could be causing the excessive heat) and found it off about 1/32 of an inch off. I realigned them before using my new replacement clutches and took it out for a few rides and have been monitoring the internal temp with my clutch belt infrared temp gauge…all good. I am surmising that clutches were not in line from day one which was generating the excessive heat which is the probable cause of my belts breaking. This is why I am now speculating that I may have a fuel problem versus a clutch problem. Like I said earlier, I took the general out after the clutch realignment and installed with the Dalton clutch kit and everything worked perfectly including top speed and RPM expectations. Sorry for the long note… Had to summarize the history.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm curious as to why you changed the clutches at a bit over 2000 miles.
Do you blow the dust out frequently? If not, it's an abrasive an a clutch killer.

Moving from 1 person to 4 people in a 110hp machine is definitely going to make a difference in top speed.

Just sayin'
Pirate
Funny I didn’t answer your question… yes I blow the dust off of the clutches and clean the air filter after each ride
 

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If the gas was/is bad you would think it would be kicking and bucking.
You could try some Sea Foam, great stuff for cleaning injectors and fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just got done with a test drive and the condition has not changed. In high gear around 60 mph it just starts sputtering a little and seems like there’s a limiter on it. I also went to low and you can hear the engine sputtering a lot more when it gets closer to 30 mph. I’m going to check the spark plugs and then?
 

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Clean the map sensor. But get a can of map sensor cleaner and use it. Make sure the little green O-rings don't get damaged.

Make sure the air cleaner filter element is clean. If anything, use a shop vac from a couple of inches away to suck the dust off the outside. Look for tan spots on the inside. See any? new filter element

By this time of year you should be able to get "winterized" fuel. It helps a bit.

Fuel pump test good? When the machine has been sitting overnight, and you turn the key to "ON" the first time, you should hear a whine as the fuel pump brings the fuel rail up to pressure.

You can get the GM/Chrysler adapter for the fitting on the fuel rail and test it pretty easily. Should be

Make sure the fuel tank vent hose isn't plugged and is up out of the way and the open end tilted down in a U.

Pull one plug at at time. But first, clean all the garbage out of the indent in the cylinder head. Yes, despite the sparkplug wire design. There will still be all kinds of debris and water in there.
use carb cleaner, a shop vac (you can tape a piece of 3/8" clear tubing into the nozzle and then tape off the rest of the nozzle, 6" Q-tips, and get things really clean. Then pull the plug. Right
now, plugs are hard to come by. So be careful.

That's about what I can think of at this time.

Pirate
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Fuel pumps and fuel filters were problematic in certain years. With troubleshooting, always go with the most recent change and work backwards.
Thx…I called
Clean the map sensor. But get a can of map sensor cleaner and use it. Make sure the little green O-rings don't get damaged.

Make sure the air cleaner filter element is clean. If anything, use a shop vac from a couple of inches away to suck the dust off the outside. Look for tan spots on the inside. See any? new filter element

By this time of year you should be able to get "winterized" fuel. It helps a bit.

Fuel pump test good? When the machine has been sitting overnight, and you turn the key to "ON" the first time, you should hear a whine as the fuel pump brings the fuel rail up to pressure.

You can get the GM/Chrysler adapter for the fitting on the fuel rail and test it pretty easily. Should be

Make sure the fuel tank vent hose isn't plugged and is up out of the way and the open end tilted down in a U.

Pull one plug at at time. But first, clean all the garbage out of the indent in the cylinder head. Yes, despite the sparkplug wire design. There will still be all kinds of debris and water in there.
use carb cleaner, a shop vac (you can tape a piece of 3/8" clear tubing into the nozzle and then tape off the rest of the nozzle, 6" Q-tips, and get things really clean. Then pull the plug. Right
now, plugs are hard to come by. So be careful.

That's about what I can think of at this time.

Pirate
Great ideas. I just got done checking the output of the fuel pump and it was right on the money… 58 psi.

I do not know anything about this map sensor or where to find it. In the mean time I can check my air filter…usually blow that out along with the clutches after every ride. May be over this past year it has gotten so bad that even after I clean it it’s not allowing air to come through?
I can easily check the vent on top of the gas tank to make sure it’s not clogged.
Thanks again for the ideas… Keep them coming!
 

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Oh, BAD Raptor88...never, ever blow out the air filter element. It promptly makes tears in the filter material. Next thing you know dust gets through, next thing you know the intake ports are coated in
a thick layer of a "mud" of gas and dust, "mud" gets into the cylinders, the piston and cylinder walls get scored big time, the mud gets into the crankcase, then into the oil system. Next thing you know you hear the pounding of the rods and the crank. And I got to keep the crank case...everything else was trash and had to be replaced and it was a RZR 800 Holz Stage III motor. I wasn't blowing out the air filter. And to this day I have no idea how the dust got past the air filter. Maybe it was using a NAPA Gold air filter? But if you use compressed air to blow through an air filter element it will tear the filter media, dust will get through it and you're liable to have the fun I did!
Don't go there!
Pirate
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Oh, BAD Raptor88...never, ever blow out the air filter element. It promptly makes tears in the filter material. Next thing you know dust gets through, next thing you know the intake ports are coated in
a thick layer of a "mud" of gas and dust, "mud" gets into the cylinders, the piston and cylinder walls get scored big time, the mud gets into the crankcase, then into the oil system. Next thing you know you hear the pounding of the rods and the crank. And I got to keep the crank case...everything else was trash and had to be replaced and it was a RZR 800 Holz Stage III motor. I wasn't blowing out the air filter. And to this day I have no idea how the dust got past the air filter. Maybe it was using a NAPA Gold air filter? But if you use compressed air to blow through an air filter element it will tear the filter media, dust will get through it and you're liable to have the fun I did!
Don't go there!
Pirate
Maybe I start with a new air filter!
 
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